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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So i've decided to consolidate my build threads into one thread just to keep things organized. I've seen a few of you guys name your builds, and I've been wanting to do the same, but wasn't able to settle on an appropriate name. Suddenly, it came to me... BLUE. My reasoning here is that overall, I'm putting a Jurassic Park/World feel to a lot of what I do to her. JP is my favorite movie of all time, and I did enjoy the sequels to varying degrees. And considering the body color -Arctic Blue Metallic- the name just fits. My previous threads will have links in here so you can look them up, but I wont be posting anything new in them, just in here.

I'll do my best to give credit where credit is due for the inspiration/advice for what I do. If I forget for whatever reason, let me know and I'll make sure to include it. For example, the format for this thread was inspired by raine


2016 Frontier CC/LB SV/VTP 4.0L V6 2wd

List of exterior mods:
Steelcraft 54090 grille guard: post #03
Steelcraft 34110 tail light guards: post #03
Tyger Auto TG-AM2N20158 Side Step Rails
OEM roof rack: post # 04
Auxbeam X-Series LED light bars: 2x 12", front grille spot lights: post #32
1x 32" front grille flood lights: post #32
1x32" roof spot lights: post #60
Light bars Wiring completed.
13" inch offroad antenna replacing factory antenna.
Standard anchor points added to cargo bed. Post #43
Trailer outlet relocated to bumper Post #68

List of interior mods:
Integrated garage door opener: post #05, and #28
12v dash outlet replaced with 2xUSB 2.1A outlet. Post #41, #42
12v outlet and 2xUSB 2.1A outlet mounted on the back of the center console. Post #35, #36
5x Toggle switch panel added to overhead console to control Light bars. Post #44


Planned features
(subject to change)
Custom seat covers.
Black rear bumper.
Flush mount LED lights on rear bumper.
Titan bed rails.
 

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Welcome to the build section haha
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Integrated garage door opener mod. Credit goes to the following post in this thread: http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f8/where-mount-additional-switches-accessories-260562/
2015 Pro-4X (same package) here... I was able to find a couple places that worked well for additional switches.

My internal and external lighting are on the overhead console. I was able to get a button left of the Bluetooth mic for my garage door and five switches to the right for lights and such.

This one was fairly straightforward. This was to be mounted on the overhead console next to the Bluetooth mic. I opened up the remote and pulled out the board. I picked up some 2-pin connectors to use for this project.



After identifying the proper terminals, I used a soldering iron to attach the plug. Not my cleanest work, but given the sensitivity of the components, I didn't want to push it.


Using a dremel, I cut a hole in the top of the casing to run the wire out. I used some Velcro dots to secure the remote to the inside of the panel.


Next I'll post a pic of a small mistake I made which will cost me about $8 to learn my lesson.


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Discussion Starter #6
Fireman Spock's 2016 SV CC/LB build "Blue"

What should have been the easy part of this mod bit me. Rule of thumb: measure TWICE, cut ONCE. I didn't follow that rule. Because of that, I was hit by another rule: two objects cannot occupy the same point in space at the same time. The space refers to the space behind that little panel.
The two objects are:
1-Bluetooth mic.
2-Back of the push button.

I had to recut the hole, and cutout a piece of plastic to hold it in now. Checked with the local dealership, will take 5 days and just under $8 for a replacement panel. Lesson learned.



The good news is, the system works. So, I'll give myself a 9/10 on execution.
 

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Just a suggestion - you could probably save some space/weight by dumping the clicker enclosure altogether. Some hot glue or velcro for mounting would probably do the trick.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That was definitely an idea I toyed with. However if for whatever reason I ever needed to have a rental vehicle, if Blue -god forbid- ends up in the shop, I'd like to be able to take the clicker with me. The 2-pin connector allows it to be unplugged easily.


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Wow all those mods look great....
Any guy that can drill holes on the roof of his pretty much brand new pick-up is OK in my book !
LOL
 

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I wanna do the clicker mod too, I was looking at my truck today and wished I had the arrangement my old Silverado had
it had a universal 3 button click built in and was not battery powered
I am gonna try to run power to it
and do this mod
 

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What should have been the easy part of this mod bit me. Rule of thumb: measure TWICE, cut ONCE. I didn't follow that rule. Because of that, I was hit by another rule: two objects cannot occupy the same point in space at the same time. The space refers to the space behind that little panel.
The two objects are:
1-Bluetooth mic.
2-Back of the push button.

I had to recut the hole, and cutout a piece of plastic to hold it in now. Checked with the local dealership, will take 5 days and just under $8 for a replacement panel. Lesson learned.



The good news is, the system works. So, I'll give myself a 9/10 on execution.
BTW what was the part number

I am looking to do this but I want a backup plate to rely on if I screw thing up
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
BTW what was the part number

I am looking to do this but I want a backup plate to rely on if I screw thing up
Here's the story about why I have no part number...

Ok, so heres something interesting. When I went to order the part I needed, they asked for my VIN, so that they could look up parts for my specific vehicle. I even took the part that i wanted to replace with me, so there would be no confusion. They order the part, then a few days later I go to pick it up. Not only did they order the wrong part, they ordered the wrong color too. My truck has a gray interior, not tan... The guy that was there that day then proceeds to tell me that the part I was looking for is probably not sold separately, and that it most likely comes as a unit with the entire overhead console. I then ask how much that would be, and he just looks at me and says he doesn't know. Doesn't even bother to look it up. I have a very low tolerance for people that are that lazy at their job. Then again, in my line of work, if I was that useless, people die.

In the end, looks like I'm gonna have to do more searching for that part, and they wouldn't even give me a part number to search for. Not for the panel, or for the overhead console. So, I worked a little "frontier" medicine -pun intended- and used a fender washer with the proper inner diameter for the switch, and wide enough to cover the hole. Not the prettiest job, but it will work for now.

 

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I made the soldered all the wires to make my remote powered by my truck, but can't get myself to drill a hole in my new truck


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Not gonna say that washer looks good... lol
 

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So, I worked a little "frontier" medicine -pun intended- and used a fender washer with the proper inner diameter for the switch, and wide enough to cover the hole. Not the prettiest job, but it will work for now.
^^^ That is what I call that ingenuity folks!!! ::laugh:: It looks good as a replacement but do not expect to put a fire out with that (pun intended) As a handyman, I would have done the same until I had the actual part come in! ::wink::
 

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Discussion Starter #17
^^^ That is what I call that ingenuity folks!!! ::laugh:: It looks good as a replacement but do not expect to put a fire out with that (pun intended) As a handyman, I would have done the same until I had the actual part come in! ::wink::
I've found a few on eBay for around $70-$80. Gonna see how this week's paycheck looks...
 

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Not gonna say that washer looks good... lol

That reminds me of something my son-in-law did that cracked me up.
He went to Home Depot to get some 3/8" stainless steel washers. They
wanted .32 each for them so he went home and drilled holes in a stack
of nickels and used them for washers instead. ::smile::
 

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When I did my original Door Opener modification, I was able to cut a trace (the positive power) on the opener circuit board and insert an LM7809 three terminal regulator. It essentially drops the trucks 12v down to 9v to match the battery voltage for the opener. I then jumpered the push button on the opener so it was on all the time.

To 'operate' the opener, I just apply 12v from my push button near the bluetooth mic. It makes it easier if you want to mount the opener somewhere other than the overhead console. Added benefit is not having to change 9v batteries.

I looked into replacing the Homelink mirror, but the one with Compass, Temp, and Remote Control was near $300... The mod cost me $30 for a remote off ebay and a $3 switch from Radio Shack.
 
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