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I am going to either run a 5 channel amp or a bridged 2 channel and a 4 channel for my 08 CC. How important are the quality of RCAs? I'm not going to go to Radio Shack and buy the $.10/ft RCAs, but are the $50 set of 10' RCAs really that important? I realize that shielding plays a part in noise, but if I get two moderate set of RCAs (Monster/Kicker/other name brand) that run ~$15-20 or are the $60 Monster Cables really necessary.

I'm running a Jensen VM9223 DVD receiver with an old MTX amp and MTX Thunderform Speaker Box, nothing too extravagant.:itsfriday:
 

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Some equipment, there's a dropoff and some there's not. That would be why I asked the question in the first place. Is there a noticeable dropoff in quality economical RCAs?

For instance, some people will buy HDMI cables for $50+, when there's no difference from the no-name cables on line than from teh 'top end' HDMI cables at your electronics store.
 

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I was not attempting to belittle your question, nor was I trying to agitate you. I simply stated that unless you are running high end equipment, impo, going to a high end cable makes little sense.

I will go back to my original post and explain the fact that this is purely based on my opinion.
 

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monster cables all your paying for is the name. they are no better than any RCA's out there. that being said, some of the best cables i have used have been cheapos that came with an amp wiring kit. go out and look at cables. you will see the difference. you dont need to spend $50-$75 on RCA's, you can get good sets for $20 give or take.
 

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overrated imo. Never had a problem using cheaper sub $10 cables and generic power wires no effect whether its "high or low end" system. Some people like to fall for "special" wires and cables and pay insane prices. Oxygen free, shielded, etc. all a scam.
 

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Agree with everyone so far.
As important as what cable used is where the cables are routed.
Power and signal cables need to be run apart/separate from each other or you are just asking for trouble.

All that being said, I never throw down the jack for those upper end RCAs and I've never regretted it, never once.

But then again, as someone mentioned, I'm not running $6,000 dollar competition systems with 30,000 watts either.
 

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only time i have ever seen a problem with running power, RCA's, and remote wires together were from people that used very cheap cables and power wires(usually the cheap unshielded stuff). i usually run everything together if i can and have never had someone come back saying they had alt. noise or any other kind of interference in there system. i have had some problems with the "high performance" plug wires and coils that are the cheap crap that places like auto zone sells to the wantabe ricers. usually it only required the replacement of the wires to an actually good set of plug wires and everything was back to nice and clean sound.
 

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For instance, some people will buy HDMI cables for $50+, when there's no difference from the no-name cables on line than from teh 'top end' HDMI cables at your electronics store.
dont know about rca but my hdmi cable cost me about 4 bucks and 5 days wait works good for what i use it for my xbox on my 46 samsung.. but if i had a blu ray or something like that i might up it and buy a more expensive one i want to try both and see if there is any difference between a high priced and one you pay 3 dollar shipping and 1 dollar for the cable.

sorry not trying to thread still kinda goes in the same category
:itsfriday::itsfriday:
 

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same for me. I always run rca and power together and never have had any noise issues except once due to a defective amp. Never understood those insisting running them on opposite sides of the vehicle nor those using power wires the size of your arm(0/1 gauge).
 

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i have plunked down the money for high dollar cables and im never going back to cheapies. its actually less about what you pay and more about the quality.

the shielding and grounding can improve quality. a properly run cheapo cable can do the same. however, in the automotive environment you are limited with what you can do. using a better cable gives you more margin of error so to speak. you can get away with running them closer to power wires or other sources of noise.

you also have to factor in your ears. some people can hear noise a lot better than others. so if your ears are picky, get the nice cables and make your life easier.

that being said, there are nice cables out there that arent 50+ dollars. these perform rather well, but the plugs are large. so check clearance behind your head unit before ordering. they were too big for my alpine, so i took the stinger expert rcas out of my other truck and moved them to the frontier.
Parts-Express.com:*SonicWave Analog Audio RCA Cable 12 ft.
 

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same for me. I always run rca and power together and never have had any noise issues except once due to a defective amp. Never understood those insisting running them on opposite sides of the vehicle nor those using power wires the size of your arm(0/1 gauge).
ToddG is right. These guys have been lucky not to have issues by running those wires together. I have witnessed many problems from this practice, particulary in older GM vehicles. Play it safe - run your power on one side and the RCA's on the other. It's not worth the risk to have to do it twice. And big $ cables are B.S. Buy decent quality, but don't go overboard. Monster cables and the like are a waste of money in my opinion. Route them right and you'll never have an issue.....
 

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ToddG is right. These guys have been lucky not to have issues by running those wires together. I have witnessed many problems from this practice, particulary in older GM vehicles. Play it safe - run your power on one side and the RCA's on the other. It's not worth the risk to have to do it twice. And big $ cables are B.S. Buy decent quality, but don't go overboard. Monster cables and the like are a waste of money in my opinion. Route them right and you'll never have an issue.....
luck has nothing to do with it. i have been doing car audio for over 15 years and have never had an install problem with running all the wires together. some of the GM problems were with the ignition systems which if you used shielded cables there were no problems.
 

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Make sure the RCA's are twisted. Doesn't matter if they're radio shack brand or not. Don't waste money on monster. Also, add an additional ground wire, nice size like a 10 guage, from the chassis of your radio to a good ground. Don't rely on the ground in the wiring harness of your radio. Use a good ground for your amp too. Don't just use a sheet metal screw in sheet metal, use something with some heft, like a seat belt bolt. And definitely clean up around the bolt hole with some sand paper too.

The MOST important thing about installing a stereo/amplifier is GROUNDING.

And don't waste a penny on gold plated RCA's unless your amplifier has gold plated plugs. Using a tin connector with a gold connector will cause galvanic corrosion (over a relatively long period of time in this type of situation) and there is ZERO sound change in gold vs. tin. Its a ploy to get your money.
 

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overrated imo. Never had a problem using cheaper sub $10 cables and generic power wires no effect whether its "high or low end" system. Some people like to fall for "special" wires and cables and pay insane prices. Oxygen free, shielded, etc. all a scam.
I agree.
 

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And don't waste a penny on gold plated RCA's unless your amplifier has gold plated plugs. Using a tin connector with a gold connector will cause galvanic corrosion (over a relatively long period of time in this type of situation) and there is ZERO sound change in gold vs. tin. Its a ploy to get your money.
gold does not corrode no matter what.
 

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gold does not corrode no matter what.
You're right. The more anodic metal of the two will corrode. Tin is more anodic. The tin corrodes, not the gold.

Here is some more information on it...
http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

Note that the interior of a vehicle would be classified as a "normal environment." In a normal environment, the anodic index should not exceel 0.25v, but tin vs gold is a difference of at least 0.6v, which exceeds the acceptable levels of even a controlled environment.

Many electronics failures are due to using a tin connector with a gold connector. If you check out electronic component manufacturers you'll see that a LOT of connectors come in tin plated options as well as gold plated options. You have to be diligent to match tin to tin and gold to gold. The reason for having gold and tin connections is due to multiple factors... tin is cheap, but soft and prone to fretting corrosion (basically getting rubbed off due to very small mechanical oscillations) while gold is more expensive but less prone to oxidizing and other forms of corrosion.

I'm an electrical engineer, which is why I know a little about electronics (not claiming to be a god or anything silly like that, but I do have some experience).

Galvanic corrosion is also why boats have blocks of zinc in them that need to be periodically replaced. The zinc acts as an anode and is corroded away. Underground storage tanks are the same way.
 

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trust me, i know all about galvanic corrosion. you should see the ambulances around here with AL bodies and stainless steel screws in a salt water environment.
 

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Long as wires are the proper impedance and capacitance theirs no reason to buy anything better. Same goes for home video/audio. There is no difference and even more so with things like HDMI where its a digital signal. Just goto a decent car audio place or go online and get some bulk rca wire and some ends cut it to length and solder on the ends. That's the recipe for the best install without wasting money.
 
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