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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This write up is for the 05-08 CC Frontier with rear defroster option. I don’t know if those without the rear defroster will have the wires for the defrost button. If someone wants to check and take some pics I will gladly add that to this write up.

I found that Nissan has 2 different sets of heated mirrors you can use. I am using one of each in mine and both are working fine. RH: 96365-EA16A LH: 96366-EA00A.

These mirrors are less expensive but you’ll have to cut away the paper to get to the Terminals.
LH: 96366-EA00A $17.65 from www.CourtesyNissan.com
RH: 96365-EA00A RH Comes in as a NON-Heated Mirror. Do Not Order



If you don’t feel comfortable with the mirrors above then you can order these for twice as much.
LH 96366-EA16A $35.02 from www.CourtesyNissan.com
RH: 96365-EA16A $32.70 from www.CourtesyNissan.com




I am using 18 AWG with 1/64” insulation. You don’t want to go much thicker than that or you may find it difficult to pull the wire through the mirror assembly.

I started with about 6 ft (per side) of red and black wire and used electrical tape to add some extra protection to the wires. You may or may not want to do this. Up to you. It also makes it a little easier to feed the wires through in some places.



***I highly recommend verifying the wires are correct before cutting them. My wire colors may be different than the colors in your wiring harness***

The first thing you should do is check to see if you have the relay and fuse installed for the heated mirrors.


If you have the relay and the fuse you’re ready to check your wiring harness for 12VDC.

Remove the panels so you can get to wire harness.


Remove the connector and check for battery voltage from the blue (power) to ground. Diver side is a light blue and passenger side is a dark blue.



Turn the key to the on position and press the window defrost button.

With a multi-meter or voltage checker put one lead to the power wire and the other to ground.

You should have close to 12VDC here.

If battery voltage is present, you are ready for the rest of the install.

Turn key to the off position.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Remove the glass from the mirror assembly.


Now you’ll need to remove the door panel.


Pull the white plastic back so you can disconnect the mirror wiring harness.



Remove the plastic clips and pull off the plastic cover.


Use a 10mm socket to remove the 3 nuts holding the mirror assembly to the door.
After the 10mm nuts have been removed the mirror is disconnected from the door so hold on to it or it could fall off


On the bottom of the mirror you’ll have to lift up some tape to reveal 3 torx bolts. Use a T-25 to remove them.


Once the torx bolts have been removed you can pull apart the assembly. This will make it easier to feed the wire through as shown below.


I left about 6 inches in the mirror and reassembled the mirror.
Strip the insulation and crimp on the Quick Disconnects. I am using 3/16” female connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Now you are ready to reinstall the mirror assembly.

Feed the two wiring harnesses into the door.
Hold the mirror assembly up to the door and tighten down the 3 10mm nuts you removed earlier.

You can now reconnect the mirror and door wiring harnesses.

Next you’ll need to remove the rubber boot on both ends and feed the 2 wires through the hole in the door as shown.


Tape the end of the 2 wires to a wire coat hanger or something similar.


Carefully push the metal rod through the boot.


After you’ve pushed the metal rod through the boot you can remove the tape.

You’ll want to hold onto the wire and pull the metal rod back through the rubber boot.

Pull all the wire through the boot and feed it into the hole in the cab.

You can now reseat the rubber boot on both ends.

Disconnect the door and main wiring harnesses.



Use needle nose piers to pull the blue wire out of the connector.
Pin 8 on the driver’s side. Pin 6 on the passenger side.

Strip the insulation and crimp on male Snap connector.

There will be excess wire from the wires you fed into the cab.

You’ll have to measure how much wire you’ll need and cut off the excess.

Cut back enough electrical tape to run the wires.

Strip the insulation off the ends and crimp on a female snap connector on the red wire.

The black wire will need a ring terminal.

I used a No. 3/8”. I know it’s meant for 12-10 AWG but I could not find one for 18 AWG that would fit my needs.

Just make sure it’s crimped on tight.

Connect Snap Connectors.

You’ll want to remove one of the 12mm bolts near the connectors to attach the ring terminal to it.

Driver’s side


Passenger side



Reinstall the floor panels you removed.

Reassemble the door..


You can now install the mirrors. There is no polarity so it does not matter where you put the wires.


After you’ve placed the mirrors you can now test them.

You will be able to feel them get warm.


If you have any questions you can either post a reply or send me a PM.
 

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good job, be careful though, you about to be voted the official how to thread and pic member. I like the add in arrows and tagging. Now you need to do a thread on this as well, that is unless you want to do all the install guides...........:goodjob: Iam glad you posted part number I went down to Nissan today and they didn't have but 1 part number for mirror glass and we pulled off the shelf and they were not heated(nor hidden) even using Sean's vin.
 

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damn thats one impressive write-up. go to boeing or airbus an apply for a job as a tech writer.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
brutal said:
good job, be careful though, you about to be voted the official how to thread and pic member. I like the add in arrows and tagging. Now you need to do a thread on this as well, that is unless you want to do all the install guides...........:goodjob: Iam glad you posted part number I went down to Nissan today and they didn't have but 1 part number for mirror glass and we pulled off the shelf and they were not heated(nor hidden) even using Sean's vin.
OH man, I don't think I could write a "how to" on how to do a "how to". lol



westcoastie said:
damn thats one impressive write-up. go to boeing or airbus an apply for a job as a tech writer.
I used to work in manufacturing where one of the things I did was to write tech documents. So I think that helped in giving me an idea on how to write this up. I was getting a headache toward the end of it so if anything seems unclear just send me a PM.
 

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Very good write up. Thank you for contributing to the club I know a lot of people have been wondering about this problem for a while now.
 

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MB_NISMO said:
I used to work in manufacturing where one of the things I did was to write tech documents.
hah! I knew it! :) I used to work in R&D for a computer company so I have seen lots and lots of engineering change orders. Most of them were *not* as well written as yours.

this is a great mod, I will put it on my list. thanks!
 

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looks good
 

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excellent write up. i am defintiely doing this
 

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Impressive Write up and pics, Congrats, you get post of the year in my book, and I already have the heated mirrors.
When are you going to do the 2* timing advance and write up?
 
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