Niiiiiiiice. have you ever dyno'd it with all those engine upgrades?
handb94's 2004 Desert Runner
Truck for sale!!!
This truck is for sale. Asking $10,000 or best offer. I will be removing the CB radio and lights off the front. I put the Titan steels back on with Michelin tires. They have good tread left.
West Palm Beach, Fl
Username: handb94 (Alex)
Year: 2004
Make: Nissan
Model: Frontier
Trim: XE V6 Desert Runner
Color: Black
I hope I did all of this correctly. I want to say thanks for all of the help/advice given from everyone here. This really is a great site and please use the search function. It does work.
Mods: Axle vent mod, Dual electric Nissan Maxima fans, Quest alternator
Interior: Panasonic head unit, New door speakers, LED's in map and dome lights
Exterior: Custom front prerunner style bumper, Painted headlight housings black, Stubby antenna, Decals on rear window
Drivetrain: ARB Rear Air locker (I lost the other button that's why it says front), Custom Extended oil pan (6 qts),
Suspension & Tires: Total Chaos long travel kit, Sway-a-Way 2.5 Emulsion shocks, FoA 500lb 16" coils, FOA 2.0 reservoir shocks in the back, Front sway bar removed, 18" steel Titan wheels with Michelin AT2's.
Armor: Front bumper skid plate, stock skid plate
Performance: Jim Wolf Technology Stage 2 Cams and valve springs, Doug Thorley Headers, Walker cat deletes, Remote mount turbo in bed
Gear and Other: ARB air line repair kit
This truck is for sale. Asking $10,000 or best offer. I will be removing the CB radio and lights off the front. I put the Titan steels back on with Michelin tires. They have good tread left.
West Palm Beach, Fl
Username: handb94 (Alex)
Year: 2004
Make: Nissan
Model: Frontier
Trim: XE V6 Desert Runner
Color: Black
I hope I did all of this correctly. I want to say thanks for all of the help/advice given from everyone here. This really is a great site and please use the search function. It does work.
Mods: Axle vent mod, Dual electric Nissan Maxima fans, Quest alternator
Interior: Panasonic head unit, New door speakers, LED's in map and dome lights
Exterior: Custom front prerunner style bumper, Painted headlight housings black, Stubby antenna, Decals on rear window
Drivetrain: ARB Rear Air locker (I lost the other button that's why it says front), Custom Extended oil pan (6 qts),
Suspension & Tires: Total Chaos long travel kit, Sway-a-Way 2.5 Emulsion shocks, FoA 500lb 16" coils, FOA 2.0 reservoir shocks in the back, Front sway bar removed, 18" steel Titan wheels with Michelin AT2's.
Armor: Front bumper skid plate, stock skid plate
Performance: Jim Wolf Technology Stage 2 Cams and valve springs, Doug Thorley Headers, Walker cat deletes, Remote mount turbo in bed
Gear and Other: ARB air line repair kit
1 - 20 of 104 Posts
Thank you. No I haven't yet. There is a shop locally that I can get three runs with a wideband o2 sensor hooked up for $75. I just haven't gotten around to doing it. I am very curious though. I want to send my ecu out to get flashed. I called jet performance and they said their program isn't for motors that have had internal engine work done. I will have to look into 4x4 parts and see of they can help me.
The other option is getting a piggyback through aem. I got a quote from a company to make a harness for the ecu to module and they wanted $300. ouch. I do believe I need some tuning done I just don't know which route I want to go.
The other option is getting a piggyback through aem. I got a quote from a company to make a harness for the ecu to module and they wanted $300. ouch. I do believe I need some tuning done I just don't know which route I want to go.
What motor do you have in your truck? Looks like the VG33ER Super Charged? I would really like to know more detail about those headers and how your eliminating cats (front cats only?) , etc. Do you have DMV inspections in your state? Any further details would be greatly appreciated. Have my eye on those Thorley headers just need to know how I can get through a DMV inspection.
The motor is the vg33e. Non supercharged. I removed 4 cats. Two with the headers and two with the walker test pipes. Good ole Florida no inspections. I am using spark plug anti-fowlers on the rear o2 sensors so the check engine light won't come on. It has once or twice but I just clear it out.
If they don't do a visual inspection you can get away with the headers because you can keep the check engine light off. Other than that you might get in trouble.
If they don't do a visual inspection you can get away with the headers because you can keep the check engine light off. Other than that you might get in trouble.
Thank you very much. Lift is getting done next week. I'm excited.
A couple more pictures. Some flex. I probably could have gone a little higher but the right front tire wasn't liking it.
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4
I love the white trash cat, haha. Definitely not what I was expecting.
First off nice truck, love the long travel set up. I want to ask you how hard were the headers to install? I've been eyeing them for a while now and soon as the funds come I am pulling the plug and buying me a pair. Should I take it to a shop or can anyone install them? I might of misread but what all do I need to keep the SES light off? I live in Maryland and of course I have emissions laws. Thanks and nice truck!
Hey sorry it's taken so long to reply. Thank you. The headers really weren't that hard to put in. Granted I work at a shop with a lift and air tools. If you have tools and some help I think you can do it yourself. Jack up the truck and take the wheels off and that will give you some room. I think I had a thread with a bunch of pictures of how to do it. I can't find it. I believe the passenger side comes out from the top and the drivers comes out from the bottom.First off nice truck, love the long travel set up. I want to ask you how hard were the headers to install? I've been eyeing them for a while now and soon as the funds come I am pulling the plug and buying me a pair. Should I take it to a shop or can anyone install them? I might of misread but what all do I need to keep the SES light off? I live in Maryland and of course I have emissions laws. Thanks and nice truck!
Get some rust solvent and spray all the bolts when they are hot to let it soak in. One trick is you will need to back out one of the power steering pump bolts in order to remove one of the header bolts. Also if you have egr bending the pipe is a pain.
As far as the check engine light goes... You can either buy the two CEL eliminators that 4x4 parts sells or you can go to an auto parts store and buy "spark plug anti-foulers" (they are much cheaper) but you have to drill out the inside to make the tip of the o2 sensor fit. You thread the anti-fouler in the exhaust first then the o2 sensor. You will only need to do this to the front sensors. I did it on my Cavalier also and never had the light come on.
I picked this up earlier in the week. AEM F/IC-6. I hope to wire it up within the next week or two. The local shop, Japtrix, said they can dyno tune it for about $300. Not too bad I don't think. The truck runs great right now but kind of rich at idle. I think this will let it run even better. I got it for a great price off of eBay.
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Thanks for the reply. I received my headers on Tuesday. I could probably do the job but I do not have the access of tools to do so. So with that said I gritted my teeth and I am going to have a performance shop install them for me. Thanks for the tips though I can't wait to see how they perform. I hope good for the cost of everything lol.
I will keep my eye out on this thread I am curious to see what your truck does on the dyno with the tune.
I will keep my eye out on this thread I am curious to see what your truck does on the dyno with the tune.
Curious to see how you like the F/IC. I've tuned them before on boosted vehicles (Civics) and it's not a bad system. Wiring it in shouldn't be that bad.
From what I have read headers are the second best thing you can do for performance. Cams being the first. I'm happy with them. I will post up dyno numbers when it gets done.
I already sorted the wires I will need and put butt connectors on them so if for whatever reason I wanted to take it out I can plug the factory harness back together. The only problem I am having right now is finding out which wires are the signal wires back to the ecm to splice into. I have a chiltons manual that shows most of them. I just need to write everything down first.
I already sorted the wires I will need and put butt connectors on them so if for whatever reason I wanted to take it out I can plug the factory harness back together. The only problem I am having right now is finding out which wires are the signal wires back to the ecm to splice into. I have a chiltons manual that shows most of them. I just need to write everything down first.
This should help:
AEM F/ic writeup : 240sx General Discussion
And if you get tired of messing with it and simply want to open your wallet and checkbook that part of it, just get a harness from Boomslang. I'll bet when you compare the pinouts on the 1996 300ZX, it will be real close to your VG33.
Boomslang Fabrication | ECU Engine Management Wire Harnesses
And here's a link to the 3 ECU diagrams from Alldata. just let me know when you've downloaded them as I will clear them from my Dropbox.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yx4y2oeaezmn5a5/NissanECU.zip
AEM F/ic writeup : 240sx General Discussion
And if you get tired of messing with it and simply want to open your wallet and checkbook that part of it, just get a harness from Boomslang. I'll bet when you compare the pinouts on the 1996 300ZX, it will be real close to your VG33.
Boomslang Fabrication | ECU Engine Management Wire Harnesses
And here's a link to the 3 ECU diagrams from Alldata. just let me know when you've downloaded them as I will clear them from my Dropbox.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yx4y2oeaezmn5a5/NissanECU.zip
Thanks. I already spoke with boomslang. Yea for $300 I'll cut and splice myself. I was looking in the FSM and it doesn't have any diagrams either. Which I thought was weird. When I get home I will post a picture of the wiring of the cam position sensor. It has two signals going into one wire. One for 1 degree and one for 120 degree. I assume I can use the Cam 1 signal on the f/ic since the ecu uses one wire for both signals.
Edit. You can remove the files now. I actually have those.
Edit. You can remove the files now. I actually have those.
So anyways a little update. I wired in the F/IC didn't have too many problems. I found out that I could not use the crankshaft position sensor wired in through the box. The truck wouldn't start. I removed that from the circuit and truck fired right up. It really wasn't bad. I hooked it up so if I choose to remove it I can hook it all back to stock. I plan to get it dyno tuned at the beginning of next month.
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I also installed this today. Made from aluminum. .65" thick. My boss' buddy has a machine shop and this didn't cost me a dime.
1 - 20 of 104 Posts
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