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JettyLife

40784 Views 114 Replies 25 Participants Last post by  JettyLife, 
JettyLife
Username: JettyLife

New Truck purchased 11/2015
Name: Toby
Year: 2012
Make: Nissan
Model: Frontier
Trim: SV
Color: Silver


Original Truck, sold 11/2014.
Year: 2010
Make: Nissan
Model: Frontier
Trim: Pro4X
Color: Silver
Interior:

Exterior:
-Bakflip G2 Tonneau cover
-Rigid Duallys (4)
-Xoskel Bumper Mouth Light Bracket
-Rally Armour Mud Flaps
-Bumper valance delete
-Painted factory "skid" plate
-Custom tie-downs

Drivetrain:
-Stock Pro4X Locker
-Axle Vent Mod

Suspension & Tires:
2.5" ADF Spacers & 2" PRG Blocks
SPC UCA's
Armor:
-Stock "skid plates"

Performance:
-Superchips Flashpaq Tuned to 87 Octane Performance
-Kool Vue Cold Air Intake
-Spectre high flow dry performance filter
-Radiator Bypass

Gear and Other:


About Me:
My name is Corey I've lived in Southern New Jersey my whole life.

At 14 and bought myself a dirt bike, my pride and joy, Yamaha Yz125.

I later sold the bike to buy my first truck, a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited (ZJ).
After modding. Never got to lift it. Never should have bought the Jeep as a 17 year old kid. I spent my entire savings on it and when the transfer case went out on it a month after I had it I soon was in debt with my parents for $1800.


I was so proud of these wheels.


Light bar that I gave someone the idea for and he made me one for free and now sells them online somewhere.


At 125k miles it started having problems out the wahzoo and needing a new rear axle, I couldn't afford to keep up with the maintenance on my minimum wage grocery store, couple days a week job.
I got my Xterra and sold the ZJ a couple weeks later for $200 less than what I paid for it. I should've bought Nissan in the first place... After all I was raised Nissan.

Me and my sister on the back of my dads old Hardbody. He had it for as long as I can remember before finally selling it with 200,xxx miles and moving to a '98 Frontier which he ultimately put 250,xxx miles on.


Anyway, heres the X.

Those KC floods were the best thing I did to that truck. They're such a great output light for a 100 watt halogen.

Once I got a real job in Atlantic City I sold the X to my father who bought it for my sister, and I got the Frontier. Best purchase ever.

I'll make a couple posts below this one for the modding. Thanks for reading!

Sold the truck in November of 2014. The guy lives in my town and I see it all the time. I bought a car, 2013 Subaru WRX. It's a blast to drive, but it doesn't have the reliability I needed for my own piece of mind. Frontier coming soon!
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JettyLife
Some cool pictures I like
Avatar.

Train.

Hurricane Sandy washed up the foundation of an old Coast Guard station.

Mods
My version of custom tie downs and surfboard/snowboard rack.




I want to eventually get this to the point where people (beginners mostly) can use my page as a reference. Most of the write ups for beginning, cheap, useful, mods are full of pages and pages of arguments, and user experiences, which is great! But it can be a lot of nonsense to read if you just want the How To. So hear it is. Straight to the point, helpful, and clean.

Bakflip G2:



Rally Armour Mud Flaps



Painted Skid


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T
I got 2 sets of rigid duallys for christmas im planing on mounting them on my bullbar, do you have any pics of yours mounted yet?
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JettyLife
TATTOOED NISMO said:
I got 2 sets of rigid duallys for christmas im planing on mounting them on my bullbar, do you have any pics of yours mounted yet?
Click to expand...
Xoskel Bumper Mouth Light Bracket. Runs approx. $60


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Vipsnipa
I got the same Rigid Lights but I rotated my cover so that the words were correct. Not upside down. To me thats a great location because it doesn't really stick out. Nice Ride.
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JettyLife
Axle Vent Mod
What do I need??
Nissan Part #:38323-C601A, Hose (I used 1/4"), and a filter (I used a cheapo chain saw filter) and hose clamps. Got my Nissan part here: http://www.courtesyparts.com/breathr-co-p-587494.html




You can't see it because there's a hose in the way... but this is where it goes.

Where this OEM breather was.

The stock breather gets clogged with gunk and causes the axle to build pressure, either positive or negative. Both are bad... It will cause premature axle seal failure, and can cause your axle to become contaminated with whatever water you're fording... Change it out and move it up.
I put mine behind the tail light. Took 7' of hose.


Don't forget to leave a bit of slack for axle movement. Just go by what the brake hose has, if Nissan says it has enough movement, so will your new vent hose.

Done!

Radiator Bypass
What do I need??
Cold engine.
10mm socket with short extension.
Pliers for use on the hose OEM clamps.
Something to catch half a mouthful of Automatic Transmission Fluid.

Ok, pull down the skid and lay under the truck. This is what you'll see.

It looks like a lot I know. It's simple however and even someone with little to no mechanical skill can do this.
Picture below: These are the 2 hoses you're going to switch. The hose encircled in blue is 1 of 2 hoses as you can see. When you get under the truck you'll see that it's the top hose. It'll make more sense when you get under there I promise.

This is all you need to do! This will bypass the radiator portion of the transmission fluid route. The blue hose will make a complete circuit which will keep everything closed and protected from the outside elements.
I used all the factory hoses and clamps. No reason for cutting, splicing, nothing. It you choose to add another trans cooler, that's all good, but I'm not so I can't help you there. Not yet at least. I think come summer time I'll add a fan to the stock cooler. Some others in the club have done temperature experiments regarding before and after trans temps and everything looks good so far.
Go drive it!
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T
Truck is looking good, i made a light bar out of unistrut for my bed and it is mounted like you mounted your tiedowns, I dont have any pics yet i plan to make a build thread soon and i cant wait to get my rigids mounted its just to COLD outside here in utah at the moment.
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JeniorNV
Sub'd for updates. I like the introduction in the first post. :)
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JettyLife
JeniorNV said:
Sub'd for updates. I like the introduction in the first post. :)
Click to expand...
Thanks! I have big plans for the truck, I'm only limited by my budget for now. Getting all the basics out of the way for now, and I'm almost done with that before I can really start outfitting it how I want it.
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jsocks014
Great start so far. How long have you been running the new flaps and have they helped?

edit: and did you get the basic or urethane universals?
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JettyLife
jsocks014 said:
Great start so far. How long have you been running the new flaps and have they helped?

edit: and did you get the basic or urethane universals?
Click to expand...
Been running them for about 3-4 months now. They're pretty durable. I had to trim the fronts a lot more than I wanted to though and they still rub with 265/75/16 Rugged Trails. The backs went on without any trimming and they look great. I made sure the flaps hung over the edges of the fenders by almost 2" and it definitely helped with the rocks getting kicked up. I rarely hear the familiar "ping" of stones on the rocker panels.

When I switch to 285's I might try to modify the stock flaps with some trimming, not really sure. I'm just worried about how the fronts will rub.
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jsocks014
Ok, I think I may give the basic plus's a try. My rear bumper is so torn up after just 10 months and just noticed 2 nice sized chips on my driver rear fender. So some touch up paint and flaps are in my near future. Your pics are the first rally's I have seen so far and looks good! Could you maybe grab side pics so I can see clearance?
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x_mods
Man, I never saw this till now!

Looks great! :fantastic:
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JettyLife
jsocks014 said:
Ok, I think I may give the basic plus's a try. My rear bumper is so torn up after just 10 months and just noticed 2 nice sized chips on my driver rear fender. So some touch up paint and flaps are in my near future. Your pics are the first rally's I have seen so far and looks good! Could you maybe grab side pics so I can see clearance?
Click to expand...
I forgot to tell you, I have the basic ones, like $25.
Some more pics for ya. I'll grab the clearance tomorrow if the weather clears up.



x_mods said:
Man, I never saw this till now!

Looks great! :fantastic:
Click to expand...
Thanks! After I get the basics out of the way I can start to get creative!
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JettyLife
LED Conversion

Decided to convert to LEDs. Not all at once but most of them for now.
It took me a lot of searching and ordering wrong parts before I figured out what the heck I needed, so hopefully this will save someone some time, effort, and money.

First off, our stock bulb types.
High & low beam headlamp: 9007
Fog/Driving light: H11

Parking light / Front Turn Signal: 7444NA
Rear turn signal: 3156A
Tail light / Brake light: 3157
High mount stop light: 912
License plate: 168
Back up / reverse light: 921
Front sidemarker: 194
Map light: DE3175
Dome light: DE3175
Bed/Cargo Lamp: 912

Important!!!
This part will save you a TON of searching.
There are 2 types of bulbs. Regular and "CK" style sometimes seen "SACK" style. You can tell the difference by the number of wires going to the socket. Regular has two (2) and CK has three (3).
The following bulbs are CK style on our trucks:
Rear turn signal, Tail/rear brake light.
If you insert a regular style bulb into the CK style socket you'll blow fuses. Don't do it. It won't work.

Now, make sure you order 7443 style bulbs for the front, don't make the same mistake I did and order 3157. Here's why.
\/This is 7443\/ Notice the base is smooth down the sides.

\/This is 3157\/ Notice the small tabs on the side of the base. This will NOT fit in a 7443 Socket.


So, what do you need?
Front Turn signals / Parking lights: 7443 (non-CK)(dual brightness, make sure its for a parking/turn signal)
Rear Turn signals: 3157CK
Tail / Brake lights: 3157CK
High mount stop light: 912
License plate: 168
Back up / Reverse: 921
Front side marker: 194
Interior lights (map & dome): 3175 (31mm festoon)
Cargo lamp: 912

Good luck! I'm working on my return shipment to vLED as I type this, I hope everyone else can do this in one shot and not have to go back and forth like me. I did all this research after I ordered willy nilly lol.
Left is stock halogen, right is 5000k High Power LED
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Update! Installed the rear flashers, reverse LEDs, and load resistors. Night shots to come! Here's a before and after video, no more hyperflash.
Before

After
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glamisdude
Just came across this, good info in here! A great build thread with DIY instructions built in! What more can you ask for:D Keep up the good work!
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JettyLife
That's exactly what in was going for! I want people to be able to come here to find stuff son they don't have to search and all like i did.
It'll get more in depth as I get the basics out of the way.
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JettyLife
Plans for 49 degree weather tomorrow! Custom DIY oil catch can and write up for this thread. Hopefully one of these From Home Depot:


Or this from Sears

and some vacuum hose will do the trick. I've seen it done on some subaru sites and other car forums. We'll see how it goes I guess... I think the stock hose is 3/8 so the craftsman one might do the trick since its ports are 3/8. I think I can mount it right in line with the existing hose using a small straight piece of new hose and I won't have to cut the OEM hose. We'll see!
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JettyLife
Lifted!

Finally own a lifted truck. There's 2 things I always wanted, tail light guards, and a lifted truck lol. Now I have both.
Details:
2.5" All Day Fab spacer up front
2" PRG block in the rear
PRG Camber bolts
Work done by, "Merkord's Garage" Egg Harbor City NJ. Install+Alignment cost $248.24.
4 hours of labor @ $59/hr + tax.
Photos (all I have for now:)
Before

After



All-in-all I'm happy with it. It rides a tad rough in the rear, the stock bilstiens are maxing out at 2" of lift probably. So far no Coil Bucket contact (I tried pretty hard today off road) I don't do much hardcore offroading so I'm good. Mostly dirt roads and the beach. I'll replace the rear shocks when the stock ones are shot.
The shop could not get perfect alignment on the front driver's side even with the cams. There's a slight positive camber. I'll take some shots tomorrow but I think it'll be ok. I'll go for some SPC (nisstec) UCA's when they produce a smaller joint boot that will not need grinding of the coil bucket.
The Good:
truck looks awesome, nearly level, aggressive stance, no CB contact, handles like stock
The Bad:
rough riding rear, improper alignment on driver's side
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S
Looking nice!
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