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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This thread will help you find and choose the various parts needed to complete your swap as well as give you an idea of what it will cost.

Intention of the thread is to compliment these threads:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f26/updated-suspension-lifts-body-lifts-2005-please-read-before-posting-here-63966/
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f26/travel-numbers-88209/
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f26/titan-swap-front-end-suspension-install-pics-13061/
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f26/titan-swap-how-video-86657/
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f26/comprehensive-front-lift-installation-instructions-2005-frontiers-136410/

As you probably know by now a T swap is really cool and consists of the following:
2wd:
Titan UCA (stock or aftermarket)
Titan LCA (stock or aftermarket)
Longer Tie Rods (titan inner and outer or tie rod extensions)
Extended Brake lines
Alignment cams
Wheel spacers for the rear

4wd:
Same as above plus:
Extended axles shafts or Titan front diff and Titan half axles

*Note: You can do a T-swap with any coilover that will bolt into a Frontier, but will not reap all the benefits until you use a t swap specific coilover.

Now that is just a general list, below is a breakdown of of each component and the offerings available as well as a price for each

-Most parts can be found used!! Save some money and poke around below before buying new.
http://www.titantalk.com/forums/buy-sell/ (used)
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f114/ (used)
http://www.thenewx.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=46 (used)
Car-Part (used)

Titan UCA

-Stock-
$25-$50 used, $80-$180 new per pair
Stock Titan arms can be found pretty easily and for very little money typically. The downside is that your really don't gain all that much travel if you already have an Extended travel setup as this arm will still hit the coil bucket at full droop (see This thread). This is by far going to the cheapest route and is where you'll save the most money if doing the swap. If you do find a used set make sure the ball joints are good as its really not cost effective to replace them (although can be done).
Rock Auto (new)


-Budget Aftermarket-

There are a few that fit in this one. Benefit to these arms is that they will provide more travel than stock titan arms but for less than the high dollar arms. Downside is that they still don't provide the maximum potential possible, wheel travel is between stock and high dollar arms and some still don't clear the coilbucket completely.

Rough Country $299
Of the Budget arms, these are probably the best ones to go with. Not as beefy looking as high dollar arms, no adjustability, still hit the coil bucket lip. Many titan owners grind some of the coil bucket lip off to gain another 1/2" or so of droop. Greg claims that the camber will still be off with these arms. Early 2nd generation arms on Titans had issues with ball joint failing, appears that it has been fixed though. Have greaseable replaceable sealed ball joints and available from a few different sources. Sealed ball joint will last longest in poor climate areas.
PRG
Rough Country
Amazon


Ebay TC Clone $250 (More like $350-$400)
These have had mixed results among the Titan and T swap crowd... Some will say they are great other will say they are POS, I'm neutral towards them. After working with them for a bit to make them not china garbage, they have treated me well. Biggest issue with them is that they use cheap Chinese Uniballs and they wear out FAST, like in a matter of weeks. Count on replacing them with good ones (SKU: FK WSSX-16T or AIN-16T, ~$45 ea) these can be sourced from Greg at PRG among other places. The hardware they come with is also not very good, the misalignment spacers feel like plastic and the bolt appears to be unrated (dangerous). I replaced the hardware in mine with the stuff that Greg uses in his arms (top notch quality stainless steel spacers, grade 8 bolts, $50). The best thing these arms have going for them is that they are a clone of Total Chaos arms (high dollar) at about half the price. So if you change out the uniballs (pain in the arse, go rent ball joint press for this) and buy new hardware, they can be decent arms. Will also provide more travel than the Rough Countrys (~1" more droop), but have exposed uniball which is bad for poor climate. They align very well on a t swap, but not so good on Titan strangely.
No link as the ads change often, look for Freedom Suspension on eBay.

Tuff Country $367
Use greaseable ball joints, poly bushings. Only a few places seem to sell them, Suspension Connections has correct info about them. P/N: 50939.

-High Dollar-
Quite a few to pick from at time of writing. These arms are the best of the bunch, will provide the most travel possible out of a T swap, and give the best alignment.

PRG $619 new, $300+ used
These are the tried and true original performance heimed t swap arms. Many people have these and have little issues (if any). Use quality uniballs and hiem joints with full rebuild kits available, great customer service. Will easily be able to sell down the road if needed and more likely to find a used set as they have been around the longest. Some complain of squeaks from these arms. As of Sep 24 2015, you should be able to order these arms with sealed ball joints instead of uniballs with a cost reduction. This option is not on the website site but can be ordered by phone.


Dirt King $650 hiemed, $499 bush
These are equal in quality to the PRG arms and many actually prefer them over PRG arms due to shipping times. Nice thing about Dirt King is they offer two options for their arms, a uniball + hiem option and a bushing + ball joint option. The hiemed option gives the best alignment possible due to being adjustable but the hiems and uniballs and not as weatherproof. The bushing/balljoint arm has been built to align well but will not allow any adjustment from there. The bushings/balljoints will hold up much better in weather though. Its also about $150 cheaper.
Hiemed Version $650
Bushing/Balljoint version $499

SPC $519
Brand new arm to the market. One piece forged arm using fixed bushings on the frame side and a greaseable adjustable ball joint on the spindle side. Would appear to be the poor weather best choice.

NEWCJD $600(tube), $750 (boxed)
Available in Tube or Boxed style. Both use heim inner joints and uniballs. Both are quality specimens with the boxed version being unique in the field. Boxed will be stronger than comparable tube arms and add style that differs from other arms.
Tube
Boxed

Calmini $600
These have had a good amount of fitment issues due to bad QC. Calmini also has notoriously bad customer service, making a promising looking arm not all that great. Made from 1.5" tube, have a sealed replaceable ball joint, adjustable hiems for alignment, integrated bumpstop. I wouldn't recommend these though as there are better ones for nearly the same price.

Camburg $699
Similar to Total Chaos, use 1" FK uniballs with greaseable urethane bushings

Total Chaos $680
The original bushing arms. Don't yield quite as much travel as some of the others and have complaints of bushing squeak. Fully rebuildable and dependable arm still.

4x4 Parts $680
Bushing style arm with uniballs. Look very similar to first gen Total Chaos Arms and the TCCs but have a bump built into the arm. Rebuild kits available

Metal Worx $600
A newer arm that is starting to show up over on Titan Talk. Seems to have a good mix of features for a competitive price. Very stout looking as 1.5" tube is used vs 1.25" used on most others. Uses ballistic joints vs uniballs or balljoints, which have better strength and durability according to them. Seem to be well liked among the Titan crowd.

Fabtech $650
Bushing style arm with "American made" 1" uniballs. Uses chromoly pins rather than rated bolts for the unibals.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Titan LCA

-Stock- $75-$150 used, $150-$300+ new
Most people (pretty much everyone) use stock Titan LCA's. You can go used or new with these. Be mindful of mileage and age with used as the bushings and balljoints may be shot, although this is not a deal breaker if the price is right. You can buy and install new heavy duty ball joints (~$80) and delrin bushings ($170) to make the stock arm pretty stout. Some choose to cut off the sway bar end link mounts for a cleaner look. Factory bump stop mounts right up no problem.
Ask @Nomad 13 about DIY strengthening plates for added beefyness! HERE
Rock Auto (new) (arms and ball joints)
Delrin Bushings
Polyurathane Bushings (Offset and Extreme Offset for better alignment also available)

-Dirt King- $1425
Boxed construction, come with delrin bushings, HD ball joints, bump can striker, and limit strap tabs.
Dirt King LCA

-PRG- $1099
Built by CJD, fully boxed and have built in limit strap tabs and bump can striker. Have delrin bushings and uniball outer joints (stronger and allow for more movement than ball joints). Also have angle built into the arms to help reduce binding at full droop
PRG LCA
NEWBuy direct from CJD

Tie Rods

-TREs- $90 new
These are a threaded extension that goes between the inner outer tie rods to make you Frontier tie rods match the new wider Titan track width. These are strong and I think I've only ever heard of one person breaking them. Most typically buy these to start out but eventually change to Titan inners and outer down the line as they are stronger. Good chance if you watch long enough you might be able to score some of these used for cheap.
PRG TREs
4X4Parts
Parts - Nissan Frontier Forum (used/new)
For Sale - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+) (used/new)

Note: If buying new you can save a little money by buying these in a package with Ext brake lines for $150 from PRG.Here

-Titan Inner and Outer TRs- $100-$150 new
Better than doing the extension, but not as strong as outer hiem steering. The Frontier inner ball joint has been know to separate from its socket if pushed to its limits, changing to the larger and stronger Titan components help strengthen up your front end. Also if your truck is up there in mileage go this route as it will refresh your steering in the process. I wouldn't recommend going used with these as they are typically worn out or near to it. You will need a left and right outer and two inners.
Rock Auto Tie Rods

-Outer Hiem Steering- $189-225 new
Replace the outer tie rods with a machined extension that uses a hiem joint. Very strong and adds even more alignment adjust ability.
PRG $189
Dirt King $225
4x4 Parts (Dirt King) $220
NEW CJD $200


-Full Hiem Steering- $varies$
If your truck is more a toy than a street vehicle or you plan on running any kind of off road race, this is what you want. This will replace both inner and outer tie rods with hiem joints to eliminate the risk of separating the ball from the socket on the inner joint (has happened a few times when being pushed hard). This will introduce more bump steer and the spindle may need to be modified.READ THIS THREAD FIRST
Camburg Clevis Only- $199
Dirt King Clevis Only $185
NEW CJD Full Bolt on Kit $450

Extended Brake Lines
Your stock front lines will be too short, if you want to stop you need longer ones. There is a big debate about stainless steel braided lines and rubber lines for valid reasons. You can decide what works better for you. The meat of the debate: Uncoated stainless lines allow unseen dirt through the braiding and allow it to rub on the inner teflon line until it eventually ruptures, because of this its recommended to change stainless lines every two years, also expensive. Rubber lines, although not as stiff and cut resistant, allow you to see any issues before your brakes fail completely, also much cheaper. Again these sometimes show up used from $40+
You want 19" front lines for most T swaps, if you have a drop bracket or spindle lift in addition you want longer 25".

-PRG Ext SS Lines- $90
They are stainless GoodRich lines, UNCOATED

-4x4 Parts Ext SS Lines- $60

Parts - Nissan Frontier Forum (used/new)
For Sale - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+) (used/new)

-Rubber Brake Lines- >$90
To my knowledge, as of now nobody makes extended rubber lines for our trucks. Any Hydraulics shop should be able to make you some though. Parker Store comes to mind.

Alignment Cams
These are needed with pretty much any lift that you do to the truck. They are installed where the LCA bolts go and allow for more adjustment of camber and caster. Unless you have an early build 2005 you probably don't have these from the factory so aftermarket is really the only choice. Any cam bolt set for a Titan, Armada, 05+ Frontier, 05+ Xterra, or 05-12 Pathfinder will work.

PRG $70
Rock Auto $20-$40
Nisstec $56
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Keeping your 4x4
If you are 4x4 and want to stay that way your t swap just got considerably more expensive. ONLY two options to keep it, extended axles or m205 swap.

-Extended Axles- $680 new (comp, Nisstec) $199-450 new (shafts only, Rugged Rocks, PRG), $300+ used
These are custom made half shafts made by Sway A Way procured by PRG and Nisstec. PRG only sells the shafts which require you to disassemble your current half axles and reassemble them with the new shafts. This is a messy job that is a bit time consuming but not too hard. If you'd rather just have something ready to install get the Nisstec complete axles, these are more expensive and require you to send back your stock axles as a core. Both options suck, but that's the deal. Rugged Rocks will be offering extended shafts for $199 starting Oct 30, 2017, adding a third option and undercutting the competition. This will hopefully drive down the cost of the other vendors. NO, aftermarket shafts will not work. These do pop up used on occasion so you might be able to snag a set. It should also be noted that the stock r180 diff is not all that strong and if you are hard on your truck while wheeling you might want to just swap in a m205. The spiders break and split the case usually after re gaining traction suddenly after front wheel spin. This can be remedied by installing a front locker as its the carrier spider gears that are the weak point. The Lokka locker ($400) is a common add. Although now you will breaking CV joints under the same situation. Rumor had that it was possible to use Titan axles and swap the inner CVs for the stock Frontier units when doing a swap using the R180 since the Titan axles are so much cheaper. I gave it a shot with some extra OEM parts I had laying around after my swap. Turns out the Titan axle shaft is a larger diameter, even at the splines, so it won't fit inside the Frontier CV. ONLY option for a t swap with the R180 is to use the SAW axle shafts. Same deal for swapping out the R180 for an M205 without swapping arms. ONLY option is the Pathfinder V8 shafts as the Titan CVs are too big for the Frontier length axles.

NEW Rugged Rocks Shafts Only $220--- Available 10/30/17
PRG Shafts Only $450
Nisstec Complete Half Axles $680
Parts - Nissan Frontier Forum (used)
For Sale - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+) (used)

-m205 Swap- $500-$1000
More expensive, but WAY stronger. Involves pulling out the stock r180 and replacing with the Titan front diff (m205), it bolts right in! Also allows you to use the stronger + cheaper Titan half shafts. You want to make sure that the ratio is the same as your rear diff, if you have an auto and the m226 rear end you want the diff out of a Big Tow Edition (3.36) Titan, Armada, or QX56. Prices vary depending of amount of miles and cost to ship. But figure about $400 to $800 for the diff. You also need Half shafts, figure another $100 for aftermarket shafts, more if you want OEM. There is an ARB locker for this diff but they only did one run so they will be hard to find as it was only a run of 50 or so.
Car Part Best bet at finding one
Titan Talk, Classifieds They pop up on here every now and then
CF Classifieds Also show up sometimes
TNX Classifieds Sometimes here as well
RockAuto Find your half axles here

Rear Wheel Spacers
These are somewhat optional as you don't really need these to function, they are more for looks. If you can't afford these right away its not the end of the world. These will space out the rear wheels to better match the wider front track width. Most will choose to run between 1.25"-2" spacers (even though the front is 3" over per side). The slightly narrower rear track is said to help initiate turning. You will only need two for the rear axle. Careful when choosing to run wheel spacers, many tire shops will refuse to work on your truck with the spacers. Don't cheap out here, you want the spacers to be hub AND lug/wheel centric. Bolt pattern you want is 6-4.5" or 6-114.3 mm. Also note that these are bolt on spacers, not slide over ones. These do show up used fairly often as well, so keep an eye out. For info regarding spacers and the differences between a cheap and good spacer, Click here
Used typically $50-$100
Parts - Nissan Frontier Forum (used/new)
For Sale - Second Generation Nissan Xterra Forums (2005+) (used/new)

Some trusted ones are:
WheelAdapter.com $365 per set (4) (1"-1.5") best
Motorsport-Tech $106 per pair (1.5")
EZAccessory.com $100 per pair (1.5")

Coilovers!
As mentioned before, you can use any coilover that bolts up to the Frontier coil bucket. Titan coilovers (OEM or Ext length) can also be used if you switch the top plates to match the Frontier coil bucket. But note that unless you use a T swap specific coilover with a high dollar arm, you'll never achieve maximum wheel travel. Its also recommended to have at least 1" of lift after completing the swap to minimize any potential tire rubbing. Be aware that a T swap by itself does not lift your truck, that's what the coilovers do.

-T swap specific-
These are coilovers designed just for a T swap. They are the correct length with the correct valving and will yield the most wheel travel out of what ever arm combo you choose (although max travel can only be achieved with a high dollar arm). These are all rebuildable by the maker or diy. Figure about $80 for a basic diy rebuild and close to $200 for a professional job.


Radflo 2.0TS IFP $789
This is the cheapest proven coilover you can buy designed for a T swap. They have a 2" diameter body and no res. Due to smaller oil capacity when compared to others, they are more prone to shock fade in high speed off road situations and are better suited for low-medium speed wheeling. Although, these will be a massive improvement over stock.
PRG
Nisstec

Radflo 2.0TS Remote $1138
Added high speed off road performance over IFP 2.0s due to added reservoir
Rugged Rocks

Radflo 2.5TS IFP $1250
Uses an internal floating piston but with a larger 2.5" body. Bigger bodied shocks will provide a more consistent feel and may ride better than a similar 2.0 shock. No reservoir on these, therefore some cost savings with only slight performance reduction (mainly effects prolonged high speed off road driving). Nice middle ground between 2.0s and 2.5s with remotes.
Rugged Rocks $1250

Radflo 2.5TS Remote $1349
A considerable step up in performance when compared to a 2.0. They have a 2.5" diameter body with a remote mounted res which provide more damping and better heat dissipation. These are more suited toward high speed off road driving but will still perform excellent in the slow stuff. Very comparable to the 2.5 SAWs, with a shorter wait time. $40 more gets you custom color powdercoated springs.
PRG


Currently not available.
Sway-Away 2.5TS Remote $1349
Nearly the same as the Radflo 2.5 above in all aspects but said to be a bit firmer valving wise. Red anodized body can turn to pink over time, longer wait time over Radflo.
PRG


Note: 11-12-17, Confirmed by Bilstein aftermarket product manager, Bilstein 6112 coilover for a Titan Swap is NOT happening.


-Budget T Swap Options-
While not the best solution, these will work and be better than most Frontier OEM/ext travel/spacer combo.

Gen 1 Tundra Coilovers* $50-$200 used, $250-400 new
Provide nearly the same wheel travel as any of the ones listed above at a fraction of the price. Performance obviously won't be at the same level as a true aftermarket coilover but will provide the lift and wheel travel you want. These are a great option if your looking for an OEM style coilover with excellent weather tolerance, a temporary coilover to use if you need to rebuild your performance ones, or if your just trying to get a t swap as cheap as possible. It's not like these are complete crap either, they actually work surprisingly well and perform better than many non t swap specific coilovers. Be sure to read THIS thread before buying anything though.


-Non-Titan swap coilovers that have been used with decent results-

Most of these were used in conjunction with a spacer on top to provide extra lift with less preload.
Radflo 2.0/2.5 std+Ext travel
SAW 2.0/2.5 std+Ext travel
TJM Ext Travel*
Bilstein 5100*

*Denotes strut type coilover, some have experienced broken shock shafts due to the extra angle in the tophat, use with caution*
Can use upgraded urethane top hat bushings for better shock response:
http://www.4x4parts.com/i-20946025-front-upper-shock-bushing.html

-Not Recommended Coilovers-
Stock Frontier*- Way under dampened, under sprung, bottom frequently, need a spacer .5" taller than desired lift, physically too short to get any kid of decent travel gain.

Stock Titan*- Too short, still need a spacer, must change tophat to Frontier one still, spring rate too high. Unless you just have these laying around or can get them for free, the Tundra coilovers are a much better option with the same amount of work.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Bump Stops
While the factory LCA bump stops do work, its a good idea to make sure that they still do their job of protecting your shocks from damage during those "OH SH#T!!!" moments. After a T swap its very likely that your shocks will bottom before the bump stop kicks in, resulting in the potential of blowing your shocks. There are essentially two types of bump stops, rubber/Urethane and air bumps (read about both here). Bump stops are a wise investment that can save you lots of headaches and dollars in the long run and they don't cost all that much. Options listed from worst to best.

Setting Up Bump Stops

OEM- >$10
If you can't/don't want to spend money on better bump stops you can make the stock ones work. You will just have to space them out a bit to make them seem taller. Some big washers from Home Depot can work. This can only go so far though as they come with a very short stud on the back that will only allow maybe a 1/4" of height gain. For most setups this will not protect your shocks properly (if at all) and will result in a jarring ride when you come down on them.

Traditional Rubber/Urethane- $10-$60
These are a step better as they allow you to actually set them at the correct height needed for your application. There are also quite a few different styles to pick from (temple, wedge, round, etc). Depending on the style you pick they will feel different when you land on them. Progressive ones will feel smoother than non progressive but will also engage sooner in the travel with can result in a firmer ride and/or less wheel stuffage. Its a trade off, do you want a jarring impact on bottom out or a smooth landing with less stuffage and slightly firmer ride? I'd say that if all you do is rock crawl and want all the flex possible a non progressive stop would probably be better. All you do is mob the desert at speed? Progressive is probably a better choice. Any you choose will need to have a stud attached if mounting in the factory location.

Energy Suspension Bump Stops

Improved Urethane Progressive Bump Stops (Micro-cellular foam)- $25-$200
These would be the middle ground between a traditional like above and air bumps. They will drastically reduce jarring on bottom out and give a sense of endless wheel travel. Only a few fit this category and they do cost a good bit more than traditional stops but are a modest improvement that will be noticed right away. Most will improve handling by reducing body roll. This type also engages much sooner in the travel at around 50% or more. It is also recommended to mount to the factory striker plate rather than in the factory spot on the LCA but can be mounted either way.

Timbrens- $215
SES- Increase load handling ability, improve ride quality, more of a helper part than a bump stop but many swear by these.
AOB- Active off road bump stop, progressive

Wheeler's SuperBumps -$60
Progressive stops that reduce body roll and many of the same things as the Timbren's at 1/4 the price. I have a set on my truck and like them alot.

NEWBelltech -$25
2" tall progressives that feel very similar to above at a dirt cheap price.

Air/hydro Bumps- $100-$2000
The ultimate in bottom out resistance, these are what you want if your pushing your truck hard or jumping. Most require custom mounting and modification of LCA to include a strike plate. May have to cut out factory striker plate. Many manufacturers to pick from, basically anybody that makes performance coilovers will also make these. A few member have these on their trucks, so take a look at some build threads. FrontierFreak7 has them for sure.

Poly Performance
Gives you an idea of cost and models.

-4x4 Parts, bolt on Front and Rear Hydro Bump Kit- $1650


Your T swap checklist:
Part:__________________High Example: Low Example:
UCA? ________________(PRG, $620) (Stock used, $40)
LCA? ________________(Stock new, $180) (Stock used, $100)
Tie Rod solution? ______(T in & out, $120) (Ext used, $60)
Extended Brake lines? __(Stainless, $90) (Stainless used, $40)
Alignment cams? ______(RockAuto, $25) (Factory installed, $0)
Wheel Spacers? _______(1.5" new, $100) (1.5" used, $80)
Coilover? _____________(Radflo 2.5TS, $1349) (Tundra coilovers, $100)
Bump Stop?___________(Air Bumps, $500) (Basic Urethane, $15)

4x4? (Y/N) ___________(Y) (N)
Ext axles or m205+axles? (m205+axles, $700)

Total cost: ______________( High: $3684) (Low: $435)

Q & As

-Can I still use my sway bar after I Titan swap?
No, but you can get a Titan Sway bar, endlinks, and bushings. Then bolt everything up after your swap. Most choose to not use a sway bar after swapping as the truck feels considerably more stable even without a sway bar.

-Can I still use the stock Frontier spindles? CST lift spindles? What about Titan Spindles?
Yes, all will work with the swap, Titan spindles require a bit extra*. The stock spindles work without issue on a T swap. CST lift spindles also work fine as long as you're only 2wd.
*Titan spindles also work as long as you switch to a Titan wheel setup as well (rotor, caliper, hubs, wheels 6x5.5). From the few people that have done this, the stock Fronty master cylinder does work with Titan brakes but the pedal feel is not as strong and they recommend using a Titan master cylinder (only works on autos, no manuals). Note that there are two different Titan rotor sizes by years, 04-07 had smaller rotors that need at least a 17" wheel and 08+ have bigger rotors that need at least a 18" wheel. If you want the bolt pattern to match front and rear, 6x5.5 adapters will be needed for the rear.

-Can I use a Titan rear axle instead of wheel spacers?
Yes, but it is not direct bolt on. The spring perches and shock mounts will need to moved in to accommodate the Frontier's narrower frame. This is the only way to get the rear track width to truly match the now wider front end. You will also need to be sure that the gear ratio is correct for whatever front diff you are using be it r180 or m205. You also will have to run titan wheels as the bolt pattern is now for a titan. I'd recommend only doing this if you are doing a complete titan drive train swap (front diff, spindles, brakes, axles, and now rear axle) that way its all matching titan stuff now.

-Will I need shock hoops for any of the coilovers listed? Has anybody done shock hoops?
No, for the ones listed no shock hoops are required. They are all bolt on.
Yes, a handful of users have done shock hoops with a good amount of success. Have a look at these for pics and info:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f103/2007-frontier-build-119658/
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f103/my-baby-raptor-167146/
 

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I fixed this.

I'll sticky this and clean up any clutter when it's a little more complete. Thanks for taking the time to put this together, glamisdude.
In the wheel spacers section I noticed you had a typo. You wrote "6x4.5" or 6x144.3" " instead of 6x4.5" or 6x114.3mm.
Almost there, adding the mm to the conversion instead of inches was 1 item..
The other item was size number, 6X144.3, it should be as Cstone wrote 6X114.3mm...

The line WheelAdapter.com link shows it as $365 a Pair..
It's actually for the Set...

No offense meant, just an observation..
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
^Noted and fixed (hopefully this time...) haha
Thanks for the heads up!

Edit: Also would anybody be opposed to me adding pics of each part? Would it make the thread to cluttered?
 

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Great info as I am soon going to start collecting the parts to do this. The only thing I can think of to add is the option of OEM Camber Bolts from Nissan, they are much better then the aftermarket ones.
 

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There are Dirt King and PRG Heimed Tie Rod extensions as options as well.

PRG Heim Steering

DK Billet Heim Steering

Dirt King is more expensive, but is made out of 6061 aluminum and has the wrench flats machined on.
 

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Thanks so much for this post I really enjoyed it! I'm new to the site but have been researching the T swap for quite some time now. My main question is: will I be able to use my stock frontier spindles while saving money to buy aftermarket frontier spindles? Or do I need to completely change the front end to Titan everything? (I assume not as there is no mention of that) thanks again for the *****en thread!!

-Michael
 

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Yes,you use your stock Frontier spindles.You need to buy axles if you are 4 wheel drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
^Added a section to the Q and A regarding spindles. If your not satisfied with whistler's answer have a look, it should address any other questions you might have about spindles.
 

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Axle section updated with the info I mentioned in my PM
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Added helpful link about different wheel spacer types and added non t swap and not recommended coilover section.
 

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3 Posts
year and model??

ive looked everywhere for this info and have had no luck I was wondering if there where certain year model titans to get the control arms from also does it mater weather its 2wd or 4wd ?? sorry if this is already answered somewhere I looked on multiple threads and came up dry.
 
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