Nissan Frontier Forum banner

1 - 20 of 54 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I’m going to body lift (BL) my 2013 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab Pro-4X. What I don’t know yet is how much. I’ve already leveled the suspension (2-1/2” front; 1-1/2” rear) and would actually like to create a bit of gap above the White Knuckle Offroad rock sliders so they’ll function as a bit of a step.

In the interest of determining what length bolts I need to buy, I removed most of the body mount bolts from the driver’s side (all but the one in front of the wheel—didn’t feel like pulling the fender liner out). I was able to remove each without too much effort using a standard ½” drive ratchet. One took nearly full effort all the way out, and the blue threadlock I found entirely covering the threads explained why.

Each of the cab mount bolts is the same:


And each of the bed mount bolts is the same:


Can anyone confirm if the body mount bolts forward of the wheels are the same as the other cab mount bolts?
Oh, and is it safe to assume the passenger side bolts match the driver’s side?


Thx,
Jon

PS – I’ll share my bolt calculations spreadsheet later. ;-)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
806 Posts
Yes, all of the cab bolts are the same. All 4 of the bed bolts are the same as well. And yes, they are a mother with all of that locktite on them. I ended up rounding out a bolt head, and had to take it to a shop to have them get it out.

Subscribed for bolt calculations spreadsheet metrics.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Here's my truck as it sits now, but with the rock sliders clamped on (awaiting repaint):


In this pic, I've lifted the truck 2" with jack stands and clamped the sliders back on with 2" spacers under the frame to simulate the effects of a 2" body lift:


In the second, the rear of the slider may be sagging a bit. I intend to take another shot a clear coating the sliders rather than painting them black, but think I'll paint the frame plates and short arms attached to those plates black to help them fade in with the frame and have the sliders separate a bit.

Oh, and in the last pic, I used cargo straps to further secure the sliders so we could test getting in/out of the truck using the sliders as steps. I think I'll like it. :)

 

·
Banned
Joined
·
37 Posts
There's an awesome thread with everything that you need for a body lift. I know because I used it. I wouldn't spend any effort figuring out the bolts because it's all on here already. Let me see if I can find it again. I had locktite problems with the 2 bed bolts closest to the cab. They both broke because I tried to zip them off with an impact. My advice, go very slow with a breaker bar.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
37 Posts
Here's my truck as it sits now, but with the rock sliders clamped on (awaiting repaint):


In this pic, I've lifted the truck 2" with jack stands and clamped the sliders back on with 2" spacers under the frame to simulate the effects of a 2" body lift:


In the second, the rear of the slider may be sagging a bit. I intend to take another shot a clear coating the sliders rather than painting them black, but think I'll paint the frame plates and short arms attached to those plates black to help them fade in with the frame and have the sliders separate a bit.

Oh, and in the last pic, I used cargo straps to further secure the sliders so we could test getting in/out of the truck using the sliders as steps. I think I'll like it. :)

Here you go. You'll be hard pressed to find a mod that someone else hasn't already done.

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/diy-2-body-lift-19685/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
There's an awesome thread with everything that you need for a body lift. I know because I used it. I wouldn't spend any effort figuring out the bolts because it's all on here already. Let me see if I can find it again. I had locktite problems with the 2 bed bolts closest to the cab. They both broke because I tried to zip them off with an impact. My advice, go very slow with a breaker bar.
Here you go. You'll be hard pressed to find a mod that someone else hasn't already done.

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/diy-2-body-lift-19685/
Thanks. Yes, that's an excellent thread and I've read it several times. I've also consulted this one:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f10/whats-needed-2-body-lift-19413/

In the spreadsheets I shared above, the data in the right two columns is from those threads (not sure which).

Thx,
Jon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I really like my 2" body lift and it is a simple and inexpensive mod to give you more wheel clearance.
I went through much of the stuff you see above (and more) thinking I might do something other than 2". But upon simulating 2" BL I decided no need to do anything less. ;-)

Oh, and you've inspired me to devise my own hi-lift jack mount. I'll share when I get it done.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
37 Posts
I went through much of the stuff you see above (and more) thinking I might do something other than 2". But upon simulating 2" BL I decided no need to do anything less. ;-)

Oh, and you've inspired me to devise my own hi-lift jack mount. I'll share when I get it done.
I think that's a wise choice my friend. We're men, we always want more and bigger but the frontier just isn't built for that. It's possible to make a good looking and capable rig without sacrificing safety or vehicle integrity. If you want more than your leveling kit plus a 2" body lift you should really consider sucking it up and buying a 5 or 6" kit with the drop brackets. That's the best and safest way to go. Good luck to you buddy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Well, I've been stalled a bit as I don't want to execute the BL until I have my rock sliders ready for re-installation. My first paint job failed and I'm repainting them:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/painting-bare-metal-202473/

Once the BL is complete, I'll install the sliders. Here's something I put together that I find useful when installing them:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/...te-white-knuckle-offroad-rock-sliders-210609/

I'll post more when I progress on the BL.

Thx,
Jon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I left a metal-cutting blade in my chop saw for cutting the UHMW:



Once I attached my shop vacuum to the saw, the mess was minimal. It wasn't quite like a hot knife through butter, but it sure didn't strain anything, either. ;-)


Here are the cut pucks and the leftover rod (I started with 4'):




I made up a jig from scraps to hold the puck in place on the drill press:


Once I located center on one, there was no need to refigure unless I moved the jig. I did save the puck with tape on it for last.

The photo also shows me using the forstner bit needed to counterbore the bolt heads for the bed spacers (not mounts).


There's no vacuum attachment on my drill press:




Complete 2" BL kit:



Sixteen 2" UHMW pucks.

Eight Class 10.9, 160mm long 12mm (M12-1.25) bolts (cab mounts).

Four Class 10.9, 90mm long 10mm (M10-1.25) bolts (bed mounts).

Four 55mm bolts (two get nuts & washers; two will act as pins)(bed spacers).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
First step was to lift the front of the truck and remove the front tires, giving me access to remove the fender liners and address other needed items.

I believe this wire is part of the ABS system (from others' posts):


I've seen at least one other poster extended the bracket. I'll just release the zip tie:


Plenty of slack in the line at full droop after the lift:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
After loosening the ABS wires, I loosened all eight cab body mount bolts, removed the left (drivers' side) bolts, then lifted the cab with a block of wood on the floor jack. Lift point seemed best about even with the back edge of the side mirror, or just aft of the second body mount.

Left (driver's side) front (#1) body mount with bolt removed and cab lifted:


UHMW block installed and bolt loosely engaged:


Left (driver's side) #2 body mount with bolt removed and cab lifted. You can see the jack and block of wood just aft of the mount:


UHMW block installed and bolt loosely engaged:


Left (driver's side) #3 body mount with bolt removed and cab lifted:


UHMW block installed and bolt loosely engaged:


Left (driver's side) #4 body mount with bolt removed and cab lifted:


UHMW block installed and bolt loosely engaged:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Back to the right, passenger side I noticed this wire loom was stretched pretty snug once I lift the cab:


Fortunately, there's a little slack near the bottom after lowering the cab onto the blocks:


Right (passenger's side) front (#1) body mount with bolt removed and cab lifted:


Right (passenger's side) front (#1) body mount with UHMW block installed and bolt loosely engaged:


Right (passenger's side) #2 body mount with UHMW block installed and bolt loosely engaged:


Right (passenger's side) #3 body mount with UHMW block installed and bolt loosely engaged:


Right (passenger's side) #4 body mount with UHMW block installed and bolt loosely engaged:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
After getting the cab lifted, I noticed this problem:

I suggest anyone doing this body lift completely remove the lower air dam (the black stuff) and make sure all lower (under the inner tube bumper) attachment points for the front end (body-color plastic) are detached before lifting. I didn't do this until after lifting and am afraid I may have bent some body panel attachment points. It mostly recovered after I loosened it and pushed on it a bit. We'll see..... If it doesn't stay away, I may have to remove the front end and bend those attachment points back, then re-install.

I hadn't read about it, but these wires popped out of their clips when I lifted the cab:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
On to the bed!

The license plate light wire needs to be released before lifting the bed. Squeezing the shaft (red arrow) allows the clip to be pulled out from the other side. (Disregard the wire loom retained with the green zip tie--it's part of my custom backup lights.):


I lifted the bed with straps attached to the ceiling of the garage rather than using the jack and/or stilts as others have documented. I did it that way so I could lift the entire bed at once so I could work the 'bed spacers'. I strongly suggest using cam lock cargo straps rather than ratchet straps if anyone uses this method. They're much easier to make small adjustments.


The front left (driver's side) bed mount has a 'collar' protruding down that must be accounted for:


I used a 5/8" forstner bit to drill a counterbore about 3/8" deep:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
As I'd learned from much reading of previous posts on this topic, the bed is secured with four body mounts, one at each corner. It also has four points at which the bed rests on the frame. I failed to snap a pic of that before installing the lift, so I'll use a finished photo to illustrate:

At the far left is the front left (driver's side) bed mount. Above each "X" on the frame is a 'bed spacer'. In stock condition, the bed rests on thin rubber pads at each point (two per side; four in total). Some have lifted their beds without addressing this. Not me.

The forward spacer goes right above the rear axle (center of the photo above). For this one, there's an open-ended channel with a hole already in it for mounting (I really don't believe that's why it's there.):


Here it is installed:

The underside of that puck is counterbored with a forstner bit to accommodate the bolt head and washer and allow the puck to sit flat on the frame.
 
1 - 20 of 54 Posts
Top