[mrchips11]

So, yesterday as I'm driving home from my safety inspection, my brake line exploded. I'm fairly new to these forums, and I don't see any DIY section. Does anyone know of an extensive DIY thread on how to do a good Brake Job? ::wink:: There's no way I'm not going to get air in the master cylinder. I'm going to change all the steel lines. Also, it's a manual, so I know the clutch is probably in that mess somewhere.



2000, RWD, 5spd

 

[Zedbra]

Clever title - it got me to bite. No can help with the brakes on a First gen.

 

[bobus8]

Here is some good advice on brakes. I'm not being a smart *** but if you don't know what you are doing with brakes, let someone else who does do the brake work.

 

[mrchips11]

I'm not completely clueless, I've changed brake lines before with my dad, but I was hoping some one would have a good write-up about what I need to know going in. Every vehicle is different. I'm used to working on VW, and basically always having some sort of DIY on the job before hand. VWVortex has an immense amount of information. I have yet to find such a resource for any other Manufacturer, but it doesn't hurt to ask. I appreciate the concern, but I'm going to do it anyway. There's only one way to learn.

 

[Izerous]

There should be a dealer's service manual available. The work I do to my Outlander I always skim over it first usually list parts and easiest order of disassembly. Think of them like chilton manuals on steroids since they were written by the manufacturer.

 

[Cusser]

Mr Chips - if you know how to do brake stuff on an old VW, you'll be OK here. Yes, use metric flare wrenches for initial loosening and final tightening of brake lines. My 2 Frontiers have never had a leaky caliper, wheel cylinder, brake master, or clutch master or slave leak (207K on the '98 and 95K on the 2004).

Brake pads on these is very straightforward, I use Wagner Thermo Quiet from O'Reilly. I suggest a brake pad spreader tool, under $10. Mine are on the original rotors, I don't have rotors or drums turned/replaced unless the look bad like old LP records. For the rears, use two 8.0 x 1.25mm bolts in the threaded holes to "extract" the drums. These are self-adjusting, so back them off when adding new brake shoes, and then adjust manually. Use the opposite side as a template !!!

 

[mrchips11]

There should be a dealer's service manual available. The work I do to my Outlander I always skim over it first usually list parts and easiest order of disassembly. Think of them like chilton manuals on steroids since they were written by the manufacturer.

thanks, I'm definitely going to look for one before I start

 

[mrchips11]

Mr Chips - if you know how to do brake stuff on an old VW, you'll be OK here. Yes, use metric flare wrenches for initial loosening and final tightening of brake lines. My 2 Frontiers have never had a leaky caliper, wheel cylinder, brake master, or clutch master or slave leak (207K on the '98 and 95K on the 2004).

Brake pads on these is very straightforward, I use Wagner Thermo Quiet from O'Reilly. I suggest a brake pad spreader tool, under $10. Mine are on the original rotors, I don't have rotors or drums turned/replaced unless the look bad like old LP records. For the rears, use two 8.0 x 1.25mm bolts in the threaded holes to "extract" the drums. These are self-adjusting, so back them off when adding new brake shoes, and then adjust manually. Use the opposite side as a template !!!

Thanks, but I'm mostly looking or information about bleeding the system. If that inspection was worth anything, the pads are good. They seemed pretty good before the line broke. I appreciate the advice for when I have to do it though. I've never done drums before either.

I guess it should be mostly the same as any other ABS system, so I'll just have to look for a more general explanation.

 

[Fishguy]

This page has the service manuals for all years.
Index of /FSM/Frontier
They're in PDF format and have been broken into sections to reduce the download sizes. Obviously you want section BR, but it's worth it to download the entire thing to have on file. Hope this helps.


Bleeding the system is pretty simple though. Start with the brakes that are furthest from the master. So rear passenger if I remember correctly. This pattern; RR, RL, FR, FL. There are also videos online as well if you feel the need.

 

[Nissan4Life]

YOu mean the rubber flex line bit. Always ways was suspect of those lines on older cars (70s) but this is the first time I have heard of one actually exploding. Imagine you lost all braking and somehow managed not to crash your truck. Could it have been rubbing on something? Ex wife cut your lines?

If it was from straight wear/age I would replace all rubber flex lines with any replacements including stock replacements from Rockauto or such. Then simply bleed your system.