[Thepeelsessions]

Hey all, I just got into a 2017 SV CC. I haven't had an "aftermarket" system since my '98 Frontier KC, so it's been a few years. I've always gone completely aftermarket. I still have my old Alpine 4 channel amp and would like to get something going. I'd like to use the stock HU this time around. It's clean and I don't want to go all in on a new unit right now. I'd also like to keep the stock speakers. I think they sound pretty good for stock. So, my questions for all of you are:

1. Can the stock speakers handle being powered off the amp if I don't max out the gain on the amp? Or should i keep them on the HU?
2. If I tap the sub into the rear speaker line to control it from the HU, do I need a line out converter to do so?
3. Would it be better to power the sub from the amp and take time to adjust the output perfectly instead of tapping into the rears?
4. Is anyone using JL's 8" microsub, and if so, where do you have it located?

I've always bridged the sub between two channels and doubled up my fronts and rears on the two remaining channels. Also, I'm not a huge super bass guy. I listen to a little bit of everything, but I like clean, crisp highs and mids, with the bass evened out and not over powering.

Thanks guys!

 

[shift_RUSH]

If you're happy w/ the the OEM system's sound, then don't touch a thing.
If you wish to enhance the sound quality, then a new head unit will be the best place to start.

JMO: I rated my '15 SV's OEM as OK. Not bad and not good.
YMMV

 

[raine]

Hey all, I just got into a 2017 SV CC. I haven't had an "aftermarket" system since my '98 Frontier KC, so it's been a few years. I've always gone completely aftermarket. I still have my old Alpine 4 channel amp and would like to get something going. I'd like to use the stock HU this time around. It's clean and I don't want to go all in on a new unit right now. I'd also like to keep the stock speakers. I think they sound pretty good for stock. So, my questions for all of you are:

1. Can the stock speakers handle being powered off the amp if I don't max out the gain on the amp? Or should i keep them on the HU?
2. If I tap the sub into the rear speaker line to control it from the HU, do I need a line out converter to do so?
3. Would it be better to power the sub from the amp and take time to adjust the output perfectly instead of tapping into the rears?
4. Is anyone using JL's 8" microsub, and if so, where do you have it located?

I've always bridged the sub between two channels and doubled up my fronts and rears on the two remaining channels. Also, I'm not a huge super bass guy. I listen to a little bit of everything, but I like clean, crisp highs and mids, with the bass evened out and not over powering.

Thanks guys!

1. Nope, stock speakers are rated at 3-watts each. Adding an amp to power the stock speakers is pointless.

2. Not clear what you mean here.

3. Yes.

4. I had one in a different vehicle (8W3v3), it'll probably fit under the rear-right seat bottom if you remove the cargo bin.

If you like how the stock system sounds you're probably be better off using the Alpine amp in bridged mode to power just the sub; for this you will need a line-level converter if your Alpine amp doesn't have speaker-level inputs.

 

[4x4Daddy]

First off I'd listen to Raine I had my set up pretty goofed up on my 2012 and he helped me sort it out. Not sure if the newer models are set up the same, but my 2012 sounded like caca after replacing the head unit, then worse when I replaced the speakers. Finally disconnected the dash speakers and it sounds much better. lol


That said I did install a powered sub under the right rear bench. The unit I used is 15x11x3 so you should be OK. I wouldn't go any bigger however or you'll start to see it poking out from under the seat. I went with a cheap Rockville 10" and I am happy with it. It's not going to rattle your rear view mirror loose but it adds some bass where there was none.

It also accepts speaker level inputs and would have easily fit under the drivers seat and probably under the passenger seat with some work as most subs in that category would. In retrospect I might have spent a few more bucks and got the Kenwood or Pioneer unit. In any event it will be cheaper and easier that the JL mini sub with a converter. You'll also be able to use your amp to power your door speakers if you decide to do a full system upgrade down the line.

 

[rpcraft]

The answer to # 2 and 3 essentially is use a line out adapter on your front speaker wires for a subwoofer line (if that is what you are wanting). I have long suspected the rear speaker signal is weaker on the SV CC setup (or the speaker is just in a really crappy spot). I have not bothered to really measure it but I am sure you could use a test meter to check. I just have not because I'm just going to replace the Head unit and avoid using the factory speaker wiring.

#4. Personally, I would not go with anything less than a 10 for subwoofer but I have never tried out the 8's to be fair and JL does have some great small enclosure setups so YMMV.

Like 4X4Daddy said Raine gives out some great advice so you can't go wrong with anything he advises.

 

[raine]

Personally, I would not go with anything less than a 10 for subwoofer but I have never tried out the 8's to be fair and JL does have some great small enclosure setups so YMMV.

You'd be surprised, I've heard/felt 10" level bass coming from a 6.5" before... it's all in the proper enclosure, and all of the JL enclosed subs I've heard/tried are designed correctly.

 

[Thepeelsessions]

Thanks for all the input! I actually have a JL 10W1V2-4 that I've had for years. I used it in both my '95 and '98 king cabs. I just found a used custom made under seat box that came out of an '05 CC on eBay for a killer price. It's got enough mounting depth and air space for my sub. Thankfully it's local, so I'm picking it up tomorrow.

So if I use an LOC tapped into the fronts to tie in my amp, will I lose any of the front sound quality? Also, the HU volume knob will adjust the volume for the speakers AND sub, and the sub level will have to be adjusted on the amp, correct?

Like I said, I've done a lot of aftermarket setups which are a breeze with the simple systems I've used. But I've never integrated stock with after market. Thanks again for the tips on this.

 

[raine]

Thanks for all the input! I actually have a JL 10W1V2-4 that I've had for years. I used it in both my '95 and '98 king cabs. I just found a used custom made under seat box that came out of an '05 CC on eBay for a killer price. It's got enough mounting depth and air space for my sub. Thankfully it's local, so I'm picking it up tomorrow.

So if I use an LOC tapped into the fronts to tie in my amp, will I lose any of the front sound quality? And is there any possible way to control the sub volume with the main volume control, or will I need a sperate knob for that (boy, I hope not)? I know the factory HU doesn't have outputs, so I'm seeing this as hard to get around.

Like I said, I've done a lot of aftermarket setups which are a breeze with the simple systems I've used. But I've never integrated stock with after market. Thanks again for the tips on this.

Well the problem here is that you're choosing to keep the OEM head unit, which is your source, and it's not a good one. So two things to know if you tap an LOC into the speaker outputs (front or rear, doesn't matter it's the same signal):

1. Don't worry about losing any sound quality after adding an LOC... not with the OEM head unit and speakers.

2. You won't be getting as much bass as you'd expect, because as you raise the volume on the OEM head unit, it will start to attenuate the highest and lowest frequencies - and it does this to keep from blowing the OEM 3-watt 2-ohm speakers. So you might get high bass (120-100Hz) but once you turn the volume higher it's cutting the low frequencies out.

I know all of the above through experience, because when I tried what you're thinking of doing, I needed to add in an Epicenter just to get some low end. This is part of the reason why I ended up going with a full audio upgrade, and the first thing on my list... was a new head unit.

 

[Thepeelsessions]

Thanks for all the input! I actually have a JL 10W1V2-4 that I've had for years. I used it in both my '95 and '98 king cabs. I just found a used custom made under seat box that came out of an '05 CC on eBay for a killer price. It's got enough mounting depth and air space for my sub. Thankfully it's local, so I'm picking it up tomorrow.

So if I use an LOC tapped into the fronts to tie in my amp, will I lose any of the front sound quality? And is there any possible way to control the sub volume with the main volume control, or will I need a sperate knob for that (boy, I hope not)? I know the factory HU doesn't have outputs, so I'm seeing this as hard to get around.

Like I said, I've done a lot of aftermarket setups which are a breeze with the simple systems I've used. But I've never integrated stock with after market. Thanks again for the tips on this.

Well the problem here is that you're choosing to keep the OEM head unit, which is your source, and it's not a good one. So two things to know if you tap an LOC into the speaker outputs (front or rear, doesn't matter it's the same signal):

1. Don't worry about losing any sound quality after adding an LOC... not with the OEM head unit and speakers.

2. You won't be getting as much bass as you'd expect, because as you raise the volume on the OEM head unit, it will start to attenuate the highest and lowest frequencies - and it does this to keep from blowing the OEM 3-watt 2-ohm speakers. So you might get high bass (120-100Hz) but once you turn the volume higher it's cutting the low frequencies out.

I know all of the above through experience, because when I tried what you're thinking of doing, I needed to add in an Epicenter just to get some low end. This is part of the reason why I ended up going with a full audio upgrade, and the first thing on my list... was a new head unit.

Thanks Raine. So I wouldn't be getting the desired 60-80Hz bass when I crank the volume with an LOC? Dang, that's a drag. What is an epicenter? Is it similar to an LC2i?

 

[raine]

Thanks Raine. So I wouldn't be getting the desired 60-80Hz bass when I crank the volume with an LOC? Dang, that's a drag. What is an epicenter? Is it similar to an LC2i?

No. The Epicenter is a bass restoration processor. LC2i has "Accubass", which is different from what the Epicenter does.

The Epicenter - AudioControl