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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm planning on paintin my DB because it's peeling alot and has alot of surface rust. I've seen in stores about products that you just paint on the rust and it turns black.. Do you guys recommend this?? I'm planning on painting it without taking it off the truck.. Let me know what you guys suggest.. Aloha
 

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You can never get rid of rust once it starts. I see 316 L stainless rust after rubbing against carbon steel . You can grind it down until it disappears and it will come right back over time. A good rust inhibitor will keep it from spreading. I can't remeber the name of the product we used when I used to do body work. But if you do your best to remove what you can see and then cut off the o2 supply with paint or powder coating or whatever you choose. Then you stand a good chance of not seeing it again for a while or forever. With out o2 it can not rust!
 

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that inhibitor works but it only prolongs it ,best bet /sandblast/fill with bondo or some other filler maybe rocker shultz,or just seal it as best you can
 

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best thing would be to take it off the truck, sandblast and get it powdercoated (real powdercoat, not whatever calmini uses).... but you want it do on it truck.

Next best thing is hitting it with a wire wheel on an angle grinder:

http://www.toolspot.co.uk/products/Angle Grinder Accessories/M14 Knotted Wire Cup Brush 0.35Mm_t.jpg

And get all the loose crap off. After that, clean it with Marine clean (POR15 product), and Metal Ready (POR product) and then paint it with POR15 sealer and topcoat if you wish..

I'm not affiliated with POR at all.... just, a consumer (and professional) who has used the product numerous times with great results. Best part is, you need minimal equipment to use it. Just follow the instructions and it will be good.

Dave is right, rust needs 3 things to continue:

bare metal, oxygen, moisture. Since moisture is in the air, it really only needs 2 things.

PM if any of this doesn't make sense..... beer was involved
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
is this stuff expensive? im not looking for professional stuff. We dont even have powder coating here.(sad i know) but as simple as it can get i'll do it. can i order this stuff?? let me know guys//
 

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cheapest would be a wire wheel on an angle grinder or drill ,the anti rust soluition then paint.
you probly lookin at less than 50 .00
 

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Yes, it is fairly expensive.... but if you do it correctly you should never have to do it again (unless it gets physically damaged).

IMO it's the only way to go when your doing undercarriage stuff. I did my entire hardbody's frame in it last year. Still looking brand new. I'll tell you something, I painted the frame before I took the torsion bars out. When I took the t-bars out, I had to use a sledge hammer. Well one of the hits glanced off the bar and smacked the 16lb sledge into the crossmember. Only scuffed it a bit, didn't even take the paint off.

Sure it's more pricey than spraybomb but you won't have to re-coat it every 6 months. Oh, and you can brush it on; spray it on; roll it on; hell, dump it on if you want. Single stage paint, easy to use. And it's not a professional product, consumers can buy it... I got mine from the local auto parts house. Look's like there's a dealer on o'ahu:

POR-15 Inc. - International
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
sweet guys thanks for looking out. This is probably the last money i spend on this truck as im trying to get rid of it at the moment. I have a family now so i need a 4dr atleast.. back to the smurf blue, so all i have to do is grind down the rust, paint on the por15 and thats it?? is this stuff black already or i have to paint over it??
 

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It's literally that easy. Hit all the loose stuff with the wire wheel, doesn't have to be shiny metal (actually, it's supposed to be "seasoned metal") and brush the POR on. Gloss black already... good to go. Took me 2 days to do my entire frame from nasty 15 year old rusty metal to gorgeous 'new' frame. That's from pressurewashing to putting the wheels back on.







BTW, that big paint stain you see on the floor is STILL THERE. After more than 1 year, it's still the same gloss black as the day I spilled it. If it sticks to dusty, filthy bodyshop concrete.... it sticks to anything. Which reminds me... if you do end up using this stuff... get some GOOD rubber gloves. Ones that cover most of your arms, and wear old clothes. Guess how I know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
sweet i guess ill get the gloss black. Did you use the other por15 products for preparation??
 

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Just remember that it is NOT uv stable. Over time in direct sunlight it will start to fade but not degrade. They do offer a top coat uv stable coating. The stuff is awesome though well worth the money. Hardly any prep needed other than removing grease and loose rust. Wear crappy clothes and good rubber gloves cause it does not come off easy.
 

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sweet i guess ill get the gloss black. Did you use the other por15 products for preparation??

Yeah, they have a whole system. First clean it good with Marine Clean, then use Metal Ready, then the POR15 paint... UV shouldn't be a factor underneath the truck... and they say it's purely cosmetic effects anyway, doesn't hurt the paint at all. I did my frame with their topcoat "chassis black".
 
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