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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying to do the big3 on my 07 frontier CC. I am not the biggest mechanic on the planet and need some assistance.

I need #3 of the big 3.

Positive bat to alt.... Check
Nega bat to block... check

Block to Chassis... is this it? If so, I expected it to be mounted on the engine not on a piece of metal eventually mounted to the engine.

Image is on the driver side, the flashlight focuses on the screw/wire in question. The 12 gauge wire goes under the air filter and mounts to a part of the frame/body (approximately 8" away from the visible screw).
Auto part Vehicle Engine Car Tire

I will do a formal thread once I locate the #3

Tyvm
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Are you not bypassing the current sensor on the negative wire when you do that?
No, the sensor is on the passenger side off of the negative battery terminal.
This is on the driver (air filter).

Going to ground it today. If I have time, I will do neg battery to engine block and the pic above. I will wait for Alt+ to Battery+ and do it when my HO 270 mechman alt arrives.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I mean when you run a new wire from neg to block, aren't you bypassing the sensor doing that?
No. You run new wire through the sensor. I read somewhere here you can run a 1/0 gauge wire through it. Tight fit but it can be done with a little lubrication
 

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No. You run new wire through the sensor. I read somewhere here you can run a 1/0 gauge wire through it. Tight fit but it can be done with a little lubrication

Ahh... glad to see this, I was just going through my wire stock planning on upgrading that ground,
found some 1/0 and was wondering if it's fit through the sensor.

And yes, from what I've been reading that IS the block to chassis wire.
 

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It's here (#122) Engine Ground Fix

The OEM 12v+ from alternator and Ground cables from the battery (#1 and #2) are fine. You won't gain anything swapping these out, they're decent sized and can handle some extra load. IMO the only reason to consider doing #1 #2 is if you swapped to a high output alternator... But the block to chassis wire (#3) definitely could use some help.

If you still do #1 and #2, it won't do any harm. Just don't bypass the sensor on the battery (-) cable, as mentioned above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
great! Thanks guys!

Im actually about to work on my truck soon! I'll give an update. The engine to chassis is a weird look. I expected it to be on the actual engine just like battery neg is.

much appreciated :)
@raine, yes I am going to add an HO mechman 270 atl.
The audio system I will upgrade to needs more power... CANT WAIT! Only thing I am waiting on is my box or I would have done all this a couple weeks ago hehe.
 

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great! Thanks guys!

Im actually about to work on my truck soon! I'll give an update. The engine to chassis is a weird look. I expected it to be on the actual engine just like battery neg is.

much appreciated :)
@raine, yes I am going to add an HO mechman 270 atl.
The audio system I will upgrade to needs more power... CANT WAIT! Only thing I am waiting on is my box or I would have done all this a couple weeks ago hehe.
What audio gear do you plan on installing?
 

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I got a chance to do a little poking around under the hood this morning in
anticipation of reworking some of my wiring this week.

And it looks like the pic in your first post is NOT the primary engine to
chassis ground wire. I believe it's the ring terminal pictured below.

This one is crimped directly to the battery ground cable. It attaches to the
engine, has this terminal attaching it to the body, and then passes through
the current sensor before connecting to the battery negative post.
 

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X-10 v.2 on a fsd2600>:D
Basically going to cutout the metal frame under the rear seats and have the foam/seat rest over the box.
Uh... yeah good luck with that

I got a chance to do a little poking around under the hood this morning in
anticipation of reworking some of my wiring this week.

And it looks like the pic in your first post is NOT the primary engine to
chassis ground wire. I believe it's the ring terminal pictured below.
... wait LOL - you're the only one who said it was, haha:

And yes, from what I've been reading that IS the block to chassis wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Uh... yeah good luck with that



... wait LOL - you're the only one who said it was, haha:
I cant find the thread but did you say you used 1/0 gauge for the sensor off the battery negative?

I took off the sensor with bracket and used oil to try and get some stinger 0 gauge through the sensor... after an hour of trying I gave up. I'll order some 1 gauge (not 1/0 aka 0 gauge) and it should do the job.

Alt should be here in 2-3 weeks. Hopefully next week I get a call that my box has started :)

I did however reground the wire under the air filter. Took out my hand grinder and put a fine course wheel, sand to metal, mount 0 gauge and hit with a clear spray paint to prevent rusting.
 

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Since it's a ground, do you think you can strip off the sheathing to get the 1/0 through?

I looked at it yesterday and was thinking there was no way the 1/0 was going through but
was going to give it a shot.

I'll find out myself sometime this week, waiting for some terminals from UPS before I start
to mess with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I wouldn't do that.
I did however just place an order for 1 gauge welding cable (not 1/0 aka 0 gauge).
OD diameter is .515 with the insulation. Should be a nice tight fit as I was able to get maybe 1/8 of the 1/0 gauge through over the weekend. It started to bunch up and I gave up.

I believe the difference from 0 and 1 gauge is like .060 (I hope its enough for a nice snug fit)

I will update when the cable arrives.
 

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I wouldn't do that.
I did however just place an order for 1 gauge welding cable (not 1/0 aka 0 gauge).
OD diameter is .515 with the insulation. Should be a nice tight fit as I was able to get maybe 1/8 of the 1/0 gauge through over the weekend. It started to bunch up and I gave up.

I believe the difference from 0 and 1 gauge is like .060 (I hope its enough for a nice snug fit)

I will update when the cable arrives.

1 gauge should be able to handle 250amps in lengths under 5', so it should be fine. I'm going to try stripping the
1/0 and use that since I've ordered the materials for it. If it doesn't fit ... well... I'll wait to hear how yours went. ::grin::
 
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