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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I get like 4 or 5 free oil changes from Nissan, part of my deal when I bought the truck. That said they told me to come in at 5k miles and 5k each after that, well I have about 2600 miles and feel I'd like to do the first one, to learn it and also I like to change the oil early on a brand new motor.

I bought some cheap Quaker 5w30 oil, no reason to use synthetic as the dealership won't, that said, it states the oil capacity is 5 and 7/8th quarts. WTF is 7/8th's lol, how do you guys measure this? I bought a 1.2 gallon jug (5 quarts) and 1 extra quart.

Also any tricks or tips? the oil drain plug is 14mm, is the oil filter easy to get to after taking off those two bolts holding the skid plate on?

Thanks
 

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Easiest to get to the oil filter through the passenger wheel well with tires cranked right. You'll still want to remove the access door below for drainage purposes...AND THEN watch the mess unfold anyway. lol If you can fashion your own oil filter drain ramp, you'll save yourself a bit of a mess.

Put in 5 quarts, then top off w/ as much as needed to the full line on dipstick.
 

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ok thanks! like the turn the wheel to passenger help
Yep. From driver's seat turn wheels to the right to open up the front of the passenger side wheel well.

Dealer would assess an upcharge if you were to 'opt up' for synthetic over Dino oil.
While I've heard/read around here at CF that some Nissan dealers offer a 100% synthetic option, it was my experience that a blended oil (Dino + synthetic) comprised the 'synthetic' choice at the two dealerships I've used.
 

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It 5-3/8 qts. Not 7/8. With a new filter, 3/8 is 12 ounces.

Clint
 

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Correcting myself above:
Put in 5 quarts, start truck to fill oil filter then shut off, THEN top off w/ as much as needed to the full line on dipstick.
 

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Correcting myself above:
Put in 5 quarts, start truck to fill oil filter then shut off, THEN top off w/ as much as needed to the full line on dipstick.
I add some oil from my 5qt jug to the oil filter before putting it on, then had the rest of the jug plus the 3/8 from the other qt.
 

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.... AND THEN watch the mess unfold anyway. lol .....
Just wanted to say that this made me laugh -- it's SO true. A mess has resulted every time no matter what I try.

Last time I made double the mess when for the first time ever in nearly 40 Years of changing oil, I forgot to install the oil plug before the refill. Yep. I got distracted and felt so stupid. I was adding the fresh oil and looked down to see a wave of oil cresting around my shoes. :serious:
 

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Have read of a method here @CF that I should try. Adequately loosen filter first and allow it to slowly drain before removal. Perhaps that lil OEM oil ramp can cope w/ this 'slow mess'. Still need a bigger/wider ramp methinks.

W/ regards to adding some oil to the filter prior to installation. Yep, have heard of this for decades...and I certainly see some wisdom here. However, this nearly begs for adding to the mess since our filter sits parallel to garage floor. If partially oiled filter gets dropped in there = OI...! FRAK...!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well that was super easy.

Did not have a crush washer, so used the one already on there, don't like how the bolt tightens though, it hand screws then stops and I barely got another 1/4 turn before I knew I was at spec for torque.

Turning the wheel full passenger was awesome, didn't even need to take the little door off the skid plate, it did make a mess with oil coming from many seams on the skid plate, lol.

I emptied the oil, put new filter on, added 5 quarts, ran it for 5 min. let it sit for 5 min. and checked the dip stick, it was about the middle, but still added the 3/8th quart from the other quart I had.

That said, I then took the dirty oil and started filling the 5 quart jug I had, thinking I would over fill it, I didn't, only 5 quarts came out, if that :( I obviously didn't drain it all out, unless the factory didn't fill it right lol.

Anyway, took me all of 10 minutes. Will do trans and gear oils at 30k
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Have read of a method here @CF that I should try. Adequately loosen filter first and allow it to slowly drain before removal. Perhaps that lil OEM oil ramp can cope w/ this 'slow mess'. Still need a bigger/wider ramp methinks.

W/ regards to adding some oil to the filter prior to installation. Yep, have heard of this for decades...and I certainly see some wisdom here. However, this nearly begs for adding to the mess since our filter sits parallel to garage floor. If partially oiled filter gets dropped in there = OI...! FRAK...!!
ramps? naaa, I built some blocks for my truck, a couple pieces of 2x4's and made some nice wood blocks to simply drive up on, lifts the front a few inches and its more than enough room for most things under there.

Adding oil the filter is something very popular in applications where the oil capacity of the vehicle is low, at least with motorcycles its recommeded with many that take 3 or so quarts, but I've read there is plenty of oil on the cylinder walls from the time you drain till you start it up again. Maybe a new engine I would do it, but I don't even do it with my gsxr.
 

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Agreed. No ramps needed...but that's not what I was referring to. Had you taken the lil access door off the skid plate you'd have seen a small/laughable oil filter drain 'ramp' leading the oil filter oil out - 'supposedly' through that access door. lol You'll see, when you next tackle this maintenance procedure.
 

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Have read of a method here @CF that I should try. Adequately loosen filter first and allow it to slowly drain before removal. Perhaps that lil OEM oil ramp can cope w/ this 'slow mess'. Still need a bigger/wider ramp methinks.

W/ regards to adding some oil to the filter prior to installation. Yep, have heard of this for decades...and I certainly see some wisdom here. However, this nearly begs for adding to the mess since our filter sits parallel to garage floor. If partially oiled filter gets dropped in there = OI...! FRAK...!!
This is how I've changed the filter on the Frontier - and it works every time, clean and tidy. I do not use any ramps or blocks, but then again my truck is lifted. I do park on a level surface and I use two oil catchers, as explained below:

1. Warm up the engine for a few minutes, turn it off. Leave oil cap on engine for now.
2. Remove oil pan bolt, let oil drain into oil catcher #1.
3. Pop the hood open, check other fluid levels, inspect battery terminals.*
4. Remove oil cap on engine for full oil flow.
5. Remove little cover on skid plate.
6. Loosen the oil filter until oil starts coming out at a slow pace, and let it drain down the little ramp into oil catcher #2.
7. Check tire pressures, lug nut torque, wiper blade condition.*
8. When no more oil is dripping out, re-install the oil pan bolt (with new crush washer) and put the oil cap back on the engine.**
9. Put some new oil on the new oil filter o-ring and threads. I don't put oil inside (it will just pour back out during install.)
10. Slowly unthread the old oil filter from SIDE entry behind skid plate, remove and replace with new oil filter.***
11. Install new oil filter hand tight, and wipe any and all residual oil from the oil pan bolt and oil filter areas (make sure it's clean.)
12. Remove oil cap again, pour 5 quarts in, and top off as needed.
13. Check oil pan bolt and oil filter area for any signs of leaks (Should be dry and clean as it was in step 11.)
14. Recheck oil level 3 days later and repeat step #13.

* since I'm waiting for oil to empty, I check other parts of the truck instead of trying to rush the oil change. I think trying to get an oil change done quickly is why people tend to make it a messy job.

** I put the oil cap back on after draining the old oil to have a small vacuum in the engine; this helps keep any leftover oil from dripping out while I change the oil filter.

*** This is probably the only time when there might be a mess made, since you have to unthread and then tilt the old oil filter 90-degrees whilw trying not to spill any of the oil oil inside the filter.
::smile::
 

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My dealer used Mobil 1 full synthetic. Yours might as well.
My dealer offers Mobil 5W-30 conventional oil. For 10 dollars more you can get 0W-20 Nissan semi-syn oil. But for $69.00 for the change USD they offer Mobil 1 5W-30 full synthetic oil as their premium service. I usually go this route because I tow frequently and I want the best in there...
 

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Well that was super easy.

Did not have a crush washer, so used the one already on there, don't like how the bolt tightens though, it hand screws then stops and I barely got another 1/4 turn before I knew I was at spec for torque.

Turning the wheel full passenger was awesome, didn't even need to take the little door off the skid plate, it did make a mess with oil coming from many seams on the skid plate, lol.

I emptied the oil, put new filter on, added 5 quarts, ran it for 5 min. let it sit for 5 min. and checked the dip stick, it was about the middle, but still added the 3/8th quart from the other quart I had.

That said, I then took the dirty oil and started filling the 5 quart jug I had, thinking I would over fill it, I didn't, only 5 quarts came out, if that :( I obviously didn't drain it all out, unless the factory didn't fill it right lol.

Anyway, took me all of 10 minutes. Will do trans and gear oils at 30k[/QUOTE/]
FYI, take the access door off so the oil can drain out from the oil filter. As long as the truck is level, either sitting on jack stands or on the ground it will drain down the "drain ramp" and out the hole. The minute you have the front end higher than the read it will drip behind the hole and make a mess.

After my first oil change, i havn't made a mess since.

Read up on the fluids change that is sticky'd in here, its helpful.

Thanks
 

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My dealer offers Mobil 5W-30 conventional oil. For 10 dollars more you can get 0W-20 Nissan semi-syn oil. But for $69.00 for the change USD they offer Mobil 1 5W-30 full synthetic oil as their premium service. I usually go this route because I tow frequently and I want the best in there...
I called Nissan regional office and they say only use the recommended oil in your manual as to not void out any warranty if you have any left. They told me only use 5W-30 . They said 0W-20 or 5W-20 was to thin for manufacturers specs on the engine. Just some FYI.
 

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5 out of 4 dentists agree - that dentists aren't good at fractions.
 
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If you called ten different Nissan dealers you'd get at least 5 different answers if not more.
Because they make it up and don’t refer to a printed reference guide. Most people in the car business are not “car people”, they just work there like any other business.
I showed up to my dealership in a 655 wheel horsepower Mustang GT with a heavy cam and none of the sales guys standing outside cared. Some of the other customers were like holy crap the ground shakes from that car. I can break the tires loose in 4th gear at almost 50 mph.

Clint
 
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