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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

Has anyone installed these? Crutchfield states that they will fit. I have a Alpine deck with the 45watt RMS amp, and I think these speakers should give me better bass from stock.

Any othee 6x9 separates
331750
recommendations?
 

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Has anyone installed these? Crutchfield states that they will fit. I have a Alpine deck with the 45watt RMS amp, and I think these speakers should give me better bass from stock.

Any othee 6x9 separates View attachment 331750 recommendations?
jBL has some with the tweeter thing separate as well. I went with the non component speakers when I realized it doesn't make that much of a difference bass wise . Do you not have a subwoofer? Raine is of course going to have the best details on the matter I'd say given their experience, but I got a slim 10 inch subwoofer that goes under the seat and it sounds really good without taking up space in the back that I use for storage.
 

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jBL has some with the tweeter thing separate as well. I went with the non component speakers when I realized it doesn't make that much of a difference bass wise . Do you not have a subwoofer? Raine is of course going to have the best details on the matter I'd say given their experience, but I got a slim 10 inch subwoofer that goes under the seat and it sounds really good without taking up space in the back that I use for storage.
I think OP is hoping for "better bass" due to swapping out the OEM paper speaker with a higher power JL 6x9.
Not really going to happen - what will happen is better mids (and highs due to the upgraded tweeters) at higher volumes without distorting.
For actual subwoofer-type bass you need... a subwoofer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I am not expecting a 6x9 speaker (really a woofer, not a subwoofer) to create awesome bass. But I expect that the speaker, with the amplified power, to provide much more punch than the factory speaker. And I chose separates so the tweeter can be in the dash and closer to the optimum listening angle to hear good stereo separation.

I remember "back in the day" in the 80's, I had a couple Pioneer 6x9 speakers on the rear deck of a camaro amplified by an Orion 220 amp. My friends thought I has a sub in the trunk because they sounded so good!
... the good 'ol days!
 

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I am not expecting a 6x9 speaker (really a woofer, not a subwoofer) to create awesome bass. But I expect that the speaker, with the amplified power, to provide much more punch than the factory speaker. And I chose separates so the tweeter can be in the dash and closer to the optimum listening angle to hear good stereo separation.
You'll get a little bit of punch. The factory door frame has too many openings to add significant punch without doing some mods.
Good call on the components, that's the right way to do it (don't forget you have to run new wire for the dash location to use the components properly)
 

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I am not expecting a 6x9 speaker (really a woofer, not a subwoofer) to create awesome bass. But I expect that the speaker, with the amplified power, to provide much more punch than the factory speaker. And I chose separates so the tweeter can be in the dash and closer to the optimum listening angle to hear good stereo separation.

I remember "back in the day" in the 80's, I had a couple Pioneer 6x9 speakers on the rear deck of a camaro amplified by an Orion 220 amp. My friends thought I has a sub in the trunk because they sounded so good!
... the good 'ol days!
Honestly though. If your goal is bass without going insane. Go on Amazon and look at the under seat subwoofers. I replaced all of the OEM speakers with with jBL speakers in the 160$ a pair price range, and the sound was improved, but not significantly. I added a 100$ under seat sub and there it was the bass I wanted no more no less.

Something like this or the rockville ones suggested by Amazon . I have the 8 inch 400w rockville, it sounds great and and it is very noticeable inside the truck both audibly and physically , without making you sound like you're trying to impress ppl at stop lights.

Underseat subwoofer
 

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Door speakers are sometimes described as "mid"-woofers by some...makes better sense to me. For truer frequency fill, a subwoofer is necessary. Some punchy OOOMPH down low in the frequency band - makes all the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You'll get a little bit of punch. The factory door frame has too many openings to add significant punch without doing some mods.
Good call on the components, that's the right way to do it (don't forget you have to run new wire for the dash location to use the components properly)
I am confused why you would need to run a new wire to the tweeter. Can't you add the crossover to the tweeter and be good? Or maybe install 2-way 6x9 speakers in the door and add a tweeter in the dash since they have a minimal load?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I am confused why you would need to run a new wire to the tweeter. Can't you add the crossover to the tweeter and be good? Or maybe install 2-way 6x9 speakers in the door and add a tweeter in the dash since they have a minimal load?
This is from the JL Audio guide...


332411
 

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I am confused why you would need to run a new wire to the tweeter. Can't you add the crossover to the tweeter and be good? Or maybe install 2-way 6x9 speakers in the door and add a tweeter in the dash since they have a minimal load?
A: A typical 2-way component speaker system consists of an unfiltered midrange, an unfiltered tweeter, and a 2-way passive crossover., like this (quick pshop):

332433


B. Most of the Nissan Frontiers with Premium audio (speakers in the dash and doors) have the front channels wired in parallel - meaning the tweeter and midrange are wired in parallel to each other, with no passive crossover in between, like so (another quick pshop):
332434

The small filter on the tweeter blocks low frequencies to the tweeter, but the midrange still gets full range. The point where the wires are tied together are somewhere behind the dashboard, which is why if you want to install a component system that uses a separate passive crossover, you have to run new wires to either the door or the dash if you want to use part of the OEM speaker wires for the front.

C. Within the context of this thread, there are 2 exceptions to what I just explained:

1. If you have the Rockford Fosgate premium audio, then you have separate front channels to each of the front speakers; however the rear doors of the Rockford Fosgate system are wired in parallel, so same problem but int he back;

2. If you buy a component system where each driver has its own filter - like the JL Audio image you posted.

So in that case no, you don't have to run new wires to the dash to use that JL tweeter and JL tweeter filter... but again, that's an exception. Hopefully that clears any confusion up.
 
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