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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm not sure what to look for as I haven't done truck suspension before.

I don't intend to do rock climbing crawling or mudding. Primarily fast runs on dirt roads, two tracks, fire roads, and the like. Will also spend some time in the dunes.

I'm thinking I want some clearance and increased travel.

I'm just not sure what to look for or whom would be best to look at. Looking for suggestions on what I need to accomplish the above. Thanks.
 

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The only way to significantly increase travel is to increase the length of your control arms. Checkout glamisdude's posts on Titan swap.
Probably the most economical.
If cost is not a factor, there are many options available.
 

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First question would be have you driven it as it sits in the environment you plan to operate in? How much clearance do you think you need? Titan Swap is the only thing that will get you more travel, aside from a full long travel kit. Those are spendy. And can be fab intensive. Here is GlamisDude's thread on budget titan swap & custom top-hats. He has measured 10" of travel. Even with his low-buck approach, you'll need aftermarket UCAs to get that 10" travel, in addition to the Bils F&R, coils Front, and either custom leaf pack, lift pack & shackle lift or AAL & shackle Rear and a shock Rear. Oh, and longer front axles Front and hub spacers Rear.

If you just need another 1-2 inches, You can go with a AAL or lift shackle in the rear (and shock) and Bilstein adjustable lift coil Front or the OME package F&R.
If you're really on a budget you can do a 1" spacer in the front. This would even out the truck and "remove" the rake (nose down).
 

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I don't know of any long travel " kits" for our trucks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Maybe I'm thinking to much here....

Primarily want to move quick and smooth out the "washboards."

I've been considering something along the lines of a 2-3 inch lift. UCA's? and RadFlo 2.5 with remotes?

I'm not looking for 10 inches of long travel or anything crazy.....

How much money do you want to spend?
Do you want the track width of your front wheels to increase?

I'm thinking around 4K more if its worth it; ride quality and performance.

Would prefer not to change track width.
 

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whistler hit her.


i think titan swap is the reason that the frontier is the most capable little badass on the market. you can literally toss a "mid travel" or "extended" travel kit on your truck that is 100% OEM. you cant do that with anything else i have ever seen.
pair the base titan swap kit with glamis top hats and a really good set of upper control arms and maybe beefed up lowers with a good bump stop and you are set. i think at that point you are getting pretty close to 10" travel.

i have 11.2 on my raptor and if i could get my frontier to 10 i think i would be suppppper happy with it.

the rear is another story, i dont have the same level of experience. i think a bed cage for longer stouter shocks would be cool with a set of really nice leaf springs. i just dont know at what point you are wasting your time. if your front end is running out of travel but your *** end hasnt left the ground you dropped some dollars you didnt really need to lol.
 

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Maybe I'm thinking to much here....

Primarily want to move quick and smooth out the "washboards."

I've been considering something along the lines of a 2-3 inch lift. UCA's? and RadFlo 2.5 with remotes?

I'm not looking for 10 inches of long travel or anything crazy.....




I'm thinking around 4K more if its worth it; ride quality and performance.

Would prefer not to change track width.
4K that is a bit to play with. Alot of bad press regarding radflows. Got for the Kings or sway away. Then get some UCAs. A new leaf pack and high quality shock in the rear. Boom. Done, Go Blast some desert trail.


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i actually wasnt a huge fan of the SAWS i had or my sadflows.

the SAWS were extremely firm. maybe a couple of years and a couple rebuilds they would have been where i liked them. they were stiff for sure.
 

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My home in Mexico is 47 miles from the highway. It is now paved but back when it was nothing but horrible washboard, ruts, and soft silt.
My Ford diesels were miserable on that road( not towing).Of course I was towing a boat and carrying heavy loads.For that reason , the suspension had to be stiff.
My Dodge has about 11"-12" of travel and it was a pleasure to run that road. It was fun!
From the end of town to a place called Batequi, it is 5 miles from town. I could make it there in 10 minutes. What slowed me down was the fear of destroying the truck. I use it to tow my Frontier. Airbags work great.
This is what was the deciding factor to build a dedicated race truck.
What ever you decide to do, run the lightest springs that will maintain ride height. Shocks that are properly valved to control damping.
Easier said then done, but that is the answer to running washboard in my opinion.
 

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If within your budget, buy shocks that can be revalved. If you buy non- valveable shocks you are stuck with what you got. Being able to tune is the key.
I mentioned this before. My friend had his 10 car tuned by the shock tuners at King.
It was revalved no less than 10 times plus a spring change to get it right.
Also, running washboard I would suggest running shocks with reservoirs.The largest capacity that will fit. You generate a lot of heat running washboard at higher speeds as opposed to rock crawling.
It takes a lot to get it right. My Frontier rear suspension is not right since I changed my leaf pack. It will require more testing to figure out the fix. Driving me nuts!
 

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I have Bilstein 7100 on my Dodge. They are only 2.0 but have had excellent results with them.
If someone could figure out how to run them on the Frontier without extensive modifications, they would make for an excellent choice.
 
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