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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I got a front caliper sticking and pulling on me so to keep my maintenance ahead I am putting on new calipers both sides and pads. Question, never done front wheel bearings and figured it would not hurt to repack them since I am in there, anyone have a simple step by step I could follow tearing the hub apart, any special tools, etc? thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks for the link, should I replace the races and bearings or just grease up the bearing? has 60k or so on the ODO

BTW, I thought it was pretty amusing when the dealer quoted me $769.00 to do front calipers, pads, and repack the bearings, thats not even new rotors, amazing how they pour it to to people.
 

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At 60k odo, i dont think you'd need to replace the bearings and races. Just clean them up and re pack them.

heres another link that's useful.
 

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On my '01sc the standard nut and crown aren't there. Instead there's a flat nut w/2 holes in it. It stopped me for a moment but I was able to remove it w/2 phillips screwdrivers inserted into the holes to spin it off. You'll see what I mean if you have the same setup.
As far as packing, just don't forget to have a couple of inner bearing seals on hand when you pull it all apart. Races aren't necessary if you're not replacing the bearings.
Some of the red "anti-squeel" glue and some disc brake slider grease is necessary, also.
I don't think I'd replace the calipers until I tried cleaning and lubing the sliders and pins on the old ones. The rotors shouldn't be turned, as long as they're not grooved. Throw some lifetime guaranteed pads on there and you should be good to go.
BTW, I have 165K on my original rotors and calipers. I'm going to buy Brembros at Tirerack.com when it's time for rotors. $50 a pop.
Don't forget to bed the pads when you're finished.
 

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I have 156K on mine. I changed the wheel bearings a couple weeks ago and honestly, the bearings and seal looked good, but since I needed to replace rotors, I done the bearings too.
I would add new rotors and wheel seals to the parts list. this will get you a few more miles.
The OEM grease is translucent and after 156K, mine was getting pretty black.
If you decide to go replace the bearings and races, get a propane torch. the races are a press fit in the hub and need some heat to knock them loose. not hot, just about as warm as you can still touch with bare skin (~120 to ~150F).
 

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Keep the bearings, replace the seals (everytime) and call it good. Biggest thing is to make sure you set the pre load on the bearing correctly.
 

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i know im digging up an old post, but i just did my bearings last weekend and ran into the same plate with the two holes. how do you "set the pre load on the bearing"? how more torque do you... somehow... torque the plate with two holes?

what i did was repacked the bearings, put new seals in, and put the hub back on the spindle. gave it a good push to make sure everything was seated, and put the plate-nut back on. i used a hammer and punch to kncok it really tight as much as i can, and then backed it off and retightened it while spinning the rotor. after all that i put the tire back and on gave it a few shakes and rocks and i didnt feel any play in the bearing, just the steering.

i know thats pretty much winging it... but my hanes manual showed a nut and crown... but not having that what do you do?
 
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