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Discussion Starter #1
for what i can see, i will need to peice together one myself since nobody sells them, can sombody tell me what all i will need to buy so i can do it all at once and not have to worry about needing something at the last second, also, on the front, if i only go 3" down, can i compensate camber with cam bolts?
 

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flip kit? whats that?
Read the other thread he started about the lowering springs. It explains it there.

To make the flip work I think you can order the backing plates from an Xterra since they are SUA and then get a new set of U-bolts with double nuts and an axle tube thingy that will go between the springs and then leafs to keep the axle from rotating. Then lastly, the oem bump stops will not work so you will have to re-configure them.

Heck, it may be easier (not cheaper) to pick up an m226 from a manual Xterra. I am not definite about the width but you would have the SUA set-up and then the possibility to add a TT.

Ohh, and lets not forget longer shackles to help make-up for the 6" worth of drop.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Read the other thread he started about the lowering springs. It explains it there.

To make the flip work I think you can order the backing plates from an Xterra since they are SUA and then get a new set of U-bolts with double nuts and an axle tube thingy that will go between the springs and then leafs to keep the axle from rotating. Then lastly, the oem bump stops will not work so you will have to re-configure them.

Heck, it may be easier (not cheaper) to pick up an m226 from a manual Xterra. I am not definite about the width but you would have the SUA set-up and then the possibility to add a TT.

Ohh, and lets not forget longer shackles to help make-up for the 6" worth of drop.
thats awsome info, i didnt know the xterra's where SUA, i really want to get some form of an lsd, that would make playing so much more fun all around, and theres no lsd's for the c200k, just wondering how much the rear end would be.?.?.?

good call on the shackles, i was planning on getting the prg adjustable ones when the time comes and im ready to go down.
 

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Read the other thread he started about the lowering springs. It explains it there.

To make the flip work I think you can order the backing plates from an Xterra since they are SUA and then get a new set of U-bolts with double nuts and an axle tube thingy that will go between the springs and then leafs to keep the axle from rotating. Then lastly, the oem bump stops will not work so you will have to re-configure them.

Heck, it may be easier (not cheaper) to pick up an m226 from a manual Xterra. I am not definite about the width but you would have the SUA set-up and then the possibility to add a TT.

Ohh, and lets not forget longer shackles to help make-up for the 6" worth of drop.
Exactly... thats what I did. I wouldn't call them backing plates but "u-bolt plates". It will give you a 6-7" drop and you will be almost frame to axle. So you will need a longer shackle or air shocks to bring it up a lil. If I would do it all over again I would de-arch my leafs. The new spring perch will need to be at least tack welded to keep axle housing from rotating up. This will also require you to reset your pinion angle. If you swap in an xterra axle you could easily run a rear sway bar because the x comes with one. For the front if you drop it 3" you will need to remove front bumpstops and cut the metal brackets down. You will not be able to correct for the negative camber gain unless its only 1"-1.5" .
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Exactly... thats what I did. I wouldn't call them backing plates but "u-bolt plates". It will give you a 6-7" drop and you will be almost frame to axle. So you will need a longer shackle or air shocks to bring it up a lil. If I would do it all over again I would de-arch my leafs. The new spring perch will need to be at least tack welded to keep axle housing from rotating up. This will also require you to reset your pinion angle. If you swap in an xterra axle you could easily run a rear sway bar because the x comes with one. For the front if you drop it 3" you will need to remove front bumpstops and cut the metal brackets down. You will not be able to correct for the negative camber gain unless its only 1"-1.5" .
good to know. so with out having to buy 20" wheels and spindles, will the prg uca's compensate for the camber?
 

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I did a flip and it didnt cost me a cent.
if your good with some tools and have somewhere to do the work, it took me hours because i was figuring it out as i went, but if i was to do it again now it would take about 2 hours.. however it rides on the bump stops and is a pretty rough ride with low profile tires.. so my genius idea is to get some extended shackles that people use to raise their trucks and give an inch of travel to take the harshness out.. or if you dont mind just leave it how it is.. im happy for now, it looks soooooo cool. photos dont do it justice
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I did a flip and it didnt cost me a cent.
if your good with some tools and have somewhere to do the work, it took me hours because i was figuring it out as i went, but if i was to do it again now it would take about 2 hours.. however it rides on the bump stops and is a pretty rough ride with low profile tires.. so my genius idea is to get some extended shackles that people use to raise their trucks and give an inch of travel to take the harshness out.. or if you dont mind just leave it how it is.. im happy for now, it looks soooooo cool. photos dont do it justice
cool, do you have any pics? also, any info of what you did on your kit, did you just cut the stock mounts off and weld them to the bottom?
 

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cool, do you have any pics? also, any info of what you did on your kit, did you just cut the stock mounts off and weld them to the bottom?
I did the flip too, no cost...

Now order some deaver add a leafs and throw them in instead of the shackles. They are worth every penny!
 

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Since he tows, I'd suggest the AALs too. The shackles will not work in the long run as well as the AAL plus, axle wrap is still there with the shackles but is less with the AALs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Since he tows, I'd suggest the AALs too. The shackles will not work in the long run as well as the AAL plus, axle wrap is still there with the shackles but is less with the AALs.
sorry to sound noobish, but i dont see why changing the mounting point of the leaf "shackles" would cause abnormal wear/sagging of factory leafs? i can see how adding a leaf would be better in ways, especialy with cornering being that it would stiffen up the rear, and if/when i lower it, that sounds like the route i will go with just because of it being firmer, but it just seems weird to me that just mounting the spring lower would make much difference in longterm effects.
 

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Both spring over and spring under have there advantages and disadvantages. So neither way is one going to be perfect. Spring under will wear them more, but sping over causes axel wrap. That is the most basic in a nutshell response ever, but I have to go to class, so I don't have time to explain more.
 

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Shackles allow the leafs to flex more which can cause them to go beyond their normal limit too often which would cause them to de-arch quicker.

Plus, our stock leafs suck to begin with. They are almost flat to start and usually end up going inverted ~2 yrs down the line. I wonder if the Frontier was originally designed to be SUA but at the last minute they switch to SOA so it matches the Titan?
 

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good to know. so with out having to buy 20" wheels and spindles, will the prg uca's compensate for the camber?
I would think that the prg arms have enough adjustment, but they are designed to give more downward travel of the upper arms and when you lower the upper arm travels up. The uniball may bottom out if the travel is too great it probably won't b/c it will have more travel than the factory ball joint. The thing is, I believe the uniball is a 1/2" and with a uniball that size is doesn't articulate as much as a smaller uniball. These are questions you would have to ask Greg. Also the prg arms may be able to be flipped upside down and switched side to side to give better upwards travel of the upper arms.

add a leafs would really help me greatly especially from bottoming out on frame and stiffing up the rear, but I am redoing the rear for air bags so I am not going to waste the time and money. the air shocks will work till I am ready to do the rear suspension just air em up for extra passengers or hauling ****.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I would think that the prg arms have enough adjustment, but they are designed to give more downward travel of the upper arms and when you lower the upper arm travels up. The uniball may bottom out if the travel is too great it probably won't b/c it will have more travel than the factory ball joint. The thing is, I believe the uniball is a 1/2" and with a uniball that size is doesn't articulate as much as a smaller uniball. These are questions you would have to ask Greg. Also the prg arms may be able to be flipped upside down and switched side to side to give better upwards travel of the upper arms.

add a leafs would really help me greatly especially from bottoming out on frame and stiffing up the rear, but I am redoing the rear for air bags so I am not going to waste the time and money. the air shocks will work till I am ready to do the rear suspension just air em up for extra passengers or hauling ****.
cool, all the info is great, prg is moving this week so i havent been able to get ahold of them yet. as far as pics go, it looks like the prg arms would adjust enough, since installed pics that i have seen of guys with them, the hyme joints seem to be close to bottomed out, wich makes it look like i could turn them out quite a bit to adjust my camber. hopefully the balljoints wont bind.
 
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