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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have had a overheating issue that just popped up. If I am sitting in traffic for more than 10 min or so the old girl starts to overheat. I did a quick inspection and everything seems to be OK, no leaks, both fans run etc. I replaced the radiator and expansion tanks caps because it was quick and cheap.
As soon as I start to move again or if I turn the heater on full blast the temp drops, so after a little searching around it appears to be a problem with either the fan clutch or water pump.
So before I drop between $50-100 on a clutch or start tearing the front down to get to the pump does anyone have any other suggestions that I could investigate? Also, is there a way to tell if the fan clutch or water pump is bad other than the overheating issue?
Thanks!
 

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Aren't the caps suppose to hold a certain psi? If it was cheap maybe you got what you paid for? You know how hard it is to get all the air out of the coolant system, have you drained it recently?
 

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both fans run etc.
If yours has electric fans, then no fan clutch.


I replaced the radiator and expansion tanks caps because it was quick and cheap.
As soon as I start to move again or if I turn the heater on full blast the temp drops, so after a little searching around it appears to be a problem with either the fan clutch or water pump.
Since you just replaced the radiator, I also say to make sure ALL the air is bled out of the system. I also doubt that water pump impeller blades are so corroded that coolant doesn't flow well. I'd check the thermostat too, but remeber about air in the system. Yes, radiator or coolant tank cap must be OK too.


the old girl starts to overheat
That belongs in the sex issues thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
If yours has electric fans, then no fan clutch.
One electric and one normal belt driven (with a clutch) fan.




Since you just replaced the radiator, I also say to make sure ALL the air is bled out of the system. I also doubt that water pump impeller blades are so corroded that coolant doesn't flow well. I'd check the thermostat too, but remember about air in the system. Yes, radiator or coolant tank cap must be OK too.
Replaced the CAPS not the radiator or the expansion tank. I replaced the thermostat a while back and she has been running fine until just a couple of weeks ago.




That belongs in the sex issues thread.
;)

Check the thermostat. Infrared cameras work great to detect cooling problems.

Vic
Replaced that a few months back, I guess it's possible it's failed but it's been working fine with the exception of sitting for 10+ min in traffic.
 

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Were you saying you replaced the caps after the overheating issue? There is a way to check, go for a drive and get up to operating temp. Get back home open the hood keep it running and see if the electrical fan is cycling on and off. Make sure the mechanical fan with the non-thermal clutch is cycling from 1 to 1 when at idle, to almost free spinning when the engine is at highway speed rpms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Aren't the caps suppose to hold a certain psi? If it was cheap maybe you got what you paid for? You know how hard it is to get all the air out of the coolant system, have you drained it recently?
Got the caps from Advanced Auto, the radiator cap is just a dummy cap the expansion tank has the pressure cap. Couldn't tell you about the quality...
 

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-How to Detect a Faulty Fan Clutch
-Fan spins excessively when engine is stopped. (if I spin my fan it moves about 1/4-1/2 turn)
-Poor A/C performance at idle or low vehicle speeds.
-Fan speed does not increase when engine is hot. (thermal) not ours
-Fan speed does not increase until engine is excessively hot. (thermal) not ours
-Fan blade tip moves more than 1/4” front to back.
-Fan turns roughly or does not turn at all.
-Excessive fan noise at all speeds due to failed bearing.
-Vibration that increases with engine speed.
 

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if I turn the heater on full blast the temp drops
If your problem was inadequate coolant flow (i.e., bad water pump), turning on the heater wouldn't help.

So, it doesn't sound like you have a bad water pump.
 

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Usually if your vehicle overheats at idle and slow speeds but is fine at highway speeds, it is the fan clutch that is the culprit. At highways speeds, enough air is forced through the radiator and condenser cores to cool the coolant. This is not the case at slow speeds or idle, when a fan is needed to pull (or push, depending on setup) air through the cores. One recommendation I would make is that if you replace the fan clutch, stick with genuine Nissan. We've had a number of faulty aftermarket fan clutches occur on R51's at the Pathfinder site I moderate.
 

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I have had a overheating issue that just popped up. If I am sitting in traffic for more than 10 min or so the old girl starts to overheat. I did a quick inspection and everything seems to be OK, no leaks, both fans run etc. I replaced the radiator and expansion tanks caps because it was quick and cheap.
As soon as I start to move again or if I turn the heater on full blast the temp drops, so after a little searching around it appears to be a problem with either the fan clutch or water pump.
So before I drop between $50-100 on a clutch or start tearing the front down to get to the pump does anyone have any other suggestions that I could investigate? Also, is there a way to tell if the fan clutch or water pump is bad other than the overheating issue?
Thanks!
-How to Detect a Faulty Fan Clutch
-Fan spins excessively when engine is stopped. (if I spin my fan it moves about 1/4-1/2 turn)
-Poor A/C performance at idle or low vehicle speeds.
-Fan speed does not increase when engine is hot. (thermal) not ours
-Fan speed does not increase until engine is excessively hot. (thermal) not ours
-Fan blade tip moves more than 1/4” front to back.
-Fan turns roughly or does not turn at all.
-Excessive fan noise at all speeds due to failed bearing.
-Vibration that increases with engine speed.
Usually if your vehicle overheats at idle and slow speeds but is fine at highway speeds, it is the fan clutch that is the culprit. At highways speeds, enough air is forced through the radiator and condenser cores to cool the coolant. This is not the case at slow speeds or idle, when a fan is needed to pull (or push, depending on setup) air through the cores. One recommendation I would make is that if you replace the fan clutch, stick with genuine Nissan. We've had a number of faulty aftermarket fan clutches occur on R51's at the Pathfinder site I moderate.

Bump from the grave for an answer .. please

My Xterra just started doing this too. Literally all the same symptoms and back story. Radiator/ thermostat/ hoses swapped less than a year ago. No leaks. 90% sure it’s not air in the system. Been burned extensively.

Only happens at idle, low speeds, AC running.

Temp gauge drops when on freeway or cranking heater in instead. Doesn’t help ambient temps in Vegas are now topping 110*
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Bump from the grave for an answer .. please

My Xterra just started doing this too. Literally all the same symptoms and back story. Radiator/ thermostat/ hoses swapped less than a year ago. No leaks. 90% sure it’s not air in the system. Been burned extensively.

Only happens at idle, low speeds, AC running.

Temp gauge drops when on freeway or cranking heater in instead. Doesn’t help ambient temps in Vegas are now topping 110*
I ended up replacing the radiator and fan clutch. Do yourself a favor though and buy a genuine Nissan fan clutch. I bought an aftermarket one and it made the truck sound like a semi and killed my gas mileage. For the radiator I got a Denso (same brand as OEM) from Amazon.
Hope you can figure it out.
 

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My fan clutch assembly came apart! Fan blade went in to my aluminum radiator. Can’t figure out why it failed. Radiator was ok, pressure checked.
Running electric fans now.
 

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My fan clutch assembly came apart! Fan blade went in to my aluminum radiator. Can’t figure out why it failed. Radiator was ok, pressure checked.

Running electric fans now.


Jesus.

Gonna give another burping a shot. If that doesn’t cut it, going with the oem fan clutch.

Got a quote from my local Nissan dealer just for kicks .. $1028.00

Ha.
 

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Jesus.

Gonna give another burping a shot. If that doesn’t cut it, going with the oem fan clutch.

Got a quote from my local Nissan dealer just for kicks .. $1028.00

Ha.
Holy Smokes!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·

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I've replaced the fan clutch twice on my 1998 Frontier (4-cylinder, 231K miles). The second time I got the fan clutch free as it was lifetime warrantied. Yes running hot/poor AC performance in traffic or idle can be due to fan clutch. Here in Arizona I typically have to replace these like every 6 years due to heat. I use a lengthened (by me) 10mm combination wrench for the R&R, saves my hands. I've replaced the radiator once (leak at the crimp) and the fan blade once each. The water pump was replaced once due to leaking too.

My 2004 4-cylinder Frontier still has its original radiator and fan clutch, but I've replaced its water pump which had a small leak.
 

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Bump from the grave for an answer .. please

My Xterra just started doing this too. Literally all the same symptoms and back story. Radiator/ thermostat/ hoses swapped less than a year ago. No leaks. 90% sure it’s not air in the system. Been burned extensively.

Only happens at idle, low speeds, AC running.

Temp gauge drops when on freeway or cranking heater in instead. Doesn’t help ambient temps in Vegas are now topping 110*
Make sure your electric fan is working when your A/C is on. Otherwise, it sounds like your fan clutch isn't engaging and not allowing the mechanical fan to operate properly.
 
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