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Nothing fancy here, just thought I'd contribute. I was happy that all leads/switches were long enough to run to my armrest with no visible wires.



This is for my King Cab, which already had an open hole in the back under the armrest. I hope someone with Crew Cab could comment on the drill step. This might not be as easy for more a cabin with a heater vent/etc/more options than me.


Required Parts & Tools
  • PAC IS77 iSimple. (Triple check the item number, was mis-shelved at my BstBuy)
    • ==> save the bubble wrap from the original box! We use it.
  • OPTIONAL (but recommended) Two inline splice clips. See photo below (step 4), they are blue plastic clips with a metal plunger blade and locking clasp.
  • 3/4 inch drill bit (for the ON/OFF switch) for best results. You could freehand with a knife or Xacto-blade in a pinch--this hole is hidden.
  • OPTIONAL (if you want iPod + audio in) RCA mono Y-adapters 2Fem-to-1Male (x2) and 3/8 inch drill bit (for the Audio Input jack)
  • twist ties / zip ties
  • screw driver (philips #2) for console & dash removal
  • knife/scissors
Important Note: re Antenna adapter
  • I needed no antenna adapter (photo below) but you might. (I have the lowest trim XE possible, manual locks & windows)
  • Please someone confirm for different year / trim
  • Removing the dash panel & radio is easier than it looks (5-10 min) so it could be worth just taking it out & looking. I heard conflicting stories on this from audio installers, so it's best to check yourself.
Also note, I used a two Y-adapters on the RCA input R&L so that I could use both the iPod base connector AND audio input plug. This is not recommended by the manufacturer PAC, but it works for me so far. Audiophiles reading should choose one or the other, because using both could be a source of noise.


The Install HOW TO
  1. Remove the center dash panel & 4 screws securing the radio. Remove screws for center floor console so it's loose (no need to remove completely.) Detailed console removal HOW TO for my 2004 XE here.
    • Disable the Battery First! The airbag sensor will report an error if you remove the on/off switch light (required to remove the center dash cover) with the battery connected. I did this, and had to reset it. Spend the extra minute under the hood with a 12mm wrench (negative terminal) and avoid this!
  2. Confirm your antenna connector
    • If it looks like this, you're OK (Right side = Nissan's antenna for me, Left side = PAC's connectors)
    • If your connector has two prongs, or something else entirely, you'll need to buy an adapter or splice manually
  3. Dry fit. Lay everything out, untangled.
  4. 12V power
    • I spliced to the cigarette lighter outlet, in order to have a (double) fused power source that turned off with the key ignition. If you often use it as a lighter, which I believe draws a fair amount of current, it's probably better to find a different source.
    • The bundle leading to the cigarette lighter is an outer cover/sheath, a black wire, and a red wire
    • Cut the outer cover & remove a 1 inch (3cm) length
    • Splice into the wires, red to red & black to black
      • If you have the splice connectors (above), insert the wires then clamp the slotted plunge blade with a pair of pliers. Then fold the locking cap over until it clicks twice.
      • the INSET below shows the connector BEFORE clamping, with the red lead from the unit demonstrating where the outlet wire will go.
  5. Drill hole(s) for on/off switch and audio (as needed)
    • A good, hidden spot for these are inside the armrest. There's a flat ledge just perfect for this.
    • Unless you're He-Man, mark out the center & make an X with a utility knife. (If you're He-Man, just shout "By the Power of GREY SKULL" and the rest of this install pretty much happens automatically.)
    • Slow speed is best
    • Twist bits are best (but the Auger pictured worked great, so don't sweat it)
  6. Unplug the lead from the On/Off switch, and feed the metal connectors down through the hole(s).
    • Since the console is loose, you can lift it to grab the wires as they bunch up inside & take out slack.
    • Run them up towards the front of the console. Slide the empty seat front/back as needed.
    • As pictured (at top), I run my iPod connector out a hole in the back. For maximum stealth, consider cutting a rectangular access hole inside the armrest compartment.
  7. Connect everything, including the airbag switch & light!, to give it a test. (He-Man skips this step.)
    • You reconnected the battery, right?
    • Set the frequency on the iSimple to 87.9.
    • 0 = Off, | = On. (for me)
    • Conveniently, pressing BAND on my radio went to 87.9FM. Press and hold 1 to save that preset.
    • This is the time to adjust the GAIN on the unit, to match radio stations. However, I couldn't find a screwdriver that fit! Without adjustment, the volume via iPod is a bit soft, but close enough for me.
    • ... Disconnect the battery again, in case you need to take off the dash panel to make room for this last last step
  8. Wrap & tie down the unit, secure it from vibrations.
    • Not entirely visible in the photo, but the whole thing is tied to an internal pillar.

Final Thoughts:
  • Left plugged-in, your iPod will turn on when you start the car.
    • Don't forget to turn it off again when you park.
  • With switch left in ON position, FM and AM stations will be blocked. Turn off the switch and they work.
 
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