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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I noted a clever advertising 'discount.' If you order the diff cover naked, it costs more. but if you select the gorilla/brand name, you get a few dollars off.
I opted for both but I don’t think I got the discount lol, which I don’t mind anyways since they are nice looking logos and free shipping was a huge deal maker for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Maybe. In reading the linked thread, it says that a dana 44 cover has 2 less bolts than a m226. Looking up some D44 covers you can clearly count ten. But the one the OP received has 12.

OE Dana 44 cover
View attachment 353573
THe ruff stuff D44 cover
View attachment 353574
But hold on the story is not over. The Dana 44 used on the Jeep Rubicon is not a standard D44 either, it is a variant. The standard D44 has a 8.5" (or 215.9mm) ring gear. The Rubi's is listed a M220 with 12 holes and pictured below. Could they have mixed up a Rubi diff? Possible. But looking at the RuffStuffs Rubi cover bolt pattern and the one posted by the OP, I can not be sure. The hole placement do not look exactly the same, 2 holes near the weld opposite the fill plug look like they are in different places. Could just be the picture though.
View attachment 353575
Oh no, that’s way different, I sent over the part number and it was indeed meant for my rear axle, I think it just slipped through the cracks.
 

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I opted for both but I don’t think I got the discount lol, which I don’t mind anyways since they are nice looking logos and free shipping was a huge deal maker for me.
It got better: Seattle, WA normally compels 10% sales tax over and above the item cost. As tested, I noted this was not done by the seller bot so I went ahead and ordered one... with the logos.
 

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So received the ORG / RUF diff cover about 2 weeks ago. I have not yet gotten around to replace it. I wanted to finish painting it first. Man that thing is a BEAST, no pun intended. I hope the bolts line up! I will let you all know if there are any issues. Maybe a couple of pics If I am lucky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Update time, so it turns out Dana hand drills their axle housings so that’s where my problem likely stems from. Since the RS diff covers are CNC drilled the holes on a replacement would be in the same spot; so I’m opting to drill out the cover I have hopefully in the near future so it doesn’t end up a paper weight. I’m very pleased with ORG’s customer service and the way they handled the situation. I will definitely be doing future business with them. Thank you Angel for your time and patience with me! 5/5 🤙🏾’s
 

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Update time, so it turns out Dana hand drills their axle housings so that’s where my problem likely stems from. Since the RS diff covers are CNC drilled the holes on a replacement would be in the same spot; so I’m opting to drill out the cover I have hopefully in the near future so it doesn’t end up a paper weight. I’m very pleased with ORG’s customer service and the way they handled the situation. I will definitely be doing future business with them. Thank you Angel for your time and patience with me! 5/5 🤙🏾’s
Interesting. Could you take a pressing of your pattern and have them drill/spot face and undrilled cover to suit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Gotcha. Just for shits and giggles it’d be interesting to prove that it was your axle that was out of spec by trying to install a stock cover off another truck.
Lol, I had thought of it but from what I recall the stock cover bolt holes, well at least some are elongated. So imma take a double cut carbide bit to it and hope for the best😂
 

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Update time, so it turns out Dana hand drills their axle housings so that’s where my problem likely stems from. Since the RS diff covers are CNC drilled the holes on a replacement would be in the same spot; so I’m opting to drill out the cover I have hopefully in the near future so it doesn’t end up a paper weight. I’m very pleased with ORG’s customer service and the way they handled the situation. I will definitely be doing future business with them. Thank you Angel for your time and patience with me! 5/5 🤙🏾’s
Hey Thank you very much for the update. It's both good and bad to hear that the axle housing is the root problem and not Off Road Gorilla. I am sorry that you have to go cutting such a cool piece. A suggestion would be to weld fill the holes (or maybe even JB weld epoxy) and then take a pressing to get the correct hole pattern.
My OFG diff cover is still in the process of being painted. By the way I have purchased the Frontier Hood struts, rear leaf spring and the Airflow snorkel from them. Those folks are great.
Happy Hunting, Rodent
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Hey Thank you very much for the update. It's both good and bad to hear that the axle housing is the root problem and not Off Road Gorilla. I am sorry that you have to go cutting such a cool piece. A suggestion would be to weld fill the holes (or maybe even JB weld epoxy) and then take a pressing to get the correct hole pattern.
My OFG diff cover is still in the process of being painted. By the way I have purchased the Frontier Hood struts, rear leaf spring and the Airflow snorkel from them. Those folks are great.
Happy Hunting, Rodent
For sure! Glad I was able to provide some closure, I may end up welding the holes and re drill. Any suggestions on taking a pressing? I was thinking a crayon and blank paper, then possibly transferring onto a CAD(cardboard assisted design) model. I’m open to any other methods lol.
 

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Update time, so it turns out Dana hand drills their axle housings so that’s where my problem likely stems from. Since the RS diff covers are CNC drilled the holes on a replacement would be in the same spot; so I’m opting to drill out the cover I have hopefully in the near future so it doesn’t end up a paper weight. I’m very pleased with ORG’s customer service and the way they handled the situation. I will definitely be doing future business with them. Thank you Angel for your time and patience with me! 5/5 🤙🏾’s
So I read this and let it simmer for a few days. Then my brain is telling me that because of this (as you've described) that also means that ANY replacement of the diff cover has a 50/50 chance of the holes being misaligned... even with the OE Nissan cover ? Why would Dana think this method would lead to an acceptable degree of quality control for anything but that one pairing of axle and diff cover?

Is my reading comprehension poor and a sad indictment of the public school system here in Seattle?
 

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Any suggestions on taking a pressing?
use gasket material, cut out the "circle" tape to diff and use the ball end of a small ball peen hammer to gently tap over holes, it will leave an impression in the gasket material, do the first hole, punch it out insert a bolt and then do a hole 180 from the first, insert a bolt and then continue with the remaining holes. or use a file folder, easier to work with and hammer will actually cut the holes out as you tap
 
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For sure! Glad I was able to provide some closure, I may end up welding the holes and re drill. Any suggestions on taking a pressing? I was thinking a crayon and blank paper, then possibly transferring onto a CAD(cardboard assisted design) model. I’m open to any other methods lol.
Greetings FronEar808, I would suggest an artist style charcoal stick. Or to get more elaborate but very centered holes, I suggest this. Take bolts of the same size as the axle hole. (1 for each hole). Chop off the hex head and grind a point, say 60 deg or so. Doesnt have to be surgically sharp. Do this for all and then gently screw one in each hole on the axle. Press a piece of cardboard over and make the impression. There is your template. You could also use wooden dowels with a sanded point (might be easier now that I think about it). I have used this many times in wood working and there is no reason it won't work here. Also for this application I think the JB WELD machinable epoxy would be a good choice if you don't have easy access to a welder. Cheers. Rodent
Link to JB WELD Steel Epoxy
 
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