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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so im not sure if this little problem is just how the truck is or if its something simple like a bad thermostat but my issue is ever since i've had the truck it wont blow hot air outta the heater when i start it first thing in the morning. I've even let it idle for almost an hour and the best ive been able to get outtof it was barely luke warm air, its only after i get it going down the road a a few minutes and only then can i get hot air. it seems like its not that big a deal but this time a year its kindof a pain in the a$$ when your defrosters wont do a darn thing for your frozen windshield.

its almost like only after you get it into gear will it start to run coolant through the heat exchanger, so like i said before im not sure if thats how they all are or if its an easy fix (thermostat?)

if any of you have ever had the same problem and found a remedy or if you know what might be wrong and where to start i would very much appreciate any feedback.

THANKS!!!
 

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Why would you let your truck idle for a hour? Sounds like you have an air pocket. I would check that first since it is free to do and easy.
 

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Why would you let your truck idle for a hour? Sounds like you have an air pocket. I would check that first since it is free to do and easy.
My first thought as well. These trucks need all the air bled out of the cooling system.

I'd also - 10 minutes after start-up/driving - feel the inlet and outlet tubes at the firewall for the heater, those need to be hot or it's an engine issue. If those are hot, then the issue is flow under the dash.
 

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it may be low on coolant. check out this post/thread and see if it fits your symptoms.

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/...idling-why-not-54007/index10.html#post3579338
Had the same issue and found the thread quoted above. Here's what I did:

"Thanks for all of the input, I had warm heat and defroster when I warmed up my car this morning.

When I was having the issues, at first my radiator looked full but it was able to take a few ounces to top off. Reservoir levels were good too.

Parked on level ground I had to top off the radiator 2 times in all (1st was very little, 2nd time was closer to a pint +). I also had to top the reservoir off 2 times, both from the MIN level on a cold engine to the MAX. The second time I filled the reservoir I filled it up about 1/2 inch over the MAX line.

I drove after every time I topped off. It seemed that when my reservoir levels were good, the radiator was low and able to take coolant and visa versa.

Bubbling noise behind the dashboard seems to be gone as well.

Used Prestone AF2100 Extended Life 50/50 Antifreeze not overthinking the blue/green coolant color topic.

I imagine if anyone runs into this issue its just a matter of adding coolant where it needs it and run the truck to get it cycling and push the air out."

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f8/2012-heater-not-working-properly-339513/

Also a good thread.
 

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I've commented on most of these, but I'll repeat it here again. The main thing to realize is the coolant level is checked on the reservoir tank with the engine running and cold. If a person checks it with the engine off, it looks full but it is not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
this is all great, i wouldnt have thought of this as an issue, thanks alot for all the feedback, ill try adding coolant and post results as soon as i get any.

thanks again!
 

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ok so I have done these same steps above on my current 2016 and my previous 2012 SV's as well as 2 Frontiers here at my work for co-workers. In all instances this has only worked marginally if at all.

I have had both of mine at my dealership and they say nothing is wrong that once the rpm's rise the coolant flows better that is why it works well at speed. well no [email protected] it flows better but that has never been an issue in any other vehicle I have ever owned. I took to another large dealership over an hour away and to no avail almost the same answer. Now don't get me wrong I love my Nissans. Have had one since I got my license 30 yrs ago. But this is really pi$$in me off since it has been very cold here the last month and half.

I took mine to my friends shop this weekend and we did a complete drain and re-fill using his coolant system vacuum purge kit. Still the exact same results.

Last nite about 10 min before I got off work (it was 18°) I started it up and turned the dash vent/floor (dash venting wow now there's another issue in itself!) heat switch with the inside air recirculate switch on since I know when driving and its in this position there is more air and seems to me warmer. When I finally get off I'm walking to my truck and notice the windows are fogging/frosting over but when I open the door there is a definite temp difference inside. Not hot mind you but warm enough not to be shaking.

Any additional thoughts on this? Maybe a heater control valve or a heater door actuator that is open more or less? I have a very hard time believing that 4 Frontiers, 2 of them were new this last spring, all have defective anythings all causing the same issue. Thanks in advance!
 

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Any additional thoughts on this? Maybe a heater control valve or a heater door actuator that is open more or less? I have a very hard time believing that 4 Frontiers, 2 of them were new this last spring, all have defective anythings all causing the same issue. Thanks in advance!

Is it safe to assume that you have sufficient heat once you start driving? After 10 minute idle the engine should be up to temp. When my SL did this I had heat by the time I drove 2 blocks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok so I have done these same steps above on my current 2016 and my previous 2012 SV's as well as 2 Frontiers here at my work for co-workers. In all instances this has only worked marginally if at all.

I have had both of mine at my dealership and they say nothing is wrong that once the rpm's rise the coolant flows better that is why it works well at speed. well no [email protected] it flows better but that has never been an issue in any other vehicle I have ever owned. I took to another large dealership over an hour away and to no avail almost the same answer. Now don't get me wrong I love my Nissans. Have had one since I got my license 30 yrs ago. But this is really pi$$in me off since it has been very cold here the last month and half.

I took mine to my friends shop this weekend and we did a complete drain and re-fill using his coolant system vacuum purge kit. Still the exact same results.

Last nite about 10 min before I got off work (it was 18°) I started it up and turned the dash vent/floor (dash venting wow now there's another issue in itself!) heat switch with the inside air recirculate switch on since I know when driving and its in this position there is more air and seems to me warmer. When I finally get off I'm walking to my truck and notice the windows are fogging/frosting over but when I open the door there is a definite temp difference inside. Not hot mind you but warm enough not to be shaking.

Any additional thoughts on this? Maybe a heater control valve or a heater door actuator that is open more or less? I have a very hard time believing that 4 Frontiers, 2 of them were new this last spring, all have defective anythings all causing the same issue. Thanks in advance!

YES i feel your pain, my air vent control has been funky since i bought the truck, it doesnt like to switch between settings (floor vents, floor vents/defroster, floor vents/hand vents etc.) sometimes it will work as selected but other times i hear a distinct clicking/electrical whirring behind the dash somewhere that corrisponds with the air selector, like theres a servo back there thats tweeking out becuase its either stuck from some obstruction or it just doesnt know what to do, either way the door/valve or what ever controls the direction of airflow is screwy and i have no idea how to fix that,

as for the coolant issue: just a few minutes ago while the truck was idling i opend the coolant reservoir and added coolant to just about half way from the max line and the top of the tank (about an inch over the max fill line) for the heck of it (and because i dont really know what im doing) i also opend the radiator cap (while idling) i opend it slow and there was a little dribble of coolant but not much, but there was also a surprising about of bubbles comming out of the radiator. watching the radiator 'off gas' itself i also kept an eye on the reservoir and watched the coolant level drop quite a bit. as i opend the reservoir cap (to replenish what was lost, also still having the cap off the radiator) coolant started to flow out of the radiator. so after i felt like most of the bubbles where out of the radiator (and made a bit of a mess) i capped the radiator and topped off the reservoir to about an inch over the max fill line.

my plan is to let the truck cool completely then start it, let it warm again to operating temp, and see if i get anymore heat outta the vents.

i'll post results when i get them

Thanks!
 

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Andyo -- to answer your question yes it is almost full warm within a couple blocks. What don't make sense is when you stop for an extended period of time (during cold weather), lets say at a train crossing, and you have it on floor heat it does get cold again until moving. I just spoke with my co-worker that I did the add coolant a total of 3 times with the most being almost a pint, he has a 2011, his does the same thing. I told him today when he leaves here to try the dash vent/floor with inside air re-circ and let me know how that does.

I did forget to mention over Christmas shut-down I did back mine into a fairly steep ditch at my parents and idled it with the cap off to get any air that may by hiding somewhere. I used/use this method when assembling new snowmobiles or rebuilds.
 

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Andyo -- to answer your question yes it is almost full warm within a couple blocks. What don't make sense is when you stop for an extended period of time (during cold weather), lets say at a train crossing, and you have it on floor heat it does get cold again until moving. I just spoke with my co-worker that I did the add coolant a total of 3 times with the most being almost a pint, he has a 2011, his does the same thing. I told him today when he leaves here to try the dash vent/floor with inside air re-circ and let me know how that does.

I did forget to mention over Christmas shut-down I did back mine into a fairly steep ditch at my parents and idled it with the cap off to get any air that may by hiding somewhere. I used/use this method when assembling new snowmobiles or rebuilds.
You have an air bubble around your thermostat, I believe it's because the Tstat sits so low(see pic). My did the same thing verbatim.....Easy fix....

Option 1

1.Park the truck running with the nose facing up or level at the very least.

2. Fill the overflow to the max.

3. Let the truck cool with the cap off and repeat steps 1 and 2 until it stops taking fluid, leaving the reservoir filled to the max.

Option 2

Fill the reservoir to the max every night until your heat works.
 

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Andyo -- to answer your question yes it is almost full warm within a couple blocks. What don't make sense is when you stop for an extended period of time (during cold weather), lets say at a train crossing, and you have it on floor heat it does get cold again until moving. I just spoke with my co-worker that I did the add coolant a total of 3 times with the most being almost a pint, he has a 2011, his does the same thing. I told him today when he leaves here to try the dash vent/floor with inside air re-circ and let me know how that does.

I did forget to mention over Christmas shut-down I did back mine into a fairly steep ditch at my parents and idled it with the cap off to get any air that may by hiding somewhere. I used/use this method when assembling new snowmobiles or rebuilds.
Outside of topping off the radiator first and then the reservoir I'm not quite sure. I think you might want to park nose up to force the bubble out, unless that's what you did at your parents. All I know is that it did take me about a good 3 or 4 runs over a whole weekend to get the levels topped, engine hot, then engine cool, rinse and repeat. Even the littlest bit of coolant the radiator took the first round pushed the air through the system. Also, another symptom I had was when I ran the front defroster on my 17mi work commute, when I would park and turn the truck off I could hear the air bubbles behind the dash. I could hear them almost instantly. Listen for that on after your drive home tonight. Again, Mainly happened when I ran only the front defroster. Temperature setting didn't seem to matter.
 

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4x4...I went back here and seen all the way back to 2007 people have had this exact same issue with their Frontiers. We (my work) have 3 Frontiers here right now in the parking lot, a 2011 and 2 2016 with the exact same problem. I don't understand why/how Nissan hasn't had enough complaints or what ever to not fix this issue. The owner should not have to deal with it. Period. Are we supposed put our own air bleed valves right into the t-stat housing and one in every line and cross-over passage?

Please don't take this as I'm upset with you I'm just very frustrated. Thanks for the help and input though!
 

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4x4...I went back here and seen all the way back to 2007 people have had this exact same issue with their Frontiers. We (my work) have 3 Frontiers here right now in the parking lot, a 2011 and 2 2016 with the exact same problem. I don't understand why/how Nissan hasn't had enough complaints or what ever to not fix this issue. The owner should not have to deal with it. Period. Are we supposed put our own air bleed valves right into the t-stat housing and one in every line and cross-over passage?

Please don't take this as I'm upset with you I'm just very frustrated. Thanks for the help and input though!
Couldn't agree more.

It seems all my vehicles have weird little glitches like this!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You have an air bubble around your thermostat, I believe it's because the Tstat sits so low(see pic). My did the same thing verbatim.....Easy fix....

Option 1

1.Park the truck running with the nose facing up or level at the very least.

2. Fill the overflow to the max.

3. Let the truck cool with the cap off and repeat steps 1 and 2 until it stops taking fluid, leaving the reservoir filled to the max.

Option 2

Fill the reservoir to the max every night until your heat works.
SUCCESS! i followed your instructions and this morning after i let the truck run for 15 minutes or so i saw the 2 inches of fluff we got last night had been completly melted and all windows clear of ice and snow, its never been able to do that
THANKS!
 

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SUCCESS! i followed your instructions and this morning after i let the truck run for 15 minutes or so i saw the 2 inches of fluff we got last night had been completly melted and all windows clear of ice and snow, its never been able to do that
THANKS!
Isn't it great to look out the window and see that the windshield is clear? Such a relief when I saw the frost had melted.

I had bought my truck end of summer and hadn't had a chance to defrost until Oct/Nov and I was like "aww crap", had it for 2 months and I'll be putting $$$ into this thing. Turns out it was only $30 bucks for coolant but I'm OK w/ that. Now I know and I learned something.
 

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SUCCESS! i followed your instructions and this morning after i let the truck run for 15 minutes or so i saw the 2 inches of fluff we got last night had been completly melted and all windows clear of ice and snow, its never been able to do that
THANKS!
Awesome, arent simple fixes so gratifying? This forum has been great for figuring out these little things.

Isn't it great to look out the window and see that the windshield is clear? Such a relief when I saw the frost had melted.

I had bought my truck end of summer and hadn't had a chance to defrost until Oct/Nov and I was like "aww crap", had it for 2 months and I'll be putting $$$ into this thing. Turns out it was only $30 bucks for coolant but I'm OK w/ that. Now I know and I learned something.
Imagine my dismay after dropping $300 on remote start to still have frost on my windows after 30 minutes.
 
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so im not sure if this little problem is just how the truck is or if its something simple like a bad thermostat but my issue is ever since i've had the truck it wont blow hot air outta the heater when i start it first thing in the morning. I've even let it idle for almost an hour and the best ive been able to get outtof it was barely luke warm air, its only after i get it going down the road a a few minutes and only then can i get hot air. it seems like its not that big a deal but this time a year its kindof a pain in the a$$ when your defrosters wont do a darn thing for your frozen windshield.

its almost like only after you get it into gear will it start to run coolant through the heat exchanger, so like i said before im not sure if thats how they all are or if its an easy fix (thermostat?)

if any of you have ever had the same problem and found a remedy or if you know what might be wrong and where to start i would very much appreciate any feedback.

THANKS!!!
I'm currently having the same issue, did you find out what it was?
 
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