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Discussion Starter #1
I've had my 05 Frontier V6 CC since Dec of 04 and the only mechanical issue I have had was the intake rattle at a certain RPM but was taken care of a LONG time ago. My truck is 100% stock with 56k miles and has gone through regular maintenance through Nissan. Lately I have been noticing what seems to be the cooling fans on at all times (maybe not sure) but for sure no matter the temp, even cold, when I take off I can hear the fans very audible over the motor itself as if the fans are spinning up really high with the RPM revs. Kinda reminds me of an 18 wheeler taking off the way it sounds with their huge fans. I did notice one day last week when I was idleing with the a/c on full blast on a hot day the temp needle went to H for a second or two then went back down to normal soon after. I've been monitoring it now on a regular basis and have not seen it go back up since even when idleing. But the fans are definitely humming along very loudly as the motor revs that's for sure.
 

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May be time for a coolant flush and to replace the Tstat, may want to swap in an OEM 350z Tstat while you are at it.

If the problem presists, then it may be your fan/clutch assembly. I believe it is a fluid clutch in which when it gets hot, the fluid locks up and makes the fan turn quicker. When it is cold, the fan is allowed to slip. Try the coolant flush first and then go from there.

P.S. From your description, I doubt it is your tensioner or your timing chains.
 

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One thing I like to do for customers is use my blow gun and blow out all the crap that accumulates on the front of the radiator and between the radiator and condenser. It's amazing how that debris effects coolant temps. and a/c cooling.
 

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Sounds like the fan clutch is baked. Not sure about the temp the other day but if yout hearing the fan , loud all the time,good bet its the clutch gone. One other thing , do you notice a big power loss as well ? The reason I say this is my clutch fan went about a month ago, fan was always on , loud and I had a major power loss.
I checked it by opening the hood, getting the wife to start the truck and watching it for a bit , got her to rev it up after a min or two and it was definly stuck on soild , it was blowing air outta the hood like mad. Just remember they will always turn with the engine running , difference is they just roll with the motor till they heat up, then they run soild with the motor.

With the truck off, the fan should be able to be spun by hand freely.Now when its gone it will spin but pretty slowly, it won't freely spin around on its own thats for sure.

It was 120$ Cad and 45mins start to finsh to change out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
May be time for a coolant flush and to replace the Tstat, may want to swap in an OEM 350z Tstat while you are at it.


I just started reading about the 350Z tstat swap, what exactly does it do to be effective? Open sooner at a lower temp?


If the problem presists, then it may be your fan/clutch assembly. I believe it is a fluid clutch in which when it gets hot, the fluid locks up and makes the fan turn quicker. When it is cold, the fan is allowed to slip. Try the coolant flush first and then go from there.

After I wrote that first post I went for another drive by this time the sun had gone down enough where it wasn't as hot and didn't really hear the fans like I did earlier today. So maybe it isn't the fluid lock up thing?

P.S. From your description, I doubt it is your tensioner or your timing chains.
One thing I like to do for customers is use my blow gun and blow out all the crap that accumulates on the front of the radiator and between the radiator and condenser. It's amazing how that debris effects coolant temps. and a/c cooling.
Yea where I am from we have a lot of bugs that accumulate there but mine looks pretty normal.

Sounds like the fan clutch is baked. Not sure about the temp the other day but if yout hearing the fan , loud all the time,good bet its the clutch gone. One other thing , do you notice a big power loss as well ? The reason I say this is my clutch fan went about a month ago, fan was always on , loud and I had a major power loss.
I checked it by opening the hood, getting the wife to start the truck and watching it for a bit , got her to rev it up after a min or two and it was definly stuck on soild , it was blowing air outta the hood like mad. Just remember they will always turn with the engine running , difference is they just roll with the motor till they heat up, then they run soild with the motor.

With the truck off, the fan should be able to be spun by hand freely.Now when its gone it will spin but pretty slowly, it won't freely spin around on its own thats for sure.

It was 120$ Cad and 45mins start to finsh to change out.
I definitely don't feel any power loss because I gunned it quite a few times and it accelerates normally. I was trying to see if the fans would spin out of their bearings from running the RPMs up really high lol. :laugh:
 

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The 350z Tstat is set to open at a lower temp. A lot of members have chosen to go this route to help keep the motor cool especially since it costs no more then the Frontier Tstat.

LOL, may be time for an efan mod. Depending on the fans and controller, it can be as cheap as 100-150 bucks total.
 

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Well, your coolant needs to be flushed every 2 years to be on the safe side or around every 30k miles. The manual states that it doesn't need to be done for 100k but it is easy to do and cheap insurance.

To test a Tstat, you would have to remove it and drop it into water that is above its opening temp. At this point, just replace it and go on with your business since it is already out.

The mech fan should turn easily when it has been siting for hours and has had time to cool. Then after the truck is up to temp, then the fan should be extremely hard to turn. If it is hard even while cold, then the fluid clutch is hosed.

P.S. The Tstat should be less then 20 bucks and make sure you buy the 50/50 premix to save yourself some time. I think I went thru 1.5-1.7 jugs when I drained my radiator and changed my Tstat.
 

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are you sure the sound your hearing isn't the timing chain tensioner problem? does it sound likes its winding up like one? just from the description, I would check that too. I know that for free a mechanic where I bought my truck from will come out and listen to any sound for free just to get his 2 cents, some are familiar sounds of warranty stuff they see and hear everyday, despite them being rip offs they (in general) still have some knowledge to TSBs and recalls.
 

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Well, since West brought up the tensioner issue. Does your sound seem like you have a supercharger under the hood? If so, then it is your tensioners and you need to get to the dealer ASAP.

I know a member posted a sound clip of his on YouTube so you may find it there for a comparison.

I believe the first 2 links relate to the timing chain issue: YouTube - frontier timing chain tensioner
 

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Discussion Starter #11
are you sure the sound your hearing isn't the timing chain tensioner problem? does it sound likes its winding up like one? just from the description, I would check that too. I know that for free a mechanic where I bought my truck from will come out and listen to any sound for free just to get his 2 cents, some are familiar sounds of warranty stuff they see and hear everyday, despite them being rip offs they (in general) still have some knowledge to TSBs and recalls.
I really doubt it's that because it sounds more like fans blowing.

Well, your coolant needs to be flushed every 2 years to be on the safe side or around every 30k miles. The manual states that it doesn't need to be done for 100k but it is easy to do and cheap insurance.

To test a Tstat, you would have to remove it and drop it into water that is above its opening temp. At this point, just replace it and go on with your business since it is already out.

The mech fan should turn easily when it has been siting for hours and has had time to cool. Then after the truck is up to temp, then the fan should be extremely hard to turn. If it is hard even while cold, then the fluid clutch is hosed.

P.S. The Tstat should be less then 20 bucks and make sure you buy the 50/50 premix to save yourself some time. I think I went thru 1.5-1.7 jugs when I drained my radiator and changed my Tstat.
Ya know come to think of it I don't think Nissan flushed the radiator when it was due. I had it brought in at 30k and they flushed the tranny fluid I know that but I don't remember the paperwork saying radiator fluid too. I coud be wrong though. Is a radiator flush included at 30k maintenance? Regardless it's time for a flush/refill and tstat anyway.

I just went outside and tried turning the fan. The truck has been sitting for a day and a half. I just reached down and put one finger on the fan blade and spun it as hard as I could with one finger and it spun maybe another blade and a half? Definitely did not free spin it had some tension on it put it wasn't stuck either. I mean one finger could spin it enough to where the next blade or maybe 2 blades not sure because it's dark right now.

Well, since West brought up the tensioner issue. Does your sound seem like you have a supercharger under the hood? If so, then it is your tensioners and you need to get to the dealer ASAP.

I know a member posted a sound clip of his on YouTube so you may find it there for a comparison.

I believe the first 2 links relate to the timing chain issue: YouTube - frontier timing chain tensioner
Well now that I watched that video it's for sure not the tensioner cause it doesn't sound like that at all. It really just sounds like the fan is running abnormally higher rpms.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK guys...

I called the Nissan dealership and briefly described what was happening and she said it sounded like the fan clutch was not disengaging but that I had to bring it in and for $50 they will tell me what's wrong with it. Sounds like $50 plus faulty part cost plus labor and this could get expensive! She also said radiator fluid is due to be flushed and refilled every 30k and that the tstat is not to be replaced until 100k unless it's faulty of course. She insisted that they are not to be changed out every 30k like the fluid.

But I would have to agree that it sounds like only when the motor is at operating temp, very hot outside, truck has been idling or running hard, and the a/c is on full blast the fan will turn higher rpms and hear it very audibly. But when the a/c is off, windows down, cool outside, not idling for along time and running normal I don't hear the fan at all like I do the other way I described it. The coolant level looks normal too. But for some reason now that I've been paying attention there might be a coolant odor from inside the truck when the ac is blowing. Not sure what the odor is supposed to smell like for it to be coolant but if I would have to guess it would be that.

Also, after doing a bit of reading on here I read some things that puzzled me. My truck has never in the almost 5 years I've had it produced heat when the heater is on in the winter if the truck is idling. In other words, starting the truck and turning the heater on full blast on a cold morning to let it warm up inside before hopping in and driving off is not gonna happen. I have to be driving to get heat from the heater. That's been since day 1 of ownership and thought it was normal. Is this normal?

Another thing now that I'm looking back my truck used to have the percolating sound of air bubbles in the dash the first couple maybe even few years of ownership, once again thought it was normal. However, that sound finally went away on its own a long time ago, maybe a year or so? Just thought I'd throw that in there too.
 

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The last two items you described, I have on my truck and have heard them since i bought the vehicle. Thought it was normal as well, but also hear a whine noise but is VERY low and only on certain RPMs, as well if you open the door while pressing the gas from a stop sign you can hear a 'clatter' for a quick second then goes away but returns if u step back on the gas quick. Not sure if thats normal either.
My fan also comes on when I Idle for a long time or its hot out, but as soon as the rpm's pick up it disengages and stops spinning with the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Still haven't got this issue looked at yet due to not having time or funds put aside or both, anyone else wanna chime in? I feel some power loss now it seems like and the gas mileage went from tolerable (over the past 5 years I've had it) to wanting to get rid of the truck all together because the gas mileage is so horribly bad and the truck is even paid off.
 

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Well, the way I see it you have a few options -

a) Take it to a dealer or an indipendent shop and pay the $50 - $100 and have it diagnosed and fixed or fix it yourself. You mentioned tight funds so fixing it yourself is probably a better bet. Regardless, $50 or whatever isnt going to break the bank to figure out what is going on with your truck. I wouldnt wait, especially considering your truck overheated at one point. I am sure you dont want blown headgaskets or worse from overheating your vehicle.

b) Replace radiator $135 (radiatorbarn) clutch fan $127 (online, may find cheaper) T-stat $30 (online, may find cheaper), and coolant.

I would go with option b. Not that your radiator is bad, but its cheap insurance against the potential failed internal transmission cooler that could fry your tranny. Plus your cooling system would be completely overhauled (aside from waterpump) and you would be good to go for some time.

Again, cheap insurance.
 

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My truck was doing the EXACT SAME THING... had me baffled.

RIGHT AFTER NISSAN FLUSHED MY RADIATOR.

When you shut the truck off, do you hear liquid moving around under the dash when the engine is warmed up?

If so, it's air pockets in the coolant lines, meaning you have a lot of air space in the radiator, heater core, etc..

THE FIX:

Before starting the truck in the morning (no pressure on the coolant system at all) .. open the cap on the radiator and the cap off of the coolant tank, start the truck with the heater on high, if there isn't coolant right at the cap of the radiator, begin to fill the radiator directly with coolant until it stops filling up. Fill the coolant tank a wee bit above the full line.

See if that works.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Well, the way I see it you have a few options -

a) Take it to a dealer or an indipendent shop and pay the $50 - $100 and have it diagnosed and fixed or fix it yourself. You mentioned tight funds so fixing it yourself is probably a better bet. Regardless, $50 or whatever isnt going to break the bank to figure out what is going on with your truck. I wouldnt wait, especially considering your truck overheated at one point. I am sure you dont want blown headgaskets or worse from overheating your vehicle.

b) Replace radiator $135 (radiatorbarn) clutch fan $127 (online, may find cheaper) T-stat $30 (online, may find cheaper), and coolant.

I would go with option b. Not that your radiator is bad, but its cheap insurance against the potential failed internal transmission cooler that could fry your tranny. Plus your cooling system would be completely overhauled (aside from waterpump) and you would be good to go for some time.

Again, cheap insurance.
How would Nissan diagnose the problem if it's not throwing a code? If there even is a code why would it not throw a check engine light? I mean I can tell anyone what it's doing or not doing. I hate paying $50 or more just to tell me hey your fan clutch is bad. But knowing these modern trucks it could be anything or something different all together. So I don't know.

My truck was doing the EXACT SAME THING... had me baffled.

RIGHT AFTER NISSAN FLUSHED MY RADIATOR.

When you shut the truck off, do you hear liquid moving around under the dash when the engine is warmed up?

If so, it's air pockets in the coolant lines, meaning you have a lot of air space in the radiator, heater core, etc..

THE FIX:

Before starting the truck in the morning (no pressure on the coolant system at all) .. open the cap on the radiator and the cap off of the coolant tank, start the truck with the heater on high, if there isn't coolant right at the cap of the radiator, begin to fill the radiator directly with coolant until it stops filling up. Fill the coolant tank a wee bit above the full line.

See if that works.
See below

SulphurDave said:
Another thing now that I'm looking back my truck used to have the percolating sound of air bubbles in the dash the first couple maybe even few years of ownership, once again thought it was normal. However, that sound finally went away on its own a long time ago, maybe a year or so? Just thought I'd throw that in there too.
Sounds like the fan clutch is baked. Not sure about the temp the other day but if yout hearing the fan , loud all the time,good bet its the clutch gone. One other thing , do you notice a big power loss as well ? The reason I say this is my clutch fan went about a month ago, fan was always on , loud and I had a major power loss.
I checked it by opening the hood, getting the wife to start the truck and watching it for a bit , got her to rev it up after a min or two and it was definly stuck on soild , it was blowing air outta the hood like mad. Just remember they will always turn with the engine running , difference is they just roll with the motor till they heat up, then they run soild with the motor.

With the truck off, the fan should be able to be spun by hand freely.Now when its gone it will spin but pretty slowly, it won't freely spin around on its own thats for sure.

It was 120$ Cad and 45mins start to finsh to change out.
Now that I'm starting to feel a bit of power loss I bet this is the reason. So how many miles did yours have when yours went out? And was it loud all the time no matter the rpms or what? I might go to the Nissan dealer and ask if I can go spin a fan on a new one just to feel the difference. "So you wanna take her for a spin around the block?" "No but I do wanna spin the fan!"
 

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How would Nissan diagnose the problem if it's not throwing a code?

They would most likely run it and test drive it to try and duplicate the problem.


Now that I'm starting to feel a bit of power loss I bet this is the reason. So how many miles did yours have when yours went out? And was it loud all the time no matter the rpms or what? I might go to the Nissan dealer and ask if I can go spin a fan on a new one just to feel the difference. "So you wanna take her for a spin around the block?" "No but I do wanna spin the fan!"
Shouldnt be an issue. Go to service and advise them of the issue you are having. Ask if you or they would be able to check a new truck to see if its doing the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Also, after doing a bit of reading on here I read some things that puzzled me. My truck has never in the almost 5 years I've had it produced heat when the heater is on in the winter if the truck is idling. In other words, starting the truck and turning the heater on full blast on a cold morning to let it warm up inside before hopping in and driving off is not gonna happen. I have to be driving to get heat from the heater. That's been since day 1 of ownership and thought it was normal. Is this normal?
I over filled the coolant tank like most say on this board and that fixed it. Drove to work, sat in the parking lot with it running and it blew scalding hot air for as long as I could take it. Before... it would start blowing cool air as soon as I got off the interstate driving slow or at the redlight.

:goodjob:
 
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