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Hey all. I finished installing a pair of KC Slimlites last weekend and am going to give a detailed write up on how things went. I used the 6" driving beam pattern lights, the KC part number is 124. I couldn't find much online relating to the combination of these lights and frontiers specifically so hopefully this will help some of you work out some particulars. I did this on my 2013 SV CC 4x4 with the 4L V6 but the steps should be pretty similar for any second gen. This is my first electrical mod on any vehicle so if I did something wrong PLEASE let me know so that I can fix it. This thread is as much for my benefit as anyone else's, we can all learn from my mistakes. ::wink::

TAKE BOTH FUSES OUT OF THE WHITE AND YELLOW WIRES BEFORE DOING ANY OF THIS SO YOU DON'T BREAK THINGS OR SHOCK YOURSELF!!
I also recommend using the dielectric grease that comes with the kit on every connection made here. It's not necessary but it helps lube things up and makes them easier to connect, just squeeze a small amount onto the tip of the prong before plugging things together.

(Step 1) First step is to mount your relay. It has to be near enough to the battery for the power cables to reach the positive terminal. I put mine on the inside of the fender on the passenger side of the battery. I think this is the best location as it is out of the way and makes storing excess wire really easy, the only downside is that you have to remove the battery to drill the relay in and later on to drill one of the ground wires in. It's easiest to just leave the battery out until the very end.



(Step 2) Next is to mount the lights somewhere. I have a Steelcraft bull bar I mounted on. Many bull bars will mount the lights in the same location as mine but depending on where and how you mount you may have to run wires from the relay to the lights differently than I did.

(Step 3) Now run the red and black wire sets from the relay to the lights, these are the ones with the plug on the end that clearly fits into the plugs on the lights. Of course make sure to run the longer wire to the light farther from the relay and the shorter wire to the light closest. I pushed them from the engine compartment to in front of the radiator and was able to reach my fingers into the grey part of the grill to push them further down until I could reach them from underneath. On the picture I drew the path of these wires in red.



(Step 4) Now route the green and white wire set across to the rear driver side of the engine bay, this is where they will pass through the firewall into the cab. The end of the white wire with the fuse near it will stay with the relay, its obvious that both ends of the white wire cannot reach all the way across but just to be clear. When everything was finished I zip tied them to the factory loom but I highly recommend not managing any wires until everything is connected and working so that you don't risk wasting cable ties. I've drawn the path of these wires in green on the photo.



(Step 5) Now we need to get the green and white wires into the cab, there is a rubber grommet just to the passenger side of the factory loom, this can be removed from the inside of the cab by lifting up a flap of insulation and feeling around for it then just pulling it out with your fingers. I drilled a hole in the grommet with a step drill bit to allow the wires through then put it over the wires and back in place. This picture is from the engine bay but one from the inside will come in a later step.



(Step 6) Its switch mounting time. I put mine under the ignition because it was easy to drill into and run wires to. I did not have to remove any panels to get it installed. To help line things up and make sure that the area I was drilling into was clear on both sides I removed that plastic thing that is right under the ignition so that I could see the holes it clips into from both sides and I could use those holes to see exactly where the drill would come out in the back. I ended up drilling just below the hole that is second from the drivers side. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND using a step drill bit for this. Also known as a christmas tree bit if you have one it will make this job much easier. Just start with a small hole and go bigger until the switch fits correctly, I believe mine ended at 1/2" but I'm not completely sure. VERY IMPORTANT: This mounting location may not work for everyone because the switch sits very close to where your legs rest when sitting in the drivers seat and while driving. I'm 5'4" and pretty thin so I don't have any issues but make sure to consider this before drilling. If I lift my leg slightly I can actually operate the switch both on and off with my knee which I actually kind of like but its also easy to reach with my hand.





(Step 7) Now we get to install and wire the switch. At this point you will need the brown wire with an O-connector on each end that came separate from the rest of the harness. The three wires will serve as ground, load, and supply for the switch. Brown=ground; Green=load; White=supply. The switch has three prongs on it, one for each wire and there is a diagram on the switch showing which prong gets which wire. Mine had ground on the top (the side of the switch WITH the LED on it), load in the middle, and supply on the bottom (the side of the switch WITHOUT an LED) but check yours just in case it is different. Before pushing the wires through the hole you drilled for the switch put them through the plastic nut that came on the switch and then pass them through the panel and plug them into the switch. They are hard to grip so I pulled the plastic covers back and used pliers for grip then pushed the plastic covers back on once the connection was made. Now put the switch in place and tighten the nut down from behind the panel to secure it. This is a picture of the switch from behind the panel after it is installed.



(Step 8 ) Now its time to ground your switch. Drill the open end of the brown wire into the drivers side fender wall, I just routed it with the green and white wires but instead of passing it into the engine bay I drilled it here. You can also see in this picture where to find the grommet the green and white wires pass through the firewall. BE CAREFUL DRILLING THE GROUND CONNECTION HERE I dropped two screws because I couldn't get my hand back there to hold them steady and was not able to find them once they fell to the left of that plastic panel to the driver side of the brake pedal.



(Step 9) Now we are done in the cab and it's time to ground the lights with the black wire connected to the relay. Drill it into the same panel you drilled the relay into, once this is done you can put the battery back in but don't reconnect the positive side yet.

(Step 10) Remove the nut that holds your positive battery connector down and slide the yellow and white wire ends onto the bolt, now replace the nut. I had to cut a small bit out of the plastic positive terminal cover to allow it to fit over the yellow and white wires. I don't have a picture of this but basically and upside down U shape.

(Step 11) Replace the fuses in the yellow and white wires making sure they go back into the same wire they came out of. The yellowish fuse goes in the yellow wire and the purple fuse goes in the white wire. If the colors of your fuses aren't the same as mine then the fuse rated for higher load goes in the yellow and the one rated for less goes in the white.

(Step 12) All of the major stuff is essentially done so now just test them out and if they work you can proceed to manage all of your cables. If they don't work you'll have to go over everything again in order and check for anything that was not done correctly. Managing cables is very important as loose cables around moving parts can cause major catastrophe so take your time and do this step right. I used most of my cable ties to hold the green and white wires to the factory loom and used electrical tape on most everything else. Make it so that there is the least amount of loose cable possible everywhere along the entire system.

And that's it! It took me about three hours but that's mainly because I tend to be really perfectionist about this kind of thing and the thought of accidentally breaking something really scares me so I spend a ton of time double and triple checking everything. If you are more experienced or confident I wouldn't be surprised if you could get it done right in less than an hour.

Now I have two questions for you all.
1: Got any tips for aiming these lights well? I followed the directions and got them close but I can't seem to get them both at an even level and in the exact right position.

2: Does my truck look better with or without the skid plate on the bull bar?

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Unfortunately all of the pictures I originally included in this post are no longer being displayed making this much less helpful. If anyone knows how to fix this and is interested in seeing those pictures just let me know and I'll try to get them to you somehow.
 
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