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I posted this question in introduction.
2008 Frontier 4.0 4wd The dam truck won't start in cold temps. Starts great when it's warmer. It will start with a jump from another vehicle. Any Ideas???
 

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I posted this question in introduction.
2008 Frontier 4.0 4wd The dam truck won't start in cold temps. Starts great when it's warmer. It will start with a jump from another vehicle. Any Ideas???
"It will start with a jump from another vehicle"

That is a voltage problem.

Are you sure that you installed the correct size battery? Did you buy some el cheapo from the Dollar Store?

Put a voltage meter across the battery to read voltage drop during a cold start. I've seen many motorcycles that simply didn't have enough reserve voltage while cranking to fire the ignition system, put in a new battery and the problem goes away...
 

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Go to an auto parts store like Advance or AutoZone, and have them test your battery. Voltage could be good but there could be a bad cell which decrease the cold cranking amps.
 
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Cranks strong just won't start.
That does NOT sound like a weak battery.

A bad Coolant Temperature Sensor would be my first guess.
 

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The confusing part is you say it's a recent battery and cranks strong, but won't start unless you jump it with another vehicle.
 

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A bad coolant temperature sensor will still be bad with a jump start. A new battery can still take a dump early on, my Pathfinder battery failed at 7 months old.

Clint
 

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A bad coolant temperature sensor will still be bad with a jump start.
Unless the sensor was working intermittently, or the engine was warm enough to be right on the verge of starting anyway.

Typically, with a bad coolant sensor, the colder the engine is, the more difficult it is to start. In moderately cool weather, the engine may still eventually start after a lot of cranking, as it warms up a bit.

A new battery can still take a dump early on, my Pathfinder battery failed at 7 months old.
Yep - Batteries tend to have a high "infant mortality" rate.

However, if a battery is spinning the engine quickly, it ***should*** also be supplying enough voltage for good fuel and spark. Usually, by the time the fuel pump and ignition stops working, the battery is too weak to spin the starter anyway.

Here's the resistances a good coolant temp sensor should be producing, when measured at 68, 122 and 194 degrees F.:



If you've got a DMM, it shouldn't take more than a few minutes to measure the resistance of your sensor to see if it's in the ballpark.
 

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checking to see how you resolved this? I am having the same issue
Ive been on every forum on the internet, I found one person that resolved it. for them it was having their computer reprogrammed. I've tried changing out the big fuse under the hood. I've tried switching the whole fuse relay box, new fuel pump, 2 new batteries, and a new air intake. Nothing. Im going to try a new fusible link, ill let you know if it helps any.
 

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My guess is a failing fuel pump.
 

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There seems to have been a widespread problem 2005-2010 with this same problem. Very difficult to diagnose because when you bring it inside for repair, it starts. It seems to cut off somewhere around 30-35 degrees. Some folks were having luck heating up the ECM and ipdm fuse block with a hair dryer. Sounds like its losing a connection when the circuits get cold, or some ecm error when temp reaches that level.
Before you spend any $$ on this, try to contact SMJ999 on here. He's pretty good with these off-the-wall issues, and his vehicle is the same vintage.
 

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Ive been on every forum on the internet, I found one person that resolved it. for them it was having their computer reprogrammed. I've tried changing out the big fuse under the hood. I've tried switching the whole fuse relay box, new fuel pump, 2 new batteries, and a new air intake. Nothing. Im going to try a new fusible link, ill let you know if it helps any.
I’m sure there are other possible issues. But mine was fixed by replacing the negative battery lead from the negative terminal all the way to the engine block. I replaced mine with an OEM one that included the current sensor as well. I removed the bracket that the current sensor was mounted too, and used that mounting hole to attach the ground tab to. Ever since, my battery is charged and my engine starts with no issue.
Auto part Engine Vehicle Car
 

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My Frontier doesn't quite do this (it has similar but different problems) but my 2010 Sentra does. When its nice and warm out it starts like a champ, when its cold and plugged in (with only a block heater) it starts like a champ, however if i forget to plug it in at say -15 C (5F) it'll crank strong but won't turn over. Then if i plug it in and leave it for an hour or so (not doing anything else to it) it starts just fine.

I've tried new battery's and its never thrown a CEL
 

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had machines crank but not start when battery was not fully charged or had dead cell - test your battery and also clean/check connections/wires, especially the ground. Some engines demand more voltage than others.. Does not make sense to me to suspect other components if she starts with a jump.
 

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I added a few extra grounds to my truck, it fires up no matter how cold it gets. Which is a good thing, as I get way out in the woods when I go hunting and there is no one around for hours
 
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