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Discussion Starter #1
So today my key fob starting acting funny. I would press the lock and unlock button, but nothing would happen. After pressing it a few times, it would finally work every now and then. No big deal, I chocked it all up to a dead battery. The thing I found weird was that I still had really good range when it did work, but it only worked intermittently.

So I went inside and got my other fob, the brand new one I've never used...and the same thing happened! I'm wondering if it has something to do with my truck and not the fob?! Anyone?!
 

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The unused one has an equally aged battery. May not be used but doesn't mean not dying too. Go buy one battery and try it, if it works go back in and buy another one.

Clint
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Brand new battery in both key fobs. Still the same thing. I stand there alternately clicking each fob. After clicking about 10 times each with no response, the truck will finally beep and lock. Then both fobs work for a while.

This is leading me to believe it is something to do with the truck and not the fob. Anyone know what I should look for?
 

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there once lived a man named clint...everyone called him the great mountain of wisdom
Looks like I need to rethink my wisdom on this. Must have rolled off the mountain this time. :crikey:

Clint
 

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My last idea didn't pan out and this one might not work either but...
What if you tried to reprogram them both? It can't hurt to try.
I found these directions.



1. Sit in vehicle. Key out of ignition. Close and lock all doors with the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch on the drivers door.
2. Insert key into ignition and remove it from ignition key cylinder at least six to 14 times within 12 seconds. Your hazard lights will flash a couple of times if you have performed this step successfully. (Withdraw key completely from ignition cylinder each time). If this procedure is performed too fast, or too slow, system will not enter programming mode. If nothing happened pull key out of ignition and start over from step one (you must open drivers door then restart step one).
3. Insert key right away when you see the hazard lights flash into the ignition cylinder and turn to the ACC position. Do not start the vehicle. At this time the new ID code is ready to be entered from the replacement remote.
4. Within 5 seconds, push ANY button on the keyless remote. Your hazard lights should flash. (Do not press the button more than one time in the above step). If the button is pressed more than one time, the programming procedure will not be successful.

****** If there is only one remote controller skip step 5 *******

5. If there are any other remotes that need programming, unlock then lock all the doors using the drivers side power lock/unlock switch and within 5 seconds, push ANY button on the next remote. Your hazard lights should flash. Repeat this step for each keyless remote. A maximum of four ID codes can be entered.
6. Turn the key to the OFF position, remove key from the ignition, unlock doors using the drivers side power lock/unlock switch and step out of the vehicle. Close the driver’s side door. Check remote.

The horn chirp during lock or unlock can be disabled by pressing the lock and unlock buttons at the same time until the hazard lights flash. To enable the horn chirp, press the lock and unlock buttons at the same time until the horn chirps.



Clint
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Was gonna try reprogramming but since the buttons only work when they want, I didn't get very far lol. Anyway...

I stopped by the local dealer and showed the service manger the fobs and the truck. He said and I quote "WTF?! That's like the weirdest sh!t I've ever seen!" He said it's probbaly the BCM because both fobs work fine.

Anyone know how to check the BCM to see if it is faulty, or where it is located? He told me it's under the radio near the center console. I've had the dash apart many times, but never really looked for it.

O and Clint, thanks for the help and detailed instructions! You're in North Jersey, stop by and help me fix this! lol
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I know where the BCM is located. And just recently I've relocated my antenna for my GPS under the dash right next to it. The antenna has a magnetic base. I'm thinking it may be possible that the magnetic base is interfering with the radio signal to the BCM. I'm going to try relocating it somewhere else and hope it works.

In the mean time, does anyone know if the BCM has some kind of receiver antenna for the remote? Or is it all self contained?
 

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i had this happen before on my 2006. But with me, one of my tpms sensors was fried. So i took it to the dealer showing them the weird FOB problem but they first changed out the fried tpms and that fixed the FOB! strange? weird? yes, why the FOB and tpms are related i dunno. my truck has been working fine for the last 2 years. so my question to you is, do you have tpms issues also?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've never really had any tpms problems. The light never comes on or anything, except for when I have the Nismos on, but that's only because they don't have tpms. The problem started with the stockers on.
 

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You may be right. Look in your owners manual mine was on page 4-17 (car phone or CB Radio) says warning keep antenna as far away as possible from electronic conmtrol modules. Keep the antenna wire more than eight inches from electronic control system harnesses. Do not route the antenna wire next to any harness.

Clint
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey 1stNISSAN. My TPMS light randomly started flashing on my dash today while driving, then went off. Maybe mine's having the same problem now. Idk, it's only a very minor but VERY annoying problem.
 

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Hey 1stNISSAN. My TPMS light randomly started flashing on my dash today while driving, then went off. Maybe mine's having the same problem now. Idk, it's only a very minor but VERY annoying problem.
have disconttire check all four tpms out for you. they checked mine and actually reprogrammed mine for free. i'm telling you the tpms transmits a signal, the FOB transmits a signal, and they must be crossing because one is defective.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I THINK WE'VE MADE A BREAK THROUGH!

Brought the truck to Nissan today, they tried blaming it on my head unit, blue lights, air horn stuff like that. Once they got it into their heads that it wasn't any of those things, one of the mechanics noticed that every time the cargo light is on, the fob starts going nuts. Once it goes off, it works again. And guess who just installed new LED's in the cargo lamps? :hi:

So I pulled the fuse out for my cargo lights, and BAM! key fob works again! :fantastic:

So moral of the story is...some LED's apparently screw with your key fob...so be careful! :thatswck:
 

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I THINK WE'VE MADE A BREAK THROUGH!

Brought the truck to Nissan today, they tried blaming it on my head unit, blue lights, air horn stuff like that. Once they got it into their heads that it wasn't any of those things, one of the mechanics noticed that every time the cargo light is on, the fob starts going nuts. Once it goes off, it works again. And guess who just installed new LED's in the cargo lamps? :hi:

So I pulled the fuse out for my cargo lights, and BAM! key fob works again! :fantastic:

So moral of the story is...some LED's apparently screw with your key fob...so be careful! :thatswck:
makes no sense, but if it fixes the problem, good job.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
HUH... You're the 2nd person on here I've heard had that problem! I've run v-leds without issue, but I think the other guy usued autolumination.com ones.

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f10/question-those-w-led-cargo-auto-door-locks-65724/
That guy described my problem to a T. Mine came from Super bright LEDs, I'm going to get some from V-LEDs and see if it helps.

And 1stNISSAN, you're right it makes no sense to me :confused: All my interior lights are LEDs, plus all my brake lights, and I've never had a problem until I changed over the cargo lamps. There must be something in those bulbs in conjunction with the BCM thats causing some kind of interference. So strange.
 

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That guy described my problem to a T. Mine came from Super bright LEDs, I'm going to get some from V-LEDs and see if it helps.

And 1stNISSAN, you're right it makes no sense to me :confused: All my interior lights are LEDs, plus all my brake lights, and I've never had a problem until I changed over the cargo lamps. There must be something in those bulbs in conjunction with the BCM thats causing some kind of interference. So strange.
I did an internet search on "SMD LED interference". I didn't find much info, but there are some LEDs advertised as "no FM/RF interference" so it must be a known issue.
 

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This is a good reason to keeep a written log of all the improvements made to the truck with a date on it. When something arises you just undo the last electrical repair/improvement and see if that corrects the issue. This shows how we don't always tend to tie things together. Good to know it's solved and didn't cost big $$$$ to take care of it.

Clint
 

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I have found on other sites that LED's can interfer with tps and fobs. I was going to buy new LED taillights but can not find out which brands cause interference.
 
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