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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When looking to lift or level out my truck I came across an delima. I wanted the two inch lift in the front without lifting the rear. This makes the truck sit pretty much level. With the raked angle our trucks came with, it was intened to ride level with a load in the bed. The first two inches of rear suspension travel will be taken up by a few hundred pounds of weight. Therefore if the truck sits level when unloaded it never will sit level when loaded. The solution is a variable spring rate rear suspension.

The Firestone Ride Rite airbags simply add to the stock suspension rather than changing it. I am using the stock shackle, and leaf spring pack, I am simply placing an airbag between the axle and the frame. The leaf pack sits pretty much flat with jsut the wheight of the truck. There have been post saying that shackles make your leafs flat. This is false. They have always been flat. Nothing wronge with that, this insures that the axles have plently of negative travel. Look at the front axles of Ford 3/4 and one tons the leafs are actually reverse arced.


Ok with that said let me get to the meat potatoes. I bought them from performance suspension, Jerry at 800-572-3768. I got them for 235 shipped. This was the best deal I found. They were dropped shipped from Firestone in about a week. Can't say much for the vendor other than he did me right by this transaction.

First thing to do when getting the kit is to go get some good bolts. http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/showthread.php?t=16665&highlight=firestone+airbags+install
The kit comes with low grade carridge bolts that not only are low grade but are too long. You have to cut them to length. Remember this kit is jsut Firestone peiceing together a kit from their stock. I am sure that this kit has prices that fit all kinds of trucks. I did not get the shorter bolts so i went through the hassel of cutting and fitting.

The next step is to remove the stock bump stop. The instructions tell you to cut them off, but it is fat easier to jsut remove them. This way you can also put them back. I had the truck up on jack stands by the axel. Quickly zipped off the u-bolt nuts, removed the bump stop and tightened the nuts. Everything held together since the weight of the truck is on the axel and there is a bolt that holds things together, sortta.

Do the passenger side first it is much easier. I used a jack to lift the body up and inch or two, this gave me a little more space to work. Put the airbag assmbly together. Attache the full length of air line to the fitting. Squeeze the airbag down, slide in between top of leaf springs and frame. Attach u bolts and nuts. Leave loose. Here is where the new bolts come in. I would Thread the bolts up from the bottom and and put the nuts on top. The bolt head will be very close to the brake line and the e brake cable. YOu don't want any extra thread hanging down there rubbing on the lines. If you look at the forth pic it is very simular to what I did.

If you don't buy extra bolts and want to use the stock carriage bolts here is what you do. The square locking hole from the C-bolt is on top. Therefore any extra thread that you don't cut off will be dangerously close to the brake lines. I cut two bolts a little long and ground them down to fit. After I knew the exact right length, I cut the rest of the bolts to match. They are all the same size. The bottom channel piece has two holes. The front hole is a round hole but the back hole is more of a solt. The square locking surface fits in this slot perfectly. I tried grabbing the square section with a 7/16 open end but that didn't work very well. Instead I took a dremel with a small stone and made flats in the round hole for the carridge bolt. Once I almost had the flats I slammed the bolt head into the hole with a hammer. If I had a welder I would have thrown a little spot weld.

Tighten the eight nuts at the same time. Don't want to lock down either the top section or the bottom section before the other. You will run the risk of mounting the bag croket. See how mine kindda are. Flipping the bolts also allows one to use sockets on the self locking nuts. These are real self lockers. A few threads are bent so they will go on tight. Takes a little but of muscle to get them all the way snugged. Air tools baby.

I ran my airline to the bumper and drilled a hole through my bumper to the bottom holes of my licence plate. Looks pretty sweet. Run the line and cut the extra. I cut my line in half at the begining. In hind sight i would have jsut cut the extra line . This way you have one long section of extra line, to use as back up or for other lines, rather than two short worthless sections.

That was pretty easy, but you are not done yet. The driver side is a PITA. Along the frame runs the brake hard lines and the electrical bundel. The u-bolts get in the way. I simply poped out the plastic clips that hold the wire bundle and the brake line to the frame. And kindda bent them out of the way. The brake line rest on the top braket of the airbag. I am sure this is not a good thing. Even though the ubolt is part of the frame now. I am sure there is some vibrations that will cause the brake hard line and the braket to rub. I think i will go back there and wrap the brake line or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
From empty to full it seems that I could lift almost three inches. Though I would not use these bags for lift. I assume the ride will can be very stiff with alll those PSi's and no load. You can barely tell by these pics but the first on the no air. The secdond one is 50 psi and it is two + inches higher. You can run the bags up to 100 psi.

One other tip. Hose off the underside of your truck before working under it esspecially if it was muddy. Wear safetly glasses. Dirt in the eyes suck.

Here is another refernce.

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/showthread.php?t=3617&highlight=firestone+airbag

But he doesn't talk about the the brakes. And his link no longer work.
 

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Thanks for the write up and pics. I was wondering about these. I had seen the other link but the pics didn't work any more. I got a load of 400 bricks a while back and the back end sagged way down. I drove back-roads home and went slow but I didn't like the fact that the back end sagged so much. Do they improve the ride at all? Or are they really just for when you have a load back there? You spoke about off roading. Is there any way to disconect them?
 

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Small world, I just installed these yesterday too. I whole-heartedly agree with this info about the bolts and nuts. Carriage bolts with those oblong locking nuts make a very difficult pair - screw that chit. Replace the nuts with nylock nuts, and run the new grade-8 hex bolts from bottom to top. That will be incredibly easier.

I was pretty confused about what to do about the hard brake lines too, but I managed the bolt between the frame and brake lines.

Hopefully your thread will help future installers.

Nissan4Life said:
First thing to do when getting the kit is to go get some good bolts . . . The kit comes with low grade carridge bolts that not only are low grade but are too long. You have to cut them to length.

. . . Here is where the new bolts come in. I would Thread the bolts up from the bottom and and put the nuts on top. The bolt head will be very close to the brake line and the e brake cable. YOu don't want any extra thread hanging down there rubbing on the lines. If you look at the forth pic it is very simular to what I did.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I like the super lock nuts. I think they work well. I have even seen nylocks come undone. But these babies will never come undone. They are just a pain to get on.

There is no way to disconnect the air bags. I have not done much driving around with them. One memeber thinks that with about ten PSI worth of air it really smooths out the back end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
First picture are the bags empty. Zero Psi. Tire to wheel well measurment at 5.25".

Second picture at 80 psi. 7.75"

2.5 inches of total lift available in the rear, 0-80 psi. Air bags Max at 110 psi, so maybe 3 inch could be had.

I typically keep about 20 psi in there at all times.

I have had these for several months now and they work perfectly.

From the first picture, you can see that at stock height with my PRG spacer, the truck is pretty much level.
 

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i use 40 psi rear and 100 psi in front, the lift is @ 3" total with this pressure, here is some pics of it with 0 pressure and the pressure quoted
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Those might be different. But the firestone bags need a little air in them or they will tear at full flex. Also they replace the stock bump stops. So you need them to handle the bumps.
 

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Firestone Ride-Rite Install

Well I tried to install the Firestone Ride Rite air bags in my 2010 Frontier, however I could not fit the upper plate on the drivers side of the chassis due to a small box that is almost mounted on top of the upper chassis right in back of the fuel tank. It has a lot of hoses coming out of it and the plate interfered with the hoses. I would have had to relocate the box and I did not want to mess with that due to the warranty. I am returning the bags and asking for a refund.
 

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Well I tried to install the Firestone Ride Rite air bags in my 2010 Frontier, however I could not fit the upper plate on the drivers side of the chassis due to a small box that is almost mounted on top of the upper chassis right in back of the fuel tank. It has a lot of hoses coming out of it and the plate interfered with the hoses. I would have had to relocate the box and I did not want to mess with that due to the warranty. I am returning the bags and asking for a refund.
You might want to check out these threads first:

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f8/installed-firestone-air-bags-weekend-long-52869/

http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f8/firestone-air-bag-install-pics-52965/


JKG
 

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Very cool writeup! I just ordered mine this morning! 249.99 with free shipping!

What PSI is recommended for driving around normally when not loaded?
 

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I just installed the Firestone Ride Rite airbags on my Frontier. Thanks to this and other posts, I knew what to expect and the install went fine. Driver side is a bit of a pain in the a$$, but not too bad. I used grade 8 bolts on the lower brackets on the advice of previous reports, and I'm glad that I did. I installed a PRG mini lift at the same time and would like add a word of caution about the 1.5" blocks. They are too Long!! I wish that about 1/4" material was removed from both ends. The lower brackets are now "tipped a bit" because they contact the blocks. I am confident that the grade 8 bolts will be just fine so I am OK with it. The other option was to take them down to a machine shop, but I do not want the additional expense. Bob
 

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Not for me.

YMMV... IMHO... FWIW... :)

I just returned my Firestone kit. I had purchased it and planned to install it at the same time I did my PRG Advanced kit (2.5" lift in rear with Deaver AAL). I got the 2" lift blocks from Firestone for the airbags as well. With the slightly greater articulation the AAL will allow I just didn't have confidence in the bags that come with the kit.

The air bags in the kit are fully compressed at 2.8" and fully extended at 7"... that only gives you 4.2" of wheel travel. Fine for on-road and towing, not so great for off-roading. Firestone makes the #6410 bag which is the same config as the kit bag, except that it allows full extension to 8.3", giving you 5.5" overall travel. This helps some, but it's also an additional $140 online.

That combined with the complexity and durability issues that come with an airbag system and the warnings I've heard/read in various places to not off-road with airbags because they are so susceptible to damage (especially at full droop... my bags looked to be within a hair of ripping in half).

I only want to counteract sag when loaded down with camping gear or towing, so I decided to go the far simpler, cheaper, and more reliable option of the Hellwig EZ-550 (well under $62 from Summit Racing) which will add 500lbs. load balancing capacity to the rear springs. Eventually I'll do it right and get new leaf packs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I messing with the truck the other day after reading the most recent update to this thread by JMV. I lifted the rear of the truck by the frame to let the axle drop. I did not measure it but it seemed like at least 4 inches of droop occured before the wheels were off the ground. This coupled with the amount of compression travel would suggest that more than 4.2 inches of travel could occure. I suspect that more compression and extension is made possible by the weight of the truck/rear axle, that one can accomplish on a bench top. Not to discredit JMV on his oberservation, I believe that the airbags do limit the amount of rear suspesnion travel/articulation over stock, but it is not as bad as he claims.

I have been running the bags independently. Recently I link the two sides for a wheeling trip. Said that linking the two side give better articulation as air can leave the compressed bag and flow into the extended bag. Verdict is not out on this yet, but here is a discussion on the topic:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f26/linking-air-bags-83915/

An update after a hard wheeling trip. I will no longer be linking the rear air bags. It almost caused me to roll my truck after a dropped off a steep ledge. It was as if I has a sudden lose of spring rate on the side that supporting my truck.And in fact that was what happened. On the low side, the air left and when into the high side. DO not like. Will not do again.

Finally, an update on the durablity of the bags. I have been running these for about 5 years now and they have yet to leak. I live in snow country and see freezing conditions, graveled roads, and salt. I do however have very little miles on the truck. I jsut hit 50K and installed these bags maybe at about 10K. Most of these miles however have been either hauling something, off road or both. I drive a car, bike, motorcycle or the family truckster most of the time. I only drive the truck when I need a truck.

Hope this thread has been useful!

Bill
 

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Reason to be here

Fortunate for me I found this thread while looking for an alternative suspension kit to help level and support my ride while hauling wood and water. I hauled over 250gallons every other day sometimes every third day if I was good. During which I was not happy with the stock suspension compared to my last truck. I searched around and the only comprehensive information was from this thread about air ride systems. So in short I went with the Firestone Ride-Rite system as well, though no automatic controller. I went with the manual pressure independent system. Being as how it only cost me $350 to ensure I don't damage my truck while hauling heavy things in the bed, and eventually trailered loads, the install paid for itself quickly.

Point being, great post, lead me to what I needed, thanks. I got pictures of it in either my Garage tab, or my photo album.
 
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