[steven133080]

Hi Guys, Ive got a 2000 Frontier SE with the 3.3 in it. I was sitting at a stop light the other day and all of a sudden my truck started running really rough. Engine started sputtering/misfiring really bad. I was able to nurse it home and let it sit a little. Went out the next day and found out that the truck runs fine until after it heats up a bit. If the truck is cold, it runs great for about 10 minutes and then starts sputtering, getting worse the longer it runs. I changed the fuel filter, Dist cap and rotor and have checked the plugs/wires cleaned the MAF and TPS. I have wiggled around the fuel pump wires, checked connections and cant find any vacum leaks. The only code my truck is throwing is knock sensor, which it has had that code for years and I dont think thats whats causing this problem it.(Its a nightmare to change out)

Do you guys have any idea of what it might be? Im leaning towards the actual distributor or one of the sensors under the hood. I have read that alot of the sensors dont start working until after truck is up to operating temps.

I have tried everything I can think of (except for replacing the $250 distributor).

 

[bobus8]

This is just a guess but what you describe sounds like a vacuum leak. On some vehicles, when the engine gets warm, (if you have one) one of the vacuum control modules will open and cause vacuum to go to different areas of the engine for emission control... like distributor vac or egr vac etc. If you have this type of module on the engine, check any of the hoses after the module by squeezing them (or any vac hose for that matter) and feel for a weak spot in the hose.

Second. If you have an egr valve, suck on the vac hose to make sure it doesn't leak and that the egr diaphram isn't broken.

Third. You said you tested the distributor wires and plugs. Normally, they would show a problem before the engine heats up but I would replace them (if you haven't) before spending the $250.00 on a new distributor.

Forth. With distributor cap off, grab the roter and push it sideways in all directions to see if the distributor bearings are shot. That way, you can feel assured that a new distributor is needed even if it doesn't fix the problem.

Lastly, you can spray a soapy solution or gum cutter (caution, highly flamable) around the manifold gaskets or injectors to detect a change in engine RPM. If it changes, you problably have a vac sealing problem in the area.

Usually, a vac leak will report O2 sensor problems but you may not have let it have enough time to record the problem.

Worse case senario, do a compression check on the engine and that will tell you the health of the engine. Sometimes, Compression drops after engine warm up but not drastically so you probably don't have this serious of a problem.
Hope this helps a little. Good luck with it.

 

[cstone]

It also sounds like a possible IACV problem. I'm not familiar with what term Nissan uses for it, but it's a valve or actuator that allows for the idle to begin high when the engine is cold and then drop when the engine warms up. It is normally connected to the throttle body on most makes. Possible names are Idle Air Control Valve/Actuator, or Fast Idle Thermo Valve. Look around for info regarding those parts.

 

[bobus8]

Wouldn't the IACV just cause the engine to Idle faster. He mentioned that his engine was sputtering which leads me to think of an unbalanced AFR across different cylinders.

 

[dirtyjeffer]

just thinking out loud here...perhaps an issue with the automatic choke??...water in the fuel system??

 

[cstone]

The IACV normally presents problems by causing a surging idle, but I have seen them cause a low or rough idle as well. I re-read the original post though and it is sounding less like an IACV to me since that problem should only be present at idle. With the throttle applied it would run normally.

 

[Skibane]

Could also be the coolant temperature sensor (for the engine computer - not the temperature gauge).

Bad sensor = bad temperature readings = bad fuel/air mixture = engine running rough

 

[steven133080]

I tried putting some Heat in the gas tank along with some Lucas injector cleaner, but If that was the case, I would think it would run bad all the time. Even when its warmed up, it will idle ok for 10-30 seconds fine , and then it will sputter. Some times its worse than others, then it will idle fine for a few more seconds.

I took the distributor cap back off and there isnt much wiggle at all from the rotor or shaft, but im wondering if it could maybe be a coil in the distributor heating up and going bad. It runs great cold and it seems like after about 7-10 minutes of driving it starts sputtering a little, getting much worse as it runs longer. After about 20 minutes it gets to where it barely stays running when it sputters, but there is still the 10-30 seconds between sputters. I can give it some gas and it does rev up, but there is still some sputter in it, just not as bad as it is when idling. I think tonight im going to look really hard into some of the vacuum lines you guys recommended.

Thanks for all of your ideas and if you have any more, keep em coming!!!

Do you guys think its a possibility it could be from the knock sensor? From what I know of a knock sensor it wont actually cause the truck to run worse and it has had the knock sensor code since about 2003 (about 150,000 miles ago)::smile::

 

[steven133080]

Well I tore apart the distributor and cleaned it up good. Wd-40 the shaft and sprayed it out good with some electrical contact cleaner and it seems to have fixed the problem for now. I'm wondering if I shouldn't go ahead and order a new distributor because I would hate for it to go bad again, but who knows, Maybe it just needed to be cleaned good.

Thanks again for all your guys suggestions.

 

[steven133080]

Well heres an update. It worked good after spraying with wd-40 and cleaning with Electrical contact cleaner, but it only lasted about 3-4 days. I take it apart and wd-40 and it goes another 3-4 days before acting up.

Ordered a new distributor and got it installed last night. Everything seemed to be working great, seemed to be running well. Went out this morning to head to work and it wouldnt start. It would crank but it seemed like there was no spark:crying:

Im beside myself with this truck. You guys think it would need timing adjustment? If it was timing why would it work fine when the motor was warm, but not even start today? Im wondering if something has failed in the brand new distributor.

 

[Oua812]

After hooking up my Defibrillator I was finally able to resurrect this thread.

Any updates?

 

[D Mac]

Well heres an update. It worked good after spraying with wd-40 and cleaning with Electrical contact cleaner, but it only lasted about 3-4 days. I take it apart and wd-40 and it goes another 3-4 days before acting up.

Ordered a new distributor and got it installed last night. Everything seemed to be working great, seemed to be running well. Went out this morning to head to work and it wouldnt start. It would crank but it seemed like there was no spark:crying:

Im beside myself with this truck. You guys think it would need timing adjustment? If it was timing why would it work fine when the motor was warm, but not even start today? Im wondering if something has failed in the brand new distributor.

Did you ever get this fixed.... I am having the same issue.... Thanks!

 

[Nicholasdfio]

Did you ever get this fixed.... I am having the same issue.... Thanks!

same thing is happening to my 2004 frontier. Anyone have any answers??

 

[Nicholasdfio]

After hooking up my Defibrillator I was finally able to resurrect this thread.

Any updates?

Anyone have any answers for this thread? Would be much appreciated

 

[Nicholasdfio]

Well heres an update. It worked good after spraying with wd-40 and cleaning with Electrical contact cleaner, but it only lasted about 3-4 days. I take it apart and wd-40 and it goes another 3-4 days before acting up.

Ordered a new distributor and got it installed last night. Everything seemed to be working great, seemed to be running well. Went out this morning to head to work and it wouldnt start. It would crank but it seemed like there was no spark:crying:

Im beside myself with this truck. You guys think it would need timing adjustment? If it was timing why would it work fine when the motor was warm, but not even start today? Im wondering if something has failed in the brand new distributor.

What was the fix? Please help!

 

[Richard girth]

I also have the same problem with my 2000 nissan frontier. Changed knock sensor, plugs and wires, no codes, still surges and gets worse as engine warms. Please help

 

[RedDR]

I had similar problems with my 2002 and finally took it to Nissan. They have the tools and diagnostics to find the exact problem quickly. In my case (different symptoms from yours) the vehicle speed sensor (aftermarket) was not working right. New genuine Nissan sensor installed and immediate resolution.

Also I think you'd get more help with your issues in the 1st-Gen forum rather than in this one.

 

[Oua812]

I had similar symptoms and the dealer replaced the EGR valve 8 months ago. Still running great.

 

[Dixie1965]

I have a 2000 Nissan Frontier 3.3 liter and doing basically same thing. Runs great until it gets so warm. If I just let it sit like 5 or 10mins it starts up fine. Any longer than that it acts like its flooding itself. Getting ready to change all injectors. But if anyone got this problem fix a cheaper way would be awsome to hear. I've gave it a tune up, replaced evap sensor that code came up, and still having problems. Now there is a pending code for either the crank or camshaft sensor. Can't remember which one. Changing the evap control switch stopped the knock sensor code. Help please! This is my only transportation to work

 

[Nicholasdfio]

I have a 2000 Nissan Frontier 3.3 liter and doing basically same thing. Runs great until it gets so warm. If I just let it sit like 5 or 10mins it starts up fine. Any longer than that it acts like its flooding itself. Getting ready to change all injectors. But if anyone got this problem fix a cheaper way would be awsome to hear. I've gave it a tune up, replaced evap sensor that code came up, and still having problems. Now there is a pending code for either the crank or camshaft sensor. Can't remember which one. Changing the evap control switch stopped the knock sensor code. Help please! This is my only transportation to work

It’s a bad ignition coil. What happens with the faulty coil is that when the engine heats up, the coil heats up and expands, which causes lack of spark, so the engine runs like it’s really rich, it’s not burning up the fuel like it should. Unfortunately on the frontiers the coil is built into the distributor, so you need to replace the whole distributor. Same thing happened to my 04’ a couple months ago, it instantly fixed my issue with a new distributor, not a difficult job to complete for the home mechanic, just pull up youtube.