I found it easier to remove the 3 bolts for the hood latch and get it out of the way. Then take out the 3 torx screws and plastic rivets and take off the top cover off. With that cover removed, you can reach down and access the clips that hold the grill in place. Here's a link with some more pictures.

https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads/wind-louvers-behind-grill-25.395122/

 

The clips on the bottom are a pain in the tuchus. It feels like you're going to break the grill because you have to bend it out enough to get a hand behind it to trip the clips. I've had mine out several times, and haven't broken it yet, so it can be done, just go slow.

 

I got is apart with not too much fuss, hard because I am a very old man and very short (lucky I have tiny hands)! But I decided against putting a power port on the outside with a protected cover.
Like this - OptiMate CABLE O-40 - OptiMate
I just put a regular SAE connector under the hood. So I have to open the hood to put it on the maintainer. Already doing that with the wife's car.
Hopefully, with the advanced battery level monitoring, if the truck is left too long without being driven and not on the maintainer, I will not be 'boating without adequate propulsion'.

I also added a 350 amp Anderson Power pole pigtail (stashed under the hood the side of the battery next to the fender). I use it for easy connecting of jumpers, a 2,000 watt inverter and to run a cable to the back tow receiver when I put a Warn winch on to pull stuff. Old truck, I had run cables from the front under the truck to the receiver but truthfully, I used it maybe a dozen times in ten years and not worth the trouble to install. Instead, I'll simply make up an 'extension cable' to reach the back. It's not like I drive and need the power there. Only when stationary.

Thanks for the hints guys!