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The biggest challenge was removing the control arm bolts. Basically, I had to cut the arms into pieces to be able to cut all the bolts (except one, which I managed to get out) even after repeated soaking in PB1. A grinder with a quality cutoff wheel worked best for me.

I have done the whole install by myself and everything, especially the disassembly, took much longer than expected. Luckily, I was able to use a different car for my daily driving until it was finished. I had to make a number of runs for OEM nuts and bolts or getting some extra tools.

Another challenge has been getting all the parts. I have specifically ordered everything from a single company, PRG, was promised that everything will arrive within 4-6 weeks. The reality was that after 3 months I have finally got parts to complete the swap although with too short shocks in the rear. Since then, it has been additional 6 weeks (so far) of waiting on and calling PRG to get the correct size with blocks. Greg from PRG is extremely knowledgeable if you can reach him but contacting him is a nightmare and all delivery promises are absolutely unreliable.

Together with the Titan Swap, I have planned installations of new offroad front and rear bumpers, which allowed me better access to the suspension after the old bumpers were stripped off. It also allowed me to clean, rust-proof and paint large sections of the frame in the front and rear. All these tasks extended the time on this project but I felt that it was the right time to do them.
Would you recommend getting extra hardware? Also, I've heard Greg from PRG is hard to get ahold of, and parts are shipped intermittently. Any idea on how quickly you go your parts? Only a week in and I already got my leaf springs, but no hardware.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
As I said, in my case it took 3 months to get everything, sort of. Since then, I have been waiting for some replacements for 6 additional weeks and counting. In those six weeks, I have actually managed to get a response from Greg exactly once.

What do you mean by 'extra hardware'? Nuts and bolts? I did replace everything as recommended by the Factory Service Manual plus the control arm bolts. I think that I have damaged a few other bolts during removal but don't remember which ones.
 

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Wow, that's one serious amount of mods, I'm in equal parts awed & jealous. Probably won't ever go that far with mine but certainly give mad respect for the amount of cash and labour it took to get there.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Wow, that's one serious amount of mods, I'm in equal parts awed & jealous. Probably won't ever go that far with mine but certainly give mad respect for the amount of cash and labour it took to get there.
Lol. It sort of ballooned after I concluded that I want to do things right the first time. And in reference to your signature, I work at NASA :geek:
 

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LOL Jan, now that's pretty dang cool. I dont think I know anyone personally who actually works for NASA. Sweet. Welcome to the group.
 

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Honestly... Just skip PRG. It took months for me to get all of my items and the last items I was waiting on were ubolts. Not a particularly hard to find item. That being said he was very helpful the one time I got him on the phone, but I will join dozens of other people in saying he needs an office manager to get his business up to par.
 
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Jan, that is tight! Great look (and I love that paint from the factory). Kudos for taking the time and putting inth effort to really make the project sing. It's more than I'll ever do for mine, but I really appreciate the quality you've created.

And speaking as a citizen, thanks for the work you do at NASA -- it's one of the best things we do as a country, IMO.
 

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The biggest challenge was removing the control arm bolts. Basically, I had to cut the arms into pieces to be able to cut all the bolts (except one, which I managed to get out) even after repeated soaking in PB1. A grinder with a quality cutoff wheel worked best for me.

I have done the whole install by myself and everything, especially the disassembly, took much longer than expected. Luckily, I was able to use a different car for my daily driving until it was finished. I had to make a number of runs for OEM nuts and bolts or getting some extra tools.

Another challenge has been getting all the parts. I have specifically ordered everything from a single company, PRG, was promised that everything will arrive within 4-6 weeks. The reality was that after 3 months I have finally got parts to complete the swap although with too short shocks in the rear. Since then, it has been additional 6 weeks (so far) of waiting on and calling PRG to get the correct size with blocks. Greg from PRG is extremely knowledgeable if you can reach him but contacting him is a nightmare and all delivery promises are absolutely unreliable.

Together with the Titan Swap, I have planned installations of new offroad front and rear bumpers, which allowed me better access to the suspension after the old bumpers were stripped off. It also allowed me to clean, rust-proof and paint large sections of the frame in the front and rear. All these tasks extended the time on this project but I felt that it was the right time to do them.
I'm curious how you rust proofed your frame, and what paint you went with. I'm getting ready to install my Titan Swap and am getting the final pieces together.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I'm curious how you rust proofed your frame, and what paint you went with. I'm getting ready to install my Titan Swap and am getting the final pieces together.
I have washed the frame, removed thick rust with a wire wheel or brush, degreased and then applied Black Star with a foam brush. It needs to dry for a day and if the rust didn't change color to black, then I added another layer. After it was dry, I have used 2-3 layers of VHT Chassis spray paint (about ten to thirty minutes between coats).

The VHT paint does not need a primer and Black Star acts as a primer, which is why I didn't use a separate primer.

310433
 

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Discussion Starter #31
It's amazing how much stuff has been left over after the Titan swap and the installation of off-road bumpers. And the picture doesn't even show the front differential, CV half-axles or the leaf springs.

310488


The biggest challenge was removing the control arm bolts. Basically, I had to cut the arms into pieces to be able to cut all the bolts (except one, which I managed to get out) even after repeated soaking in PB1. A grinder with a quality cutoff wheel worked best for me.
On this close up picture you can see how much cutting I had to do on the control arms and bolts.
310489
 

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Thats a fair amount of cutting! Really glad I didn't have to do that with mine.

I believe my bumper ships this week sometime. Then powdercoat. Then install.

With those new bumpers and everything we need some photos!!!
 

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Looks great!

Where'd you get those tie rods? I like those way better than what I've got.
 

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Those are the from PRG - the Heim steering with outer rods. They look thicker than the stock.
Thanks! I may have to snag some and install them, then keep the stockers as spares. Not a bad thing to have spares of them out on the trail.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Rally Armor MF20-URP-BLK/RD urethane mud flaps

The mud flaps mounted in the stock three holes on the side of the wheel wells. Then one additional mounting point was created inside the well and towards the bottom.

Front (the inside mount is using the same plastic pin that is for mounting the well lining):
310808

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Rear is using a 1" nylon spacer and four stock holes in the fenders. The additional bolt is 1/4-24 SS and a locking nut.
310810

310811

310812

310813
 

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Those flaps look pretty good!

Been torn between these and the rockblox
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Those flaps look pretty good!

Been torn between these and the rockblox
I went with Rally Armor because I could not find nothing else recommended by the offroad community. This is the first time I see the rockblokz mentioned. I still have not decided whether I will test the flaps offroad or take them down. My main goals have been to reduce rock chipping and getting the sides painted with mud anytime there is a patch of a wet pavement.
 

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I went with Rally Armor because I could not find nothing else recommended by the offroad community. This is the first time I see the rockblokz mentioned. I still have not decided whether I will test the flaps offroad or take them down. My main goals have been to reduce rock chipping and getting the sides painted with mud anytime there is a patch of a wet pavement.
I briefly saw them posted on here, someone else was trying to decide between the two. Don't recall seeing the result.

Are the Rally Armor flexible at all? If they are, I wouldn't worry much about them offroad.

Definitely hear you on the truck getting coated with the titan swap. Can't have the window down with your elbow out and hit a puddle.
 
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