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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
06 Frontier 4x4 SE, first detected a leak about 3 years ago coming from the top of the tank. Ran it down to the fuel pump connector on the top of the tank. Disconnected the quick connector and cleaned both sides, reconnected and no leak. Fast forward almost 3yrs later and I start to get a leak from the same area. I figured it must be a cracked something on top of the fuel pump if it's doing it again. Drop the tank and find this (see photo's) on the fuel line running down the frame to the front of the gas tank. It's the junction from the hardline(metal tube inside) to the formed/rubber only fuel hose to the top of the fuel pump. Well it rusted out/pitted and started leaking. The fuel line going toward the engine is hard line/metal and the side going to the fuel pump is just hard rubber fuel hose. Since this is the low pressure side, we cut it off and added a new line. Anyway I sure wasn't expecting to find this as the problem when I dropped the tank for the second time.

FYI - replaced the fuel line quick connector on the top of the fuel pump is Dorman #800-016 (multi pack, use 3/8 connector piece) and the EVAP hose retainer clip is Dorman #800-041 or #800-040 (single or 2 pack). If you drop the tank for any reason you might want these. Rust Auto part Pipe
Rust Auto part Metal
 

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Good mention on the Dorman #800-041 clip! I think you can only get it from Nissan if you buy the entire hose?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here are all the part numbers I was able to come up with from Nissan.
Fuel Pump #17040-ZZ00A (after market Spectra and Bosch seem to have the best ratings and price) I got and returned the Spectra #SP4001M and ate the $9 return postage.

Tube Assy - Fuel #17270-EA000 (soft tubing from fuel hardline to top of Fuel Pump)
Retainer-Quick connector #17532-79902 (top of fuel pump/fuel connection) Dorman #800-016 (3/8") just the plastic insert
Not sure on the EVAP hose clip but the EVAP hose is #17226-EA000 and the part has 2 of those Dorman #800-041 clips, one going to the EVAP tank/res hard line and the other side goes to the fuel pump top connector.
 

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The OE pump from the factory is Bosch, so, if you order a Bosch fuel pump module from Rockauto, you'll get the same pump at a fraction of the dealer's price.
 

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I've found exact same leak 2 days ago on my 2010. It's in a very inconvenient spot since you can't do anything with it without dropping the fuel tank.

I'm surprised that this connection was exposed like that to elements.

@AJ clearwater how much of the metal like did you cut off? Was the factory replacement rubber hose long enough and fit well over the metal one? Did you have to put any type of fitting or clamp on the metal tube?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, not what I expected to find when I dropped the tank either. When it leaked before, it is was the connection on top of the fuel pump. Cleaned that connection and no issues there.

So, we (me and my dad) you will need 2 people for some of this, dropped tank the tank a couple inches on a jack and remove all the connections to the tank. Make sure you have the Dorman clips on hand. We then cleaned up that rusty line and found a good cut point on the hard line side. Cut that with pipe cut tool, you'll have to hold it away from the frame while someone else spins the pipe cutting tool. Then we cut about a 6in piece of rubber fuel line, not sure on the size cause we had a bunch of extras in a box. Clean cut the side going to the top of the fuel pump and we had use a tool to create an expansion or nipple at the end of the rubber line so the new fuel line and clamp would have something to grab onto. Do not know the tool name, but it's a metal cone with ribbing that you squeeze/press into the rubber hose and creates a edge or lip. That's the best I do to describe that part. Then we use small hose clamps on each side of the new tube. Be careful when tightening the soft line side and don't pinch it, the hard line side no worries. Tested the lines before we put the tank all the way back up, ran it for about 20 minutes and no leaks. No issues since and it's been about 6 or 7 full tanks already.

Dorman does have fuel line junction piece that you'd use to connect to soft fuel lines together or replace the whole hose to the top of the fuel pump(soft fuel line side). Dorman has that product too, snap on connection to top of the fuel pump to soft line, then you'd clamp that onto the hard line side going to the engine.
 

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Yeah, not what I expected to find when I dropped the tank either. When it leaked before, it is was the connection on top of the fuel pump. Cleaned that connection and no issues there.

So, we (me and my dad) you will need 2 people for some of this, dropped tank the tank a couple inches on a jack and remove all the connections to the tank. Make sure you have the Dorman clips on hand. We then cleaned up that rusty line and found a good cut point on the hard line side. Cut that with pipe cut tool, you'll have to hold it away from the frame while someone else spins the pipe cutting tool. Then we cut about a 6in piece of rubber fuel line, not sure on the size cause we had a bunch of extras in a box. Clean cut the side going to the top of the fuel pump and we had use a tool to create an expansion or nipple at the end of the rubber line so the new fuel line and clamp would have something to grab onto. Do not know the tool name, but it's a metal cone with ribbing that you squeeze/press into the rubber hose and creates a edge or lip. That's the best I do to describe that part. Then we use small hose clamps on each side of the new tube. Be careful when tightening the soft line side and don't pinch it, the hard line side no worries. Tested the lines before we put the tank all the way back up, ran it for about 20 minutes and no leaks. No issues since and it's been about 6 or 7 full tanks already.

Dorman does have fuel line junction piece that you'd use to connect to soft fuel lines together or replace the whole hose to the top of the fuel pump(soft fuel line side). Dorman has that product too, snap on connection to top of the fuel pump to soft line, then you'd clamp that onto the hard line side going to the engine.
The tool you are referring to is a flaring tool (or, double-flare tool).
315040
 
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Thanks a lot.

When I looked at it, the "rubber" line that comes out of the fuel tank and connects to the hard line was pretty stiff, too. Initially I thought they were both hard lines.

I'm thinking about replacing the the soft part with a brand new one, cutting off the rusted part of the hard line and splice them together with a fuel like fix kit. It'll take me few weeks to get to it, but I'll post back how it'd go.
 

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I also had this problem. Mine was a little pin hole spraying a nice atomized spray of fuel. Made me shudder thinking about how easy it would have been to ignite the stream..... My fix was a little different though.
1) I cut off the end of the nylon tube where it connected to the steel line.
2)Then I cut the steel tube back about 1/2inch to where the metal was good. Then I sliced off the outer coating on the steel tubing, about another inch, right up to where the steel tube makes its first bend.
3) Next, I connected the two pieces together using a 5/16 nylon to steel compression fitting.

It worked great. Total price of the fix: $4. Below is a picture of what one of the fittings look like. I found the one i bought at Advance Auto, but I'm sure any of the other stores probably carry them.
326215
 
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