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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Well I never claimed to be an expert in all matters, such as what bulb reflects better here or there. When I looked into the headlights, I was told that those were the ones that were made to work with the stock housings. I went to a place that specializes in vehicle lighting, and I went off the information I was given. Like I said, I'm open to suggestions and feedback if you know of a better way. That's part of the reason I'm on this forum to begin with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #82 ·
First thing I finally got to this weeks was a little cable management. After installing the light bars, the wires were bothering me a bit, and I have been meaning to clean that up. Found some braided sleeves to run it through on amazon, and an afternoon's work was all it took.

Before:
Engine Vehicle Auto part Car Automotive engine part


Went with a braid that was black and blue, so it works with the truck, but also looks unique enough that I will know that those are wires I put in. Won't be confusing them with any of the factory setup.

After:
Land vehicle Vehicle Engine Auto part Car
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
In other news, After getting a lot of feedback on here, and some research, I removed the HID bulbs from the headlights and went back to the stock bulbs. Gonna be looking into some other options to get the look I'm after. In the meantime, At least they will work properly.
 

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Look into retrofitting projectors into some stock headlights. It's pretty easy and you will get good lighting without blinding oncoming traffic with tons of glare.

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First thing I finally got to this weeks was a little cable management. After installing the light bars, the wires were bothering me a bit, and I have been meaning to clean that up. Found some braided sleeves to run it through on amazon, and an afternoon's work was all it took.
With all those wires going to your single battery terminal, I'd suggest looking into adding a distribution block of some sort inline. ::wink::
 

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Discussion Starter · #86 · (Edited)
Fireman Spock's 2016 SV CC/LB build "Blue"

With all those wires going to your single battery terminal, I'd suggest looking into adding a distribution block of some sort inline. ::wink::


I haven’t been able to find one that seems to fit what I need. I worry about them not being rated high enough to be safe. Do you have any suggestions? I found this one, but no reviews on it.

Sugeryy X Automotive Car Vehicle Audio Five-Way Power Ground Distribution Fuse Holder Block

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I haven’t been able to find one that seems to fit what I need. I worry about them not being rated high enough to be safe. Do you have any suggestions? I found this one, but no reviews on it.

Sugeryy X Automotive Car Vehicle Audio Five-Way Power Ground Distribution Fuse Holder Block https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756XZRTZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vZb2zbZHY5D8S

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How many wires do you have going to the battery, and what gauge? I'll see what I can find
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Everything is in a fuse/relay box I bought. What I did was follow the paths that were in the factory wiring harnesses for the light bars, and then just used the box to have everything consolidated into one assembly instead of having a bunch of inline fuses and relays dangling around. Everything is in the same sequence as it would have been had I stayed with the factory harnesses though.

This is a pic of the box I bought.
Technology Electronics Electronic device Auto part Electronic component
 

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Everything is in a fuse/relay box I bought. What I did was follow the paths that were in the factory wiring harnesses for the light bars, and then just used the box to have everything consolidated into one assembly instead of having a bunch of inline fuses and relays dangling around. Everything is in the same sequence as it would have been had I stayed with the factory harnesses though.

This is a pic of the box I bought.
View attachment 259450
I don't know why I missed that in the second photo (maybe because I was looking on a phone screen)... anyhow, I have an idea to make the install look cleaner but I have to fact-check something first, I 'll get back to you =D
 

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OKAY HERE GOES I hope you can follow my train of thought:

- You have 5 wires, 16-ga going to the battery individually
- Looks like each wire is no longer than 4-feet in length from battery to your fuse/relay box
- One 16-ga wire is rated for 15 amps max (at 2 to 4-feet)
- Multiply by 5, the math says 75 amps max if everything is turned on
- One 10-ga wire is rated for 70-amps max (at 2 to 4-feet) - not enough, BUT...
- ...One 8-ga wire is rated for 120-amps max (at 2 to 4-feet) - more than enough.

I would cut out one of the open areas in the fuse/relay box (the center portion of the box that gets sandwiched between the bottom and the cover pieces) and mount a junction block to it, something like this:


Link to item on Amazon.com: http://a.co/1NvQfXQ

Next I'd solder up a single "main cable" out of 8-ga wire with ring terminals at both ends. This main cable will run from the junction block, out the bottom of the fuse/relay box, to the battery (+) terminal.

From here, I'd use shorter 16-ga wires with a ring terminal at one end to connect each relay's 12v terminal to the junction block.

This would make everything cleaner, with one single wire to the battery terminal. On top of that, if you ever want to use the extra fuse spots in your fuse/relay box for other lower current accessories, you just have to run 12v to the junction block (which is already in the fuse/relay box), and the 8-ga main cable will still have enough reserve capacity to handle any extra amp draw. You won't have a spaghetti of wires (and a bunch of ring terminals) running to the battery terminal.
::smile::
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
No, I'm not dead. Just been busy with life lately. Had a lot of other things going on with work and all, just haven't had time to do much else. Recently upgraded my Seat covers with a custom fit, and nicer material/pattern. The $20 set from Amazon held up well for the almost 2 years since I got them, but i wanted something better. Especially something custom made for the rear split bench seat so I could actually open one side of the bench without having to open both at once. Ordered these from Marathon Seat Covers, and they arrived just in time for the holidays. Love how they fit, nice quality, Cordura nylon. These will last for a long time I think...

Old: Car seat cover Car seat Vehicle Car Motor vehicle


New: Car seat cover Vehicle Car Car seat Motor vehicle


Inspired by the Asset Containment Unit costume from Jurassic World:
Soldier Gun Firearm Military uniform Military


I have some patches like the ones in the costume, and I'll be adding them in the near future. The color isn't exact to the movie, but its close, and with the gray interior, it all fits in my opinion. I was looking at some vinyl decals with that pattern for some parts of the dash, such as the a/c vent, and the lower control panel. I like the pattern and it matches the theme nicely.

A few mockups for the placement of the patches:
Car seat cover Car seat Vehicle Car Family car

Car seat cover Car seat Vehicle Car Family car

Still haven't decided exactly what I'm gonna do there, but I'm leaning towards the dark one on the headrest. Seems to blend in better than the other one.
 
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