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Front + Rear Differential &&& Transfercase Fluid Change on 05+ Gen 2 Frontier

Materials For Differentials: 1 & 3/4 Pints Front Gear Oil (GL-5 Spec 80w-90 Synthetic), 3 & 3/8ths Rear Gear Oil For C200 Differential (GL-5 Spec 70w-90 Synthetic) and 4 and 1/4 Pint For M226’s (GL-5 Spec 75w-140 synthetic), 2 1/8 quarts Transfer-case Lube (Nissan D-Matic, as required by FSM) I used my Amsoil Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid (meets D, J and K-Matic Specs), 10mm & 14mm Allen Wrenches (Note: the m226 requires a 3/8" square drive for both the fill and drain plugs), drain pan, and various funnels ( you could even use a fluid pump).

REAR DIFFERENTIAL:

Step 1. I started on the Rear differential (C200), first break loose the fill plug using the 14mm Allen wrench. I’ve seen these stripped out or froze up too many times to check them last after the fluid has been drained, we were unable to refill! So break that thing loose first.



Step 2. Use the 10mm Allen wrench to break loose the Drain Plug. Get your drain pan setup and ready to receive oil. Finish unscrewing the drain plug and let that drain. Watch out for the sealing washer on it, I almost lost mine.

Step 3. While it’s draining don’t forget to wipe that MAGNETIC drain plug clean!! Just watch how many uglies come off of it! Mine wasn’t too terribly bad, but afterwards it was good as new. Solvents can be used, but it’s not imperative.

Step 4. Re-install the drain plug and torque it down (make sure the washer is on it!).

Step 5. Remove the Fill plug. Use your required gear oil to fill the differential. For C200 diff’s use 3 & 3/8ths Pint GL-5 Spec 75w-90 Synthetic. For M226 use 4 & 1/4 Pint GL-5 Spec 75w-140 Synthetic. Fill em up! The fill plug doesn’t have a sealing washer for my C200 diff. When the oil starts to run back out of the Fill Hole you can re-install the fill plug.



Step 6. Use the 14mm Allen to re-install the Fill Plug. Torque it down too.

Step 7. Wipe the differential clean and make sure it’s not leaking. If anything is leaking you can use an application specific RTV on the threads, but it shouldn’t take much. Sometimes it can be as simple as the plugs not being tight enough. That’s it for the rear!!


FRONT DIFFERENTIAL:


Step 1. Since Im not lifted I opted to put my truck on ramps. Jack stands work just the same, just be sure to Chock the rear tires and Set the Parking Brake. We wouldn’t want the truck rolling/falling down on you!!

Step 2. Again, start by breaking loose the FILL PLUG using the 10mm Allen wrench, it will be used on both FILL and DRAIN plugs for the FRONT DIFFERENTIAL.



Step 3. Break loose the DRAIN plug using the 10mm Allen wrench. It’s located on the driver’s side just under the CV output. Get the drain pan ready to receive and finish unscrewing the drain plug and let it drain. Be careful not to lose the washer/seal that is on it. Mine was stuck to the pumpkin and I had to pry it out.



Step 4. Its time to clean the Magnetic Drain Plug again. Just wipe it clean and make sure there aren’t any metal fragments. That would be…Bad. Luckily mine was good, just the normal wear/tear. You can use solvent’s if you choose, but it isn’t necessary.

Step 5. Re-Install the Drain Plug (making sure the sealing washer is on it). Now torque it down too.

Step 6. Use the required fluid (1 & 3/4 PINTS GL-5 Spec 80w-90 Synthetic) and fill her up. I don’t think I used a full 1 & 3/4 Pint on it but close. When it starts to flow out of the fill plug is when you know its full, now quickly put the fill plug back in (making sure the sealing washer is on it).

Step 7. Now torque that Fill Plug down!

Step 8. Wipe her clean and make sure there are no leaks.



Edit here:
I forgot to add, When I drained my rear diff fluid, it was pretty much good. I could have pushed it another 30k mi. But I wasnt about to do that since I had alloted this be its renewal time. The front on the other hand was slightly darker in color, and had some debris in the oil as it drained. After sifting through it it didnt seem metalic (as it would have been stuck to the magnet) but rather like dirt/burned oil/old sealant.

Thats it for this post, It will only let me do 25 Pictures per post. The transfer case will be in the next post!!!
 

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TRANSFER CASE

Step 1. While the truck was still on the stands I used my same 5gal. bucket that already had old transmission fluid in it to relieve the transfer case’s in. So have a bucket/drain pan ready.

Step 2. Using the 10mm Allen wrench, break loose the Fill Plug.



Step 3. Using the 10mm Allen wrench, break loose the Drain Plug. Get the bucket/pan ready and unscrew the Drain Plug.

Step 4. While it’s draining wipe clean the Magnetic Drain Plug. Mine had more metal shavings on it than did both front and rear diffs.

Step 5. Re-Install the Drain Plug and Torque it down (making sure the sealing washer is on it).

Step 6. Unscrew the Fill Plug. Using the required Automatic Transmission Fluid (2 & 1/8ths QUART Nissan D-Matic) Fill her up. I used my Amsoil Universal Automatic Transmission Fluid (it covers D, J and K-Matic Specs). This is where a small fluid pump or something like that would come in handy. Well, Shiner here didn’t have anything like that. So I used my ghetto skills and ninja’d out this funnel using a Malibu Coconut Rum bottle and some other sort of plastic thingy taped to it. It was a MOTHER to fill! I got fluid everywhere. So I highly recommend using some sort of pump to do it, I know I will next time.



Step 7. Re-Install the Fill Plug (making sure the sealing washer is on it), and torque it down.

Step 8. Wipe it down and check for leaks! Mine was good to go.



Edit for this post too: Forgot to mention about the T-Case fluid.. This stuff was YUCK as I drained it. It wasnt quite as burned and nasty as my transmission fluid, but you could tell it was a little overdue! No debris in this one like the front diff. Fluid was clean as it drained, but used. I think I'll do the T-case every 30k when I do the transmission service.

After everything is double checked and out from under the truck, it’s safe to say you can drive it off the ramps (don’t forget the chocks!). After this I took it for a normal spin around the block to work things in again. After arriving home I double checked all the fluid levels to make sure they were full and where they needed to be. If you have to top them off, Do it.

If I missed anything, Voice out!

Shiner
 
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Discussion Starter #4
thanks IYF1650. I kinda figured people who havent done it before wouldnt mind the extra pics.
 

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thanks IYF1650. I kinda figured people who havent done it before wouldnt mind the extra pics.
cute fingernails btw. paint them yourself?

yes, hopefully with the pictures, people will realize its fairly simple job and avoid getting raped by the dealer for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
yeah i dont think it cost me more than 30bucks for all that stuff. The full synthetics were moderately priced.

Oh yes, those fingernails. Naw she paid to have them done. She was actually dirtier than I was!! Which is normal for her. I swear, if she opens a thing of paint, leave the immediate area as you will have paint on you too! But.. I am the one who told her to do them Zebra Striped!! I swear she looks like a pole dancer sometimes :D
 

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Very nice!

So how many ATF quarts you got left? enuff for power steering fluid change, lol!

That red "bloody" looking hand is just in time for halloween.

I have something like this for those hard to reach places. Got mine from pepboys.

Amsoil gear oil pump
 

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Discussion Starter #8
hahahah I was TOTALLY thinking the same as I posted that ATF covered hand!!!

hmm.. 12.5 quarts... minus 4.5 for the trans... minus 2&1/8 for the tcase.. I should have enough. I think ive got like 5 full ones left. Cant remember. Im also not sure what Power steering fluid it requires, but i know mine is BLACK and Nasty!

Sticky worthy?
 

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definitely sticky worthy! i believe the power steering uses ATF.

mods, please make this a sticky (dont delete the bloody hand!)...
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Heck yeah! Well, the FSM just says use nissan power steering fluid. To be honest, Amsoil would work just fine in it. The amsoil stuff is just absolutely amazing. My steering has gone to the flies lately. I just might consider doing it. I mean... the fluid is black and burned... :D Maybe after Wed.. I still have 3 more write ups I need to post!



Uhg.. I wish I had that when I was doing the T-Case. it was the only one that needed it. The others were a snap!
 

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oh yeah, sorry about that, i meant you could use Amsoil ATF.

that pump is also useful to remove overfills too.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Shoot there we have it, Shiner is getting a Hand Pump.. Dear lord that sounds bad. Knowing Amsoil.. I could probably run it in anything LOL
 

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I do this type of thing every day being a gear head for the army. I must say its like text book directions with pictures.... great write up. The only bit of advice i can give it use thread tape on the drain plugs.
 

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Allot of good info, and thanks for the pictures. A question i have is, i noticed the laser thermometer, what are the reasons to take the temperature before starting to change the fluids? sorry if you covered it in your thread, i might of missed it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I do this type of thing every day being a gear head for the army. I must say its like text book directions with pictures.... great write up. The only bit of advice i can give it use thread tape on the drain plugs.
thank you sir! The only reason I didn't use teflon tape or any other sort of sealing tape is all the other drain/fill plugs had their own seals. So there really wasnt a need

Allot of good info, and thanks for the pictures. A question i have is, i noticed the laser thermometer, what are the reasons to take the temperature before starting to change the fluids? sorry if you covered it in your thread, i might of missed it.

haha no i never mentioned why I used it. Just to check to see normal operation temp like before and after. Not to mention that when I drain it, Id like to NOT get scalded LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Is it recommended that you change any or all of these fluids at operating temperature or when they are cold.
For gear oil, since its its s0ooo0oo thick, i prefer to heat it up since it since it drains easier, but its totally not needed. it just takes a while to flow out when its cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
nice writeup shiner
Thanks HKY! Vote for a sticky :)

Does anyone want me to show how to service a front drive shaft? I think im going to take a look at mine. Its getting a little noisy
 
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