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...They will shut off after a short period of time if you leave them on...
I can confirm that if I leave the lights in my truck (2016 Pro-4X) set to "on", the headlights and fog logs turn off after 30 seconds without the key in the ignition.
 

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So, I splurged on some lighting as it is real dark and rainy all winter where I live. I pulled the trigger on a set of Morimoto 2Stroke 3.0 9007 bulbs and the Morimoto XB fog lights.

I am impressed with both. The light pattern has decent cut off, minimal hot spots, no dark patches, and the fans are super quiet compared to the Nineos I tried previously. The DRL feature does NOT work (more on that below).

Although this is not exactly a cheap option, it does provide great lighting and driving with them for about a month now, I have had zero people flash their lights at me.

I even managed to take photos this time :p. Drove around until I found an industrial building I could park about 30 feet away from. I am thoroughly impressed with the real world driving experience (and I think the road photos show the light pretty well).

Morimotos
329356


Wall: Low
329357


Wall: Low and Fog
329358


Wall: High
329359


Road: Low
329360


Road: Low and Fog
329361


Road: High
329362



The DRL feature confuses me. Out of the box, the DRL feature does NOT work. I called the store I purchased the bulbs from and Morimoto directly: they both recommended the PWM unit. So, I tried it. I tried every combination (both headlights with PWM units, swap sides, one on driver side, one on passenger side, other on driver side, other on passenger side), and no matter how I had them plugged in the DRL on the DRIVER side worked, but NOT the PASSENGER side. I seem to recall reading somewhere on this forum that the DRLs in our frontiers operate the highbeams in series (instead of parallel) so each bulb gets half power and lasts longer. Maybe the led driver doesnt "send" the signal on from one highbeam to the next? I dont really know enough about the circuits to understand what is going on.

However, as Zedbra mentioned above, I was able to just turn the lights to "on" and turn off the truck and walk away and have the lights auto-shutoff in 30 secs. So, this basically functions as a full system DRL (low beams and fogs). I am happy.
 

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I even managed to take photos this time :p. Drove around until I found an industrial building I could park about 30 feet away from. I am thoroughly impressed with the real world driving experience (and I think the road photos show the light pretty well).
Good to hear another option.
Your aim looks slightly high (based on your "road" photos)... did you check the headlamp aim after install? Or just went with where it's at?
If you feel like getting it to spec, here you go: How-To: Aim Your Headlamps (with LED Bulbs Installed) :)
 

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So, I splurged on some lighting as it is real dark and rainy all winter where I live. I pulled the trigger on a set of Morimoto 2Stroke 3.0 9007 bulbs and the Morimoto XB fog lights.

I am impressed with both. The light pattern has decent cut off, minimal hot spots, no dark patches, and the fans are super quiet compared to the Nineos I tried previously. The DRL feature does NOT work (more on that below).

Although this is not exactly a cheap option, it does provide great lighting and driving with them for about a month now, I have had zero people flash their lights at me.

I even managed to take photos this time :p. Drove around until I found an industrial building I could park about 30 feet away from. I am thoroughly impressed with the real world driving experience (and I think the road photos show the light pretty well).

Morimotos
View attachment 329356

The DRL feature confuses me. Out of the box, the DRL feature does NOT work. I called the store I purchased the bulbs from and Morimoto directly: they both recommended the PWM unit. So, I tried it. I tried every combination (both headlights with PWM units, swap sides, one on driver side, one on passenger side, other on driver side, other on passenger side), and no matter how I had them plugged in the DRL on the DRIVER side worked, but NOT the PASSENGER side. I seem to recall reading somewhere on this forum that the DRLs in our frontiers operate the highbeams in series (instead of parallel) so each bulb gets half power and lasts longer. Maybe the led driver doesnt "send" the signal on from one highbeam to the next? I dont really know enough about the circuits to understand what is going on.
Your DRL is never going to work. The factory configuration uses the lamps in series and runs current "backwards" through one to supply the ground for the other, so each lamp is getting 6 to 6.9 volts when operational. A second relay in the circuit flips the grounds back to normal configuration when the "headlamps" function is selected on your stalk, hence then the LEDs work correctly. To run LEDs in Canada, either you will always have to do what you were just doing, switch on manually ( here in the States DRL isn't required but I run with mine on anyway, just personal habit ), or reconfigure your DRL to use relays and resistors to cut the LED voltage some w/o shutting them down completely. I'd recommend against this course as I have no idea if the LED drive circuits are going to be okay with this arrangement, or will fail prematurely.
 
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a few nights ago, I was for the first time able to have my wife follow me with her driving my truck (02 2WD V6 on the 4WD chassis, stock height) and me in a Malibu Maxx car. Whether she was directly behind me or a little ways back, there was no blinding effect for me in the mirrors on the sides or the center rearview. Still loving those Katanas.
 

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Good to hear another option.
Your aim looks slightly high (based on your "road" photos)... did you check the headlamp aim after install? Or just went with where it's at?
If you feel like getting it to spec, here you go: How-To: Aim Your Headlamps (with LED Bulbs Installed) :)
I did my best to aim the headlights after install. Admittedly my neighborhood is on the side of a mountain and nothing is flat, including the "road photos" above (definitely on a hill looking further downhill) and my driveway. However, prior to installing the Morimotos, I had access to the lower level of a flat parking garage and aimed my stock lights following the method you linked above. When I installed the Morimotos I marked the center of the halogen bulb's beam on the wall of my carport and aligned the center of the Morimoto beams with those marks from about 12-13 feet. Admittedly, not the most fool-proof method, and that could cause some error. If I recall the driver light had to be lowered a touch, and I lowered the passenger light lowered quite a bit to line it up.

Next time I have access to the parking garage I'll double check the aim and properly realign. While driving it does "feel" like more area is lit up, but I wasn't sure if that is just because everything is so much brighter. Thanks for the heads up.

And your How-To fog light install was extremely helpful for putting in the XB fogs (and yes I adjusted those so the top of the beam lined up with each other--only took a couple turns of the knob they were close to bang-on straight right after install).

Cheers.
 

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Your DRL is never going to work. The factory configuration uses the lamps in series and runs current "backwards" through one to supply the ground for the other, so each lamp is getting 6 to 6.9 volts when operational. A second relay in the circuit flips the grounds back to normal configuration when the "headlamps" function is selected on your stalk, hence then the LEDs work correctly. To run LEDs in Canada, either you will always have to do what you were just doing, switch on manually ( here in the States DRL isn't required but I run with mine on anyway, just personal habit ), or reconfigure your DRL to use relays and resistors to cut the LED voltage some w/o shutting them down completely. I'd recommend against this course as I have no idea if the LED drive circuits are going to be okay with this arrangement, or will fail prematurely.
Thanks for the information! I appreciate it. I'll admit, I was hopeful as the 2Stroke 3.0s product page says:

"the LED Driver is configured to accept a wide range of input voltage, making them compatible with low voltage daytime running lights commonly found on modern vehicles. When the LED driver detects 6-9V of input: The system logic automatically switches to produce just 30% of the standard output. The low power drive rate of 250mA produces only 460lm per emitter and enables the 2Stroke 3.0 to produce a suitably low output volume as a daytime running light."

I thought there was a decent chance it would work, as the 6-9v trigger range should have been ideal for the 6-6.9v going to them. However, in practice only one of the lights (driver side) was triggered by the DRL and came on. It seems like something is happening in the LED driver that prevents the low voltage backwards current from getting sent to the next light (or the driver can't handle the backwards current?).

Either way, you are right, they dont work as DRLs. :D

I'm with you though, not worth it to run relays and resistors.
 

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I did my best to aim the headlights after install. Admittedly my neighborhood is on the side of a mountain and nothing is flat, including the "road photos" above (definitely on a hill looking further downhill) and my driveway. However, prior to installing the Morimotos, I had access to the lower level of a flat parking garage and aimed my stock lights following the method you linked above. When I installed the Morimotos I marked the center of the halogen bulb's beam on the wall of my carport and aligned the center of the Morimoto beams with those marks from about 12-13 feet. Admittedly, not the most fool-proof method, and that could cause some error. If I recall the driver light had to be lowered a touch, and I lowered the passenger light lowered quite a bit to line it up.

Next time I have access to the parking garage I'll double check the aim and properly realign. While driving it does "feel" like more area is lit up, but I wasn't sure if that is just because everything is so much brighter. Thanks for the heads up.

And your How-To fog light install was extremely helpful for putting in the XB fogs (and yes I adjusted those so the top of the beam lined up with each other--only took a couple turns of the knob they were close to bang-on straight right after install).

Cheers.
Good to hear buddy (y)
 

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My DRL do not work with LED bulbs as well. Only my left turns on, the other will flicker (sometimes). I just turn my lights on and off every time.
 

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Well that was easy. Received my Katana LED's today. Didn't need to take them apart. Took about 15 minutes to install them after watching this helpful video:


Need to aim them this evening.
 
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Well that was easy. Received my Katana LED's today. Didn't need to take them apart. Took about 15 minutes to install them after watching this helpful video:


Need to aim them this evening.
Don't forget to adjust them too, so you don't blind anyone! I noticed my passenger side needed to go down way more than the driver...
 
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Screwed around with trying to adjust them last night. Need to take em on the road and see if I'm getting flashed.
Compared the lows next to my 20 Rav4 seems like they could come up a smidge.

100% improvement over OEM. Highs are just as bright as my KC ditch light pods. Thinking I'll angle the ditch lights outwards now.
 

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So, I splurged on some lighting as it is real dark and rainy all winter where I live. I pulled the trigger on a set of Morimoto 2Stroke 3.0 9007 bulbs and the Morimoto XB fog lights.

I am impressed with both. The light pattern has decent cut off, minimal hot spots, no dark patches, and the fans are super quiet compared to the Nineos I tried previously. The DRL feature does NOT work (more on that below).

Although this is not exactly a cheap option, it does provide great lighting and driving with them for about a month now, I have had zero people flash their lights at me.

I even managed to take photos this time :p. Drove around until I found an industrial building I could park about 30 feet away from. I am thoroughly impressed with the real world driving experience (and I think the road photos show the light pretty well).

Morimotos
View attachment 329356

Wall: Low
View attachment 329357

Wall: Low and Fog
View attachment 329358

Wall: High
View attachment 329359

Road: Low
View attachment 329360

Road: Low and Fog
View attachment 329361

Road: High
View attachment 329362


The DRL feature confuses me. Out of the box, the DRL feature does NOT work. I called the store I purchased the bulbs from and Morimoto directly: they both recommended the PWM unit. So, I tried it. I tried every combination (both headlights with PWM units, swap sides, one on driver side, one on passenger side, other on driver side, other on passenger side), and no matter how I had them plugged in the DRL on the DRIVER side worked, but NOT the PASSENGER side. I seem to recall reading somewhere on this forum that the DRLs in our frontiers operate the highbeams in series (instead of parallel) so each bulb gets half power and lasts longer. Maybe the led driver doesnt "send" the signal on from one highbeam to the next? I dont really know enough about the circuits to understand what is going on.

However, as Zedbra mentioned above, I was able to just turn the lights to "on" and turn off the truck and walk away and have the lights auto-shutoff in 30 secs. So, this basically functions as a full system DRL (low beams and fogs). I am happy.
How was it getting the Morimoto 2 stroke 9007s in? I read a few reviews saying they had to cut the OEM white retaining collar which I’d rather not do. Just curious how it went for you.
 

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How was it getting the Morimoto 2 stroke 9007s in? I read a few reviews saying they had to cut the OEM white retaining collar which I’d rather not do. Just curious how it went for you.
I didn’t have to trim the retaining collar/ring. I did have to squeeze both hands in to push/hold the unit in place while rotating the ring to get a positive lock/click/seating. It was tight on the passenger side with the battery, but nothing crazy.
 
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