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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I have a new set of Coopers from them. They are decent. In for rotation an oil change. So, manager says at end of appointment. Need to R n R bearing, ball joints toast, boots ripped, ( I know this..re: balls joint creek as and moan but) But did not realize bearings need attention, I don't feel any issue when driving, at any speed, no pull, so question to friends here, is thus guy summer slow and seesme as a sucker? Or am I in imenant danger? Do I really need to get this bearing resolved to be safe ( tight financially, buy want to stay safe) and why did he write me $ 1600 quote. Need to do part research but he said control arms and ball joints all one unit in 2004s 2wd..might as well get it all done under there at once.
Guys I live in the 34232 area code of fla. And if you can do this work, and let me help and assist and learn, or know any one who can and needs work, I'd rather us than box stores who I distrust..early this year got hammered by AAMCO, and truck still misses.
Thanks for reading, upset about this and have lots on plate. We all do I know...arg! Would like to drive
truck to near part fail if that is safe, I want to drive 1000 mile or so road trip in a few weeks...fla to Carolinas and back, or drive to your place , property, car shop, hang out a few days and work on on my car..i am fair and have the cash..
Thanks, all reply's and suggestions will answered.
Ken.
 

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Get a 2nd opinion. Ask around for a trusted mechanic or a trusted shop, fwiw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I will do that , thank you kindly for the fast reply,, you people are good out here, appreciate it.

Thanks for the reply, appreciate that, I will look at the rock auto,, and others....and yes I am inclined that way....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you get a chance to help me understand something again,,,i don't understand the pricing on my quote vs the price and description on rock auto.

real example from my quote
Item Number.. ZP 12231 Discription BRG N41-BR37 FRONT INNER WHEEL BEARNING F .. QUANTITY 1 price EACH $51.63


THE front inner on rock auto is $2 What the F! is going on,,,

and the guy at the shop told me the ball joint only came in a control arm assy,,,, in 2004 , that is a out right lie.... so...

this quote has control arms at $319 each side

arg
 

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Tire Kingdom and the "smaller" chain oil change/service shops are absolutely WORTHLESS. Get in your truck, shift into drive and quickly speed away from those know-nothing mechanics and get a second opinion. Go to a trusted private shop, or a Nissan dealer for a true, honest diagnosis. Shops like Tire Kingdom, Firestone, Monroe, AAMCO, Tire Depot, Quick Lube, etc. all make their money off of "add on" service upgrades. They have corporate metrics that rate each of the stores on how many of the upgrades they can scare customers into per month, quarter, year, etc.

You'll notice that when you go into these shops for tires, oil changes or wiper blades, there is ALWAYS something else they find. The wheel bearing is bad. The water pump is falling off of the motor. Your shocks are worn out. They are worthless shops. Get away from there in a hurry.

Go to a Nissan dealer and have them do a multi point inspection (most Nissan dealers will do this for free). They have no incentives for up-selling you or lying to you.
 

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I can understand your frustration. I hate auto mechanics, but if you do not work on your own car then you have to pay someone to do so. Are you getting all new bearings (4x) and ball joints (4x), and CV boots (4x). That price seems about right. Shop rates typically are about $100/hr.

Now Lets break it down some. Ball joints. You can buy and replace individual ball joints. However it is very time consuming and you can possibly mess the the control arm when pressing the BJs in and out. Shops no longer replace BJs and pivot bushings. They simply replace entire control arms. In the long run it is cheaper this way.

Bearings. In recent years the auto parts industry has been flooded with cheap replacement parts. Some of them of decent quality some of them garbage. Rockauto for example categorizes their parts into Econo, Daily Driver, and Heavy duty/performance. I would NEVER buy the econo stuff. Rockauto also is a discounted retailer. No tax or shipping included in your price. Your shop most likely pays a premium of quality parts and service. The parts are probably delivered same day by a local vendor individually. So there is quite a mark up.

One way around this is to source your own parts and take it to a shop for installation only. Some shops do not allow this for good reason. YOu buy a crap part, it breaks in xxx miles, you are pissed and says the shop did a bad job and slander them on YELP. Or you buy a cheap or wrong part, your car is up on the lift, the part doesn't fit, they either have to take the time to modify the part to fit or put the car back together while the right part comes (eating the labor cost), or have the car on the rack for XX days while waiting for the right part.

I have been in your frustrated shoes before. My solution is to fix my own cars.
 

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That is a great post from Nissan4Life above with some good, honest information. I too do almost all of my own work, when I don't know something I YouTube it or jump on forums like this one. The beauty of the Frontier is that its build has been very similar for a number of years. YouTube search "Control Arm replacement on 20XX Nissan Frontier" and you will certainly find folks that have posted videos walking you through the repair.

If you have a Napa around, I'd go down there and talk to the guys behind the counter. Unlike AutoZone, Advanced Auto, etc., Napa has super quality parts and actually car guys and girls behind the counter (not uneducated children that you'' likely find at the other places). They too will have thoughts and suggestions and many of them do work on the side for cheap.

Go to a local Napa. Buy your replacement parts from them, network with the guys and talk to folks in the building. You might just get lucky.
 

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Now if you want to diagnose your issue. We can start with the wheel bearing. Jack up the wheel in question. Grasp the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock position. Rock the wheel. Can you feel play? If you can feel any play then the bearings are shot. Sometimes you can not feel play but the bearings are already done, they have not "given up the ghost" yet. Since the wheel bearing on the 2004 is not pressed into the hub, they can be individually replaced and possibly service. When I had my nissan hardbody truck it had that front end. I would repack the wheel bearings with grease and torque regularly. First is to make sure that the axle nut is on tight or at the right torque. The nut has a retainer, either castle nut with pin or a thin metal cover with tabs that bend and lock (can't remember then name now), are these devises present still? Is the axle nut loose.

The ball joint is harder to test. Ususualy it invloves jacking up the wheel and taking a pry bar under the tire and observe play in the BJ.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you very much. Kinda and Sage words if advice. I so wish I had the space to do this work. I am going to find a way to do it my self. I want to keep my truck..thanks again
Ken
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Now if you want to diagnose your issue. We can start with the wheel bearing. Jack up the wheel in question. Grasp the wheel at the 12 and 6 o'clock position. Rock the wheel. Can you feel play? If you can feel any play then the bearings are shot. Sometimes you can not feel play but the bearings are already done, they have not "given up the ghost" yet. Since the wheel bearing on the 2004 is not pressed into the hub, they can be individually replaced and possibly service. When I had my nissan hardbody truck it had that front end. I would repack the wheel bearings with grease and torque regularly. First is to make sure that the axle nut is on tight or at the right torque. The nut has a retainer, either castle nut with pin or a thin metal cover with tabs that bend and lock (can't remember then name now), are these devises present still? Is the axle nut loose.

The ball joint is harder to test. Ususualy it invloves jacking up the wheel and taking a pry bar under the tire and observe play in the BJ.
I jacked it up and 12 to sixed it,, yep , there is play,, so on to next step parts selection with is confusing me,,,, the descriptions at napa and others ,rock,ect, are all different, there are inners , outer, cones , cups, what the fuc,,,, dumb it down would they

https://www.napaonline.com/en/searc...299900&text=wheel+bearings&isApplication=true
 
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