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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This write up is for a 2nd gen Frontier or Xterra ('05+) with either motor (V6 or 4 cyl).

Tools needed:

Small Phillips head screwdriver
Socket wrench
5.5 mm socket
Needle nosed pliers (or similar tool for removing the electrical connector)
Optional: vacuum or air hose (for removing dust)
Optional: cabin air filters

This project will take 30 to 60 minutes.

About a year ago, my '09 SE started making a soft ticking or clicking sound (it sounded kinda like crickets) whenever the A/C, heater, or vent were turned on. This sound can either be an indication of debris stuck in the blower motor, or it can just be a bearing in the motor making noise. It didn't bother me for the longest time. Then a couple weeks ago, when I turned on the truck, the ticking sound was suddenly much much louder. It could be heard clearly over my normal radio volume and the blower motor occasionally started buzzing while I was driving. I have no idea whether or not that was an indication of imminent failure, but I couldn't live with the sound anymore.

The PN for the blower motor is 27226. I ordered a generic non-OEM brand from Rock Auto for $41. The Nissan brand motor is $148 from Courtesy Parts. I couldn't justify spending that much more for the Nissan one, especially since I know that the Nissan ones are prone to bearing noises.

How to:
To access the blower motor, you have to remove the lower glove box. It is held in place by five screws (two at the top, two at the bottom, one on the right side). I also removed three plastic trim pieces - the small light colored piece of plastic that goes over the screw on the right side of the glove box; the piece directly below that that wraps around the bottom of the door sill; and the triangular piece on the right side of the footwell near the front.

EDIT: Removing the lower glove box is not necessary, but doing so gives you much better access.

Here is what you will see when you remove the lower glove box. The blower motor is housed in the roundish piece of black plastic on right side of this picture, near the bottom.





Here is a close up of where the blower motor is located. (In case you were wondering, the black trap door above the blower motor is where the cabin air filters are housed. This would be a great time to change them since the trap door is so accessible.)





Next, you need to remove the electrical connector. There is a plastic tab at the bottom that needs to be pushed up in order to pull this piece out (I used needle nosed pliers).





This is the bottom of the blower motor housing with the electrical connector removed. There are three screws on the bottom of the housing that have to come out. These require a 5.5 mm socket. Two of the screws are at the front and one is at the back. This is where I ended up removing the triangular shaped plastic trim piece - it was impossible to get to the front right screw with that piece in the way.





Once those three screws are removed, the blower motor will just fall right out. If you are replacing it because of a ticking noise, check it for debris. If there is debris present, you can clean the motor and put it back in. In my case, the motor was dusty but there was no debris present that would explain the noise. Here is the old motor (top) next to the new one.





Installation is the reverse of removal. Put the new blower motor in and tighten the three screws. It only goes in one way - there is an outlet that will line up with the electrical connector.





Pop the electrical connector back into place.





Turn the key on and make sure the blower motor is working properly before putting the glove box and plastic trim pieces back on. I found the glove box was easiest to reinstall when I put the bottom two screws in first.

Enjoy the silence!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
No problem. Hopefully you never need to do this, but if you do it is fairly simple and inexpensive (unless you buy the Nissan part).

I wish there were more easy projects like this on here with PICTURES. Before I bought my truck, I had never even done an oil change so all of this stuff is new to me. Everything I found on this site just said "drop the glove box, pull the connector, undo the screws." The FSM wasn't much more detailed - I think the FSM assumes basic mechanical knowledge. ;) I had to figure out a number of the little things on my own because they weren't obvious to me (like how to get that stupid electrical connector out). I also had to search my garage to locate a 5.5 mm socket because the toolbox in my truck has a 5 mm and a 6 mm...but not a 5.5. It worked out because my husband actually did have that size, but I wish I'd known I needed that socket size before I ripped out my glove box. I was really close to making a trip to the hardware store in the middle of the project.

I may do another write up like this when I replace my body mounts. When I pulled the mounts off to check them, all I could find were body lift write ups. Much of the detailed info and pics in those threads was irrelevant to me, the stuff I really needed to know was kinda glossed over ("jack up the body of the truck" - OK, where???), and I wasn't sure which body lift steps I could skip just to check the mounts (a LOT of it can be skipped). My friend was helping me, but he didn't know what he was doing either so we made it up as we went.

I just updated the first post with a list of tools.
 

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Yea, all FSM's seem to be a little vague.. My friend was trying to reset the distributor position because he didn't mark the rotors position like I suggested. So the FSM said to set the #1 to TDC, didn't tell him anything about which cylinder was #1 or how to set it to TDC :comphead:

Hope I don't have to do this fix too, but it's still a good to the point how-to! The tools list should help speed things up too.
 

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Didn't even know this might be what's causing this- going to have to take a look! Thank you for the pictures and detail!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You're welcome. 2 years later, my cheap little off brand blower motor is still going strong.

I've removed it once to clean it and didn't remove the glove box the second time. It's not necessary to do so - it just gives you a lot more room.
 

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My ac fan motor makes a ticking sound. I also was going to change the cabin air filter
and the factory did not put a filter in my Equator. The compartment was empty.
 

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My 2014 sv didn't come with cabin filters from the factory - > it's not listed in the specs for the sv. Is the little box for the filters there anyways? I'd like to just buy the filters and pop them in.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My 2014 sv didn't come with cabin filters from the factory - > it's not listed in the specs for the sv. Is the little box for the filters there anyways? I'd like to just buy the filters and pop them in.
Yep, the box is still there.

My SE (same as the SV) came with cabin filters, but it might have been part of a package.
 

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Yep, the box is still there.

My SE (same as the SV) came with cabin filters, but it might have been part of a package.
Thanks. Just checked my '13 SV - no filter but the compartment was there. Guess I'll pick one up the next time I'm near a dealer...
 

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To expand on Jenior's response, you slide one in, push it to the right side, then slide the second one in.
 

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To add to the discussion, and help to get it back on track, I highly recommend installing a pair of filters for anyone who doesn't have one and checking the condition if you do. I replaced mine a few months after I bought the truck and this is what I found on top of them:


It made me a bit sick to think I was breathing air that was filtered through that crap for a couple months. I was glad to know that I had filters blocking that from clogging the blower motor though!
 

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How to Replace or Check the Blower Motor (ticking or buzzing when the air ven...

Delicious. I'm going to buy these tomorrow now that I've seen that.

I changed the ones in my car and there was actually some mould growing on one.
 
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