[Bille]

Hi folks,

Major problems pulling out the under hood fuses beneath the black cover.
'98 standard Fronty, 4 by' .

Trying to get out the big blue fuses closest to the fender side, they are supremely difficult to pull as is trying to lift the main fuse box.[has multiple lock tabs and sliders]

Wanting to pull the Clutch Relay mainly, to replace with another.
There is a thin plastic lock tab down along the side of fuse, I've pushed it back and pulled gently but the whole fuse unit won't budge! -- super frustrating.

^^ Reason:
All of a sudden went to a no start situation, had to go with cranking over with a squirt of fuel down carb - would run a minute, then after cranking a few times all is at the key now is no cranking at all, just a faint click in the dash.

I checked the 80 amp engine fuse, it appears good and lights up with continuity tester.

Only thing I can think of that suddenly frigged it, was putting a fresh charged battery in and just cross connected for an instant, 1 second, there was a big spark that warned I wasn't paying attention. What did I blow?

Any fellows have some guidelines , tips or tricks, please-- at my wits end and stuck for transportation.

 

[Bille]

Progress

Managed to pull the blue fuse, 'Clutch Relay' and inserted in the non starting truck, unfortunately still a no go.
Checked all smaller fuses, engine compartment and interior, all appear good.

Why now after it started fine all along, it has stopped in 2 stages, first cranking and starting only with hand fed gas and then minutes later stopped cranking altogether, with click sound around the steering column area when key turned to start.

A disappointing mystery.

 

[Roader]

Do you have a digital volt meter?

 

[Bille]

Yes, just got one.

Any suggestions what to test, where to test - how ?

Thanks for the reply!

* adding. Have a continuity, probe light tester, which was used for the fuse checks.

 

[Roader]

Since you've encountered two problems—no fuel and no cranking—I'd start at the battery. Measure the voltage between the two posts, then measure the voltage between the positive cable past the post and an engine ground. Then repeat when a helper is trying to crank the starter. What do you get?

 

[Bille]

Been testing. The battery has been charging overnight, an older battery, but still it was enough to turn the truck over and start it just a few days ago.
Testing at 13.9 right off the charger, at 12.6 in the truck with cables hooked.

Leaving battery cables attached, going from just positive and putting negative multi meter lead to a ground strap , getting about the same, 12.4 and 5's or so.
When key turned to crank position and held with multi meter leads still the same, drops about 1, reading 11. 15 to 55-- fluctuating a bit.

Note reminder: the truck does not turn over, the fuel pump is definitely coming on, can here it.
As mentioned we were trying it the other day with a bit of gas dribbled in carb and it did start.
Then while trying the third time the key went dead , no crank , just a click now.

 

[Roader]

Check voltage between the positive cable just past the post and the engine hook or any other metal part of the engine, both with and w/o the key turned to the start position.

 

[Bille]

Blizzard flurries then the negative multi lead broke solder connect, had to re-solder.

Doing as you say the readings are about 12.45[ fluctuating] down from 12.6 or so the longer it stays hooked up for this test.

Then when turning key hard to start, drops to about 12.10, then held on for ten seconds the .10 goes lower.
Putting these fluctuations down to a weaker older battery , but the test shouldn't be effected. It does show a drop in tenths.

later: Jacked up truck, will look at starter next.

 

[Roader]

Measuring the voltage from the starter big cable to the starter ground when the key is turned to start would be useful.

 

[Bille]

A break through, buddy came down with a broom stick, hit the starter as I turned the key.

How the fuel was fixed have no idea, must have been something I did through the day.

Now to pull the starter from the parts truck, test and likely put in my working truck.

Think there is just the two bolts , hope that is all, a tough place to access.

Thank you for the help, appreciated.

 

[Roader]

Classic broomstick starter fix. If you want a spare, perhaps there's an old-time automotive electrical rebuilder around who will fix your old one. It's a better bet than the typical auto parts store rebuild.

 

[Bille]

Yes indeed, know a fella still rebuilding starters and the like, will drop mine out, possibly take it there.
If parts available will do myself.

At least did not have to go further and learned some more things that could go wrong.

To be fair, the old truck set for 3 years before really being driven again.

The restore continues, soon a complete cab floor/rocker rebuild... ugh.