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This thread details how to splice in a new aftermarket trailer plug using the factory Y harness.

Like many of you out there, shortly after I got my truck I broke the factory 7 pin trailer plug while off roading. The combination of location and poor construction means it does not live a long and prosperous life.

Rather than spending the $70 at the dealer for a new Y harness and plug, I decided to just use an aftermarket plug. I had 3 reasons why I did this, first off I don't like to spend more than necessary and this was only $20. Second, the harness was still good, only the plug got munched. Third, I found a nice aftermarket plug that had both the 7 pin connection and the 4 pin in one unit. I thought this was cool as you don't have to carry around a 7-4 pin adapter.

Once I received the new plug from Amazon I needed to figure out the color coding of the factory Y harness. Stupidly, I threw out the broken plug shortly after I broke it. If you still have your mangled one hold on to it as you can easily use it to mirror the wiring to the new plug. If not, you can just follow my diagram below.

Y harness with trailer plug side cut off:


If you want to confirm my wiring please feel free. I am about 98% certain it is correct though. I found the pin out from the FSM Here starting on page 103

Here is a standard 7 pin chart: http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/pics/f/a/faq043-vehicle7waydia-ver2_2_800.jpg

This is the new plug I used:
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-Towing-Solutions-47185-Multi-Tow/dp/B0002Q80GS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473546899&sr=8-1&keywords=multi+tow+adapter

Step 1)
Remove factory Y harness from truck and bring to bench. Lay under the hitch and on the drivers side near the spring shackle you'll see two connectors. Disconnect both and cut any cable ties holding the harness in. Disconnect the old trailer plug from harness and set aside.

Step 2)
Cut off the old trailer plug connector (the big one, NOT the 2 smaller ones) leaving about 3" of wire left on plug in case you need to revert back for whatever reason. Strip each wire about 1/8-1/4" and twist ends to prevent fraying.


Step 3)
Open up new trailer plug and cut all wires to same length (about 12"-18"). If you got the same one I used this will mean cutting off the 4 pin plug and a few of the crimps provided.

Step 4)
Connect two harnesses together. I chose to crimp using waterproof crimps but you can also solder and heat shrink if you'd like.If you are looking for good crimps, I've found that Harbor Freight's are top notch surprisingly. They are good quality and are heat shrinkable to make them water tight.




As for the connections, assuming you bought the same plug as I did the colors are as follows:

Facing the front of the connector, the pins are numbered counterclockwise starting at about 11 o clock with the notch down. Pin 7 is the center.

Plug Side Truck Side
Pin 1 Brake (Blue)--------------------->Red
Pin 2 Right Turn (Green)-------------->Green
Pin 3 Aux Pwr (Black)----------------->Blue
Pin 4 Tail Light (Brown)--------------->Brown
Pin 5 Left Turn (Yellow)--------------->Yellow
Pin 6 Ground (White)------------------>White
Pin 7 Reverse (Purple)---------------->Black

Step 5)

Once all the connections are made, give the new harness a good factory style electrical tape wrap to keep things neat.



That's really it. You can now plug it back in and mount the plug using the supplied bracket or follow the hitch plug relocation mod as I did.

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f23/hitch-plug-relocated-bumper-30484/



Enjoy!
 

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Mrs. Cusser has a 2005 Yukon and our oldest has a 2015 Chevy Silverado, and both are used for towing horse trailers with electric brakes. From your link it looks like the 7 flat-pin connectors can be wired in different ways, depending on application.

I'll confirm that their two are as follows:

1 white ground (GD)
2 blue electric brake controller (EB)
3 brown taillights and running lights (TM)
4 black 12 volt positive/auxiliary
5 yellow left turn and brake
6 green right turn and brake
7 (center) purple reverse light

And 1 through 6 do not go in order around the circumference either.
 

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Update: Always something. Mrs. Cusser forgot to loop the wire cable around the trailer jack, at least three wires were damaged. Anyway, cabled wires were too long, so better shortened one foot anyway. Didn't have yellow butt connectors here, so soldered the two large wires and used blue butt connectors for the others.



Photo of junction box "before".


I will report that Mrs. Cusser's horse trailer has RED wires for left turn signal though !!! And that the black 2 volt positive wire connects to an orange wire in the junction box.
 

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I am unable to see the initial posts pictures due to the "3rd party..." but I would really like to as I only have the 4 pin and would like to figure out how to wire in the 7 pin. Anyway we can get the photos working? Or is it just me?
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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Just be forewarned that if you don't get the relays that go under the passenger side kick panel you will very likely blow fuses when pulling a trailer. I know from first hand experience trying to use the method above. Those relays are the reason the kit from Nissan costs more.
 

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Just be forewarned that if you don't get the relays that go under the passenger side kick panel you will very likely blow fuses when pulling a trailer. I know from first hand experience trying to use the method above. Those relays are the reason the kit from Nissan costs more.
Well to be fair, this write up was more aimed at folk who broke the factory connector and did not want to replace with the same costly poor design. Rather, they wanted to do the bumper relocation mod with a better and cheaper connector. It is assumed that the relays were already in place as you previously had the tow package installed, not that you are adding the connection for the first time.
 

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Well to be fair, this write up was more aimed at folk who broke the factory connector and did not want to replace with the same costly poor design. Rather, they wanted to do the bumper relocation mod with a better and cheaper connector. It is assumed that the relays were already in place as you previously had the tow package installed, not that you are adding the connection for the first time.
Ah. Gotcha. Then yes, your way is better.
 

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everything is the same on mine except no purple wire. i have a white wire, a blue wire, a red wire, a black wire, a yellow wire, green wire, and a light brown wire. and this is the harness i got from the factory.
 
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