Nissan Frontier Forum banner
1 - 20 of 33 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've done numerous brake jobs before, but never had to deal with removing the hub for the frontier brakes. I saw the how-to for bearing replacement but it was for the 4wd's with autolocking hubs. My truck is a 2wd. Can someone walk me through on the procedure to removing the front rotors?
 

· Registered
2020 Toyota 4runner TRDOR
Joined
·
4,605 Posts
I haven't done mine yet, but I have had to replace a broken stud on the front.

if you pop the center cap off, there is a couple nuts and an anti-rotation washer that you ahve to remove. the outer bearing will come out with the hub and rotor (the inner bearing may or maynot stick in the hub also)
From here, I dont know if the races need to be pressed out or if the races are machined into the new rotor.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
get a haynes manual

i am a weekend warrior type mechanic. the manual is nice to have to use as a reference.

it's not hard, just have patience and an organized work area.

and yeah it sucks to have to take all that off to swap a rotor. miss my floating rotors.

good luck and look for another post from me as i found a free link to the service manuals.


brb
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,325 Posts
I am not 100% sure about the 2wd model but you may want to check on repacking the bearings and getting yourself some grease seals.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,047 Posts
Unbolt and flip the caliper out of the way. Remove the hub dust cover (a small screwdriver is handy to get it started). Use 2 philips screwdrivers (or like tools) to spin off the nut. Wiggle the rotor to pop out the bearing. Remove the rotor assy. Like Joe said, don't forget to buy the inner seals.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
This doesn't apply to 2wd, and I'm kind of shocked nobody has shown how to remove the rotors on 2wd here, as they are totally different, there's not a single youtube video either, and the ones that are on youtube are different front assemblies from what I have. Once I remove the front dust cap, and the two phillips head screws I'm left with something that this tool was designed for.



Unfortunately no one has explained what do do from that point. I will just leave it to the mechanic b/c I do not know what's next.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,901 Posts
This doesn't apply to 2wd, and I'm kind of shocked nobody has shown how to remove the rotors on 2wd here, as they are totally different, there's not a single youtube video either, and the ones that are on youtube are different front assemblies from what I have. Once I remove the front dust cap, and the two phillips head screws I'm left with something that this tool was designed for.

http://www.rkrenn.com/xterra/howto/bearing/pics/BearingTool3.jpg

Unfortunately no one has explained what do do from that point. I will just leave it to the mechanic b/c I do not know what's next.

Try picking up a Haynes manual. It will give you a step by step how to
 

· Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Try picking up a Haynes manual. It will give you a step by step how to
Totally a good suggestion, I learn best by watching videos, and I love seeing what I can accomplish myself, when I feel out-smarted, I let the mechanic take over.....I think that special tool is required to remove the rotors that I posted and rather than go buy a specialty tool I'd prefer to spend $99 labor to have it done for me...this time
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,219 Posts
Just did this on my '04, 4-cyl.

Remove the caliper (hang so there is no wieght on the hose)

Remove the dust cap and castle nut (mine had the old style with a cotter pin)

Slide the rotor/hub assembly off of the spindle (take care not to drop the outer bearing)

Remove the rotor from the hub (six bolts)

Attach the new rotor to the hub

Installation is reverse of above.

The Haynes for 1st gen is pretty good on this as is the shop manual. Let me know if you need torque specs and I will try to look them up for your year.

If the OE rotors are old enough to be worn and the bearings haven't been repacked then repacking the bearings would probably be a good idea. You'll need to replace the seal (inner) to get the inner bearing out. If you need new bearings, you should replace the races too; they can be tapped out and back in with a drift pin (brass or something relatively soft would be good).

Hope this helps get you started at least.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Just did this on my '04, 4-cyl.

Remove the caliper (hang so there is no wieght on the hose)

Remove the dust cap and castle nut (mine had the old style with a cotter pin)

Slide the rotor/hub assembly off of the spindle (take care not to drop the outer bearing)

Remove the rotor from the hub (six bolts)

Attach the new rotor to the hub

Installation is reverse of above.

The Haynes for 1st gen is pretty good on this as is the shop manual. Let me know if you need torque specs and I will try to look them up for your year.

If the OE rotors are old enough to be worn and the bearings haven't been repacked then repacking the bearings would probably be a good idea. You'll need to replace the seal (inner) to get the inner bearing out. If you need new bearings, you should replace the races too; they can be tapped out and back in with a drift pin (brass or something relatively soft would be good).

Hope this helps get you started at least.
yes if mine had the bolded line, this would have been a piece of cake, but it doesn't, I have an 03 v6 SE 2wd model, and it's got a different dust cap then what I've seen on all the videos, and retainer that I do not have a name for, that nobody else has posted pics, of, I should have taken a pic today but I decided to put it back together.

lemme search for a pic from nissan parts website.

if you look at the diagrams in this link...mine doesn't match ANY of them, lol


http://www.courtesyparts.com/fronti...on/400-front-axle/-c-2129_2130_2226_2227.html
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,219 Posts
Once I remove the front dust cap, and the two phillips head screws I'm left with something that this tool was designed for.
What year so you have? I didn't have phillip head screws or anything that needed a special tool for mine.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,219 Posts
Here's what mine looked like, and where I stopped
Not a clue! Looks like some kind of 2wd/4wd hybrid. I didn't see any mention of it in my shop manual. I'll try to dig up the Haynes manual tomorrow and see if they have any info. So you've had a shop do this already for you?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Not a clue! Looks like some kind of 2wd/4wd hybrid. I didn't see any mention of it in my shop manual. I'll try to dig up the Haynes manual tomorrow and see if they have any info. So you've had a shop do this already for you?
I haven't taken it in yet, it was just a few hours ago when I was at this point, I was going to probably take it tomorrow unless I can see how to do it myself. I was able to put it all back together without any issues. I found that picture on an xterra not frontier but it's exactly what I have, they did many line changes on parts and it appears I got a more rare scenario that doesn't have the castle nut
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,219 Posts
All right, this has me really curious so I found the Haynes manual.

It shows 2wd hubs to look just like mine.

It shows the typical 4wd hub (with the axle splines sticking out and the bolts for the free-running hub) but has a caption that reads "On Pathfinders, Xterras and 4WD Frontier models, remove the screws securing the lockwasher...".

It doesn't show a hub like yours, with the screws and lockwasher (they call it a "locknut" in the next frame), but, given the Xterra picture you provided: Is there any way that your truck got Pathfinder/Xterra hubs on it either from the factory or from a repair shop?

And yes, they say "unscrew the locknut with a tool like the one shown here (sort of like a cross between a couple of spanner wrenches and a pair of pliers), or a special socket".
 

· Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
All right, this has me really curious so I found the Haynes manual.

It shows 2wd hubs to look just like mine.

It shows the typical 4wd hub (with the axle splines sticking out and the bolts for the free-running hub) but has a caption that reads "On Pathfinders, Xterras and 4WD Frontier models, remove the screws securing the lockwasher...".

It doesn't show a hub like yours, with the screws and lockwasher (they call it a "locknut" in the next frame), but, given the Xterra picture you provided: Is there any way that your truck got Pathfinder/Xterra hubs on it either from the factory or from a repair shop?

And yes, they say "unscrew the locknut with a tool like the one shown here (sort of like a cross between a couple of spanner wrenches and a pair of pliers), or a special socket".
Anything is possible as far as it having non standard stuff, but, that does convince me to let them do it, I don't want/ need to buy specialty tools for Thai one time job, it's super cheap labor to let them do it, I don't think I'll bother with it myself. Hell the rotors and pads were $77 total, shipped for the pair, it was so cheap for parts I am kind of shocked
 

· Registered
Joined
·
196 Posts
i may have to buy this tool myself incase i ever need it, also if the parts were 77 dollars and the shop is going to charge you a little over 100 for the work, might aswell just buy the tool and do it yourself imo, better to have it and not need it, then to need it and not have it
 

· Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Take a look at this video
. Once he gets past the 4wd hub, the bearing lock nut is just like your picture. He cuts a few corners, but you get the idea of how to do it.

My 2003 2wd has the same setup. A crazy mix of 2wd/4wd parts.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top