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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I just want to know what did you guys do after upgrading to new speakers and a 4 channel amp? Planning to install 4 new coaxial speakers but Im not sure what to do about the tweeters. By the way I have a 16 Pro4X CC with RF/Navi System. I want to retain the HU and go with new amp and new speakers.

Here are some options for tweeters assuming 4 new coaxial door speakers, and 4 channel amp spliced to factory wiring:

Front Dash Tweeters (These have a dedicated channel from the factory amp)

1. Disconnect
2. Leave them running on factory amp. Will this make them obnoxious since amp will have more available power without the door speakers?
3. Bypass the amp using jumper wires in the plug to connect them to the factory HU signal. Get rid of amp
4. Open to suggestions


Rear Door Tweeters ( These are connected in a parallel config with rear door)

1. Disconnect
2. Let them received amplified signal coming from the new rear speakers. Will this blow them up or make them loud?
3. Open to suggestions


My goals: Achieve better quality sound at louder volume. Dont care for a sub for now so I care less if I eliminate the factory amp and factory sub. When I feel I need one I will have a dedicated mono amp to a new aftermarket sub. Only reason I dont do it now is because I have a kicker 12" laying around and this one wont fit anywhere without eliminated the storage box under the rear seat.


My priorities:

#1 Integrate factory tweeters without messing up the sound
#2 Letting go of the tweeters
#3 Go with component speakers and routing additional wire.

Let me know what you guys think and I'm also open to suggestions regarding anything, speakers, amp output, ect
 

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Doesnt the factory tweeter location aims towards the windshield? I installed my focal tweets in the side panel next to the factory location.The only down side is if I ever sell my truck I need to go find replacement panels because aint no way in hell anyone but myself will get ahold of my krx2 components....
 

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My goals: Achieve better quality sound at louder volume. Dont care for a sub for now so I care less if I eliminate the factory amp and factory sub. When I feel I need one I will have a dedicated mono amp to a new aftermarket sub. Only reason I dont do it now is because I have a kicker 12" laying around and this one wont fit anywhere without eliminated the storage box under the rear seat.


My priorities:
#1 Integrate factory tweeters without messing up the sound
#2 Letting go of the tweeters
#3 Go with component speakers and routing additional wire.

Let me know what you guys think and I'm also open to suggestions regarding anything, speakers, amp output, ect
I already replied to all of your PMs yesterday, but I'll also reply here for anyone who sees this thread in the future:

SHORT VERSION ANSWER to your priorities list:

#1 It will mess up the sound.
#2 Yes, let them go.
#3 Best option, replace the OEM component setup with an aftermarket component setup, it just makes sense.


SLIGHTLY LONGER VERSION ANSWER:
If you're removing the factory amp and replacing it with an aftermarket 4-channel amp, then ideally you'd want to replace all of the speakers as well. Since the "RF" system (not really "RF" components) is already a component setup, you should take advantage of the fact that you're vehicle is already compatible with components speakers.

And just to repeat the last thing I said in the PM - don't expect the sound quality to improve much if you keep the OEM head unit. The OEM head unit (even the "RF" head unit that's really a Panasonic) is fine if you keep everything stock, but is bad for anyone who wants a true upgrade. With an aftermarket amp and speaker swap it may get louder, but it won't sound much better.
 

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I pulled mine out. Sounds fine w/o
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thats what I'm going to do. For now just component speaker and get rid of the factory amp.

Now I came across another peculiar thing about my truck..... while everyone else has it available I just cant find a bypass harness for my factory amp. Anybody knows where can I get such harness that plugs right into my amp connector? I thought I heard about someone saying that there is one that you connect to the harness under the passenger seat and it even comes with RCA????? Not expecting that but at least something close that would give me wires to hookup the LOC to without cutting factory harness
 

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Still using the factory tweeters with an aftermarket head unit, sub amp and door speakers - and like them just fine.

They're sensitive - don't require much power to play loud - and they handle considerably more power than the factory head unit could ever manage.

They're the only stock audio item I'm still using - don't have any plans to replace them.

Incidentally, that beneath-the-windshield mounting location is just about perfect - The windshield glass is an excellent reflector of high frequencies, and its shape does a good job of dispersing sound throughout the upper part of the cab.
 

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Still using the factory tweeters with an aftermarket head unit, sub amp and door speakers - and like them just fine.

They're sensitive - don't require much power to play loud - and they handle considerably more power than the factory head unit could ever manage.

They're the only stock audio item I'm still using - don't have any plans to replace them.

Incidentally, that beneath-the-windshield mounting location is just about perfect - The windshield glass is an excellent reflector of high frequencies, and its shape does a good job of dispersing sound throughout the upper part of the cab.
I wouldn't be surprised if the OEM RF speakers sound better with just a head unit change, the head unit is the weakest part of the factory audio - RF or not.

However the tweeter locations in the dash aren't that great for imaging. They're in a good spot compared to low in the doors (like a coaxial) but the fact that they aim up into the windshield is what kills the directional imaging. If the dash tweeters were aimed towards the cabin (instead of the windshield) you'd get a distinct left-right separation, especially with songs that have sounds that move from side to side. With the tweeters aimed up at the windshield, they left-right separation disappears since the highs hit the windshield and bounce into each other.

If you want to hear what I'm talking about, one day try playing "Still Sane" by Lorde. With the stock tweeters aimed at the windshield, you'll hear her voice from the left side only... then suddenly it'll be coming from the right side. However, if the tweeters were aimed diagonal into the cabin, you'd hear her voice start from the left, distinctly travel slowly across the dashboard, then to the right with such clarity that you could literally follow her voice with your finger and you'll span the entire dashboard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
My buddy is trying to convince me to get an aftermarket HU. I just have so much to loose, Navi, Backup camera, integrated BT, steering wheel controls, ect. I know there is probably interface harnesses out there by the time I enable all those features it would end up being a project way more expensive than im planning. All i want is a little better audio I dont need professional or competition level
 

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My buddy is trying to convince me to get an aftermarket HU. I just have so much to loose, Navi, Backup camera, integrated BT, steering wheel controls, ect. I know there is probably interface harnesses out there by the time I enable all those features it would end up being a project way more expensive than im planning. All i want is a little better audio I dont need professional or competition level
So just swap the speakers out and call it a day
 

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Food for thought.

I was debating keeping my Headunit ( Display Audio) in my 2018 Frontier Crew Cab but I grew tired of the lack of sound separation like Raine mentioned.

Granted I did not have Navi and my New head unit doesn't ( I find I don't need it much). BUT the sound quality is miles above the OEM unit. I was also originally going to just replace the speakers and add a small sub. I'm glad I didn't. In your case a new head unit with Navi could be pricey so I get that reluctance.

I put in a JVC KW-V830BT and while I was waiting for my speakers to arrive I've been using the stock speakers for about 2 weeks. They sound amazing now compared to the day I rolled off the Lot. They are all rated at 20w rms (40max) and with the Hu's 22wrms they actually are really good. I like them so much I am debating swapping out my fronts. ( I still will as I just installed a 5ch amp)

Also I discovered 2016-2018 audio controls/wiring are roughly the same. I can't find a 2018 FSM but I've been using the 2016 and for the most part the wiring is correct. A few things with the microphone aren't the same from 2016 and my 2018 microphone setup so I ditched trying to get that working and just used the mic that came with the JVC.

The Bluetooth from 2016-on no longer uses a separate module...it's built in to the OEM head units so you don't need that jumper plug.

I plan to post a writeup once I finish. Now just waiting for my sub enclosure to arrive.


J
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks you very much raine and JRobb very helpful inputs. I will be considering the HU swap but first I'm cooking some other idea that apparently has never been attempted on our truck and I believe its worth a shot, let me know what you guys think.

This is where I stand so far. I was reading in another post about someone who actually took his truck with RF w/ Navi to a stereo shop and they tested the HU's output and there were impressed with the results. Here is the link:
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f24/2013-pro-4x-rockford-system-upgrades-96425/

What I'm trying to figure out now is what are the output voltage of this Rockford w/Navi's head unit. What I'm digging into is the possibility of using the high level inputs plugs on the aftermarket amp, given that my RF signal is clean enough and the pre amp output is between 4v-11v (RCA output is up to 4v). Otherwise just go with an LC6i Converter. What I wonder if his HU was tested pre or post amp. I want to assume its pre amp. I'm also wondering if he hooked up the LC6i pre or post amp.

So far I intend to go with a Planet Audio 1200W 4- channel amp Class A/B. However still looking into speakers so suggestions are appreciated :)
 

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Food for thought.

I was debating keeping my Headunit ( Display Audio) in my 2018 Frontier Crew Cab but I grew tired of the lack of sound separation like Raine mentioned.

Granted I did not have Navi and my New head unit doesn't ( I find I don't need it much). BUT the sound quality is miles above the OEM unit. I was also originally going to just replace the speakers and add a small sub. I'm glad I didn't. In your case a new head unit with Navi could be pricey so I get that reluctance.

I put in a JVC KW-V830BT and while I was waiting for my speakers to arrive I've been using the stock speakers for about 2 weeks. They sound amazing now compared to the day I rolled off the Lot. They are all rated at 20w rms (40max) and with the Hu's 22wrms they actually are really good. I like them so much I am debating swapping out my fronts. ( I still will as I just installed a 5ch amp)

Also I discovered 2016-2018 audio controls/wiring are roughly the same. I can't find a 2018 FSM but I've been using the 2016 and for the most part the wiring is correct. A few things with the microphone aren't the same from 2016 and my 2018 microphone setup so I ditched trying to get that working and just used the mic that came with the JVC.

The Bluetooth from 2016-on no longer uses a separate module...it's built in to the OEM head units so you don't need that jumper plug.

I plan to post a writeup once I finish. Now just waiting for my sub enclosure to arrive.


J
FYI The lack of separation is due to the dash speaker angle, not the head unit.

Yep - Changing the head unit alone will make the factory audio sound better (even with stock speakers) because the factory head units are all limited range. I tell people this all the time whenever someone wants to upgrade - it all starts from the source. ::wink::
 

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FYI The lack of separation is due to the dash speaker angle, not the head unit.

Yep - Changing the head unit alone will make the factory audio sound better (even with stock speakers) because the factory head units are all limited range. I tell people this all the time whenever someone wants to upgrade - it all starts from the source. ::wink::
It's like folks are programmed to not believe this. lol

House analogy:
Leaky roof is akin to poor sound quality. But leaky roof IS due to bad foundation IE OEM head unit .
~ Don't fix leaky roof w/o fixing bad foundation FIRST.
 

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It's like folks are programmed to not believe this. lol
I think it's more like they don't want to accept the fact that upgrading costs money ::grin::

I'm sure you know that it doesn't matter if you put $50 speakers or $5000 speakers in... the end result is only as good as the signal being fed to them by the head unit.
 
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