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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just picked up my 2012 SV CC with 90k on the clock. Turns out it needs a rear end(think the pinion is shot) . Thankfully its covered by warranty. According to the tech, the fluid that came out was atrocious and looked to have never been changed. As such I am going to change all the fluids in the truck. My issue is all the conflicting opinions on the transmission.

1. The manual lists no service interval, and some say if it hasn't been changed for 90k leave it alone.

2. Personally I lean towards taking it in for a total flush, but some say that's the worse thing to do.

3. Drain and fill seems to not have any downside but what benefit is changing 4 out of 10 quarts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Actually the Service Maintenance Guide suggest replacement every 20K or 24M if any towing or off roading is involved...
Ok....missed that. Since I don't know if any of that has been done, I'll assume it has.

Now the question is, full flush or drain and refill?
 

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... and some say if it hasn't been changed for 90k leave it alone...
That is advise that I absolutely can NOT subscribe to... Yeah let's leave aged & degrading oil in because it's already been in there too long!

Either get it flushed by a shop with the proper tools or be prepared to do a couple of drain and fills if doing it yourself...

Ok....missed that. Since I don't know if any of that has been done, I'll assume it has.

Now the question is, full flush or drain and refill?
Nissan is a little wonky in that they make you reference both the Owner's Manual and a Service Maintenance Guide to get all the info needed...

If your missing these manuals you can easily Google them and download PDF files for free...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
no auto manual on the planet has told you to do nothing on your vehicle for service.


lol you read the cover and set it down???
I didn't say it said to do nothing, I said it doesn't list a service interval for the transmission. All the other fluid services are clearly listed. However I am now learning that there are 2 places to look.

My issue is that I've seen a few horror stories on this forum about doing a flush after not doing anything for so long.
 

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many theories are out there on the full flush at a higher mileage. I had a friend flush the trans on my old Chevy K blazer at about 100K and the trans started slipping within a month or two. Coincidental? possibly. Something to the point of all the new fluid knocking gunk loose but a couple of quarts not really doing this.

With that said, I would prefer a simple drain and fill and then a second one an oil change or two down the road.
 

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many theories are out there on the full flush at a higher mileage. I had a friend flush the trans on my old Chevy K blazer at about 100K and the trans started slipping within a month or two. Coincidental? possibly. Something to the point of all the new fluid knocking gunk loose but a couple of quarts not really doing this.

With that said, I would prefer a simple drain and fill and then a second one an oil change or two down the road.
i agree, i just do a drain and fill about every year to year and a half and im at 170k cruising like a boss.
fyi i get after it offroad as well, so its been a decent test mule.
 

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IMO, any transmission so sick that merely adding fresh ATF kills it...probably wasn't long for this world anyway.

You could drain and refill the pan a dozen times - and STILL have a sizable amount of old ATF circulating through the transmission. You're diluting it somewhat with fresh ATF, but you're never going to get rid of all of it that way.

I say flush it.
 

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I had a 2002 VW TDI with an auto, was told at 120k miles to NOT TOUCH IT. I didn't and followed that theory, it was what all the mechanics at VW told me. After more research I ignored them, changed the mud in the tranny and refilled with fresh ATV. Sold it last week with 170k miles on it, transmission shifted perfect.

The theory is that the old crusty fluid is "holding" everything together. I'll change the fluid if it was me
 

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I've heard this theory too. I think it's one of those things where it's probably only true for certain makes & models but people assume it's everything. seems to be mostly true for certain american trucks I'd say, but if it were me i'd change it too, it would bug me too much having dirty molasses in my transmission or diffs.
 

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I had a 2002 VW TDI with an auto, was told at 120k miles to NOT TOUCH IT. I didn't and followed that theory, it was what all the mechanics at VW told me. After more research I ignored them, changed the mud in the tranny and refilled with fresh ATV. Sold it last week with 170k miles on it, transmission shifted perfect.

The theory is that the old crusty fluid is "holding" everything together. I'll change the fluid if it was me
Drain and fill is one thing. A machine flush is another.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yes I'm talking drain and fill, none of this flush crap
I think that's the route I am going. I'll do a drain and fill with the next 3 oil changes.

I might even drain/fill it then drive it a few miles and do another drain and fill right away.
 

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I remember seeing or reading a trick about draining all of the old fluid. if there is a transmission cooler you can unhook the line there, start the truck and the fluid will chug out. start pouring in new fluid at the same time, and when you see all of the old dirty fluid purge out and it turns into the new fluid coming out, you know all of the old stuff is out. then re-fill with the same amount of new. never done it myself nor am I aware if the fronty even has a cooler (just got the truck) but it would be an interesting way. as far as the 'flushes' go i thought the shops ran some kind of cleaner through the system in a 'flush'. so i didnt really wanna use the term 'flush' here but i guess technically it would be...
 

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Drain and fill IMO, is something to start at like 15k. And every 15k then on. The point is your replacement of 1/3 to 1/2 of the fluid. So that your somewhat always running fresh fluids. But once you’ve gone pass to all dirty fluid. Then you should do a flush. Then drain and fill from then on. Just my belief


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Drain and fill IMO, is something to start at like 15k. And every 15k then on. The point is your replacement of 1/3 to 1/2 of the fluid.
You're not replacing 1/3 to 1/2 of the old fluid - You're replacing a mixture of old and new fluid.
 
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