Building a home-brewed intake for this application that out-performs the stock system will be a real challenge. Even if you manage to get the MAF sensor mounted into a tube, you'll have to get a high-flow filter mounted and isolated near a source of cooling air. If you leave it open in the engine compartment you'll just be gulping in superheated air--a mistake common to home-made intakes and cheap commercial units. By all accounts the stock box on this truck flows pretty darned well, and the stock filter doesn't seem to be very restrictive. I've done dyno tests that show that a drop-in K&N filter gets you absolutely no performance increase:SilverSE05 said:I took the intake apart and found that if I dont have the right mount for the MAF then it wont work. I can just cut the box and but the filter on but I would just rather buy one that fits the box. I am going to attempt to cut a hole for it to fit and mount properly. The problem is the mount sits up off the tube so that it can screw in. I need to do the same so that the screws are not through the tube itself. I am still working on it.
05_Nismo is correct--the aFe intake shield is designed to seat at or close to the hood, drawing air only from the opening in the fender. I am still skeptical about their horsepower claims, but I will do an independent dyno test as soon as I can get my hands on a kit. I can't over-emphasize the importance of getting the filter out of the super-heated engine compartment air--hot intake air is a real performance-killer.05_NISMO_4X4 said:I think the heat sheild actually seals against the hood when it's closed, leaving the air intake through the opening in the fender. It only looks open to the rest of the engine when the hood is raised. I maybe wrong, but that's how I pictured it working, Let me know if I'm off-base on this!