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I negotiated a great 1400 dollar 10 year bumper to bumper 100K mile no deductible and transferable warranty on my 19 P4X. However, on my 19 loaded BMW X3 they wanted over 5K to extend it just 3 more years. That car has been zero free problems with low mileage so I told them no thank you.
 

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I negotiated a great 1400 dollar 10 year bumper to bumper 100K mile no deductible and transferable warranty.
But it's not really 10yr/100K (whichever comes first) .

You must subtract out the original factory warranty to see what you really bought because those warranties run together. Your power train, where the real money is, has factory 5yr/60K, so you only get 5yr/40K additional coverage for your $1,400 plus 7yr/64K for the rest of the vehicle.

If you drive 15K per year, you will reach 100K in 6 years 8 months, when the warranties end. In that case the extra warranty is only good for 20 months. (5yr vs 6yr 8mo)

If you buy a 10yr/100K warranty on a used car where the factory coverage has ended, you actually get 10yr/100K coverage. But with a new car, you are partly buying double coverage which does you no good. But the lower price reflects that too.
 

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Why do you still think this is limited to or even focused power train? Also, some dealers sell warranty plans that are not restricted to a dealer network.

The led lights cost more than driveline repairs were back in the day... when the case being made used to be more relevant. It's partially why insurance cost more, takes less to total one now than it used to.

Yet, it is still not the best choice in all cases for everyone and coverages vary. A lot.
 

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^^^this, really, I'm way more worried about the new electronics failing, Theres already a half-dozen guys on here with brand new 2023's that have had their trucks just shut down electronically while driving down the road, or media screen failures, none of which the dealers have figured out yet.
 

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^^^this, really, I'm way more worried about the new electronics failing, Theres already a half-dozen guys on here with brand new 2023's that have had their trucks just shut down electronically while driving down the road, or media screen failures, none of which the dealers have figured out yet.
That applies to most higher trim modern cars.
Stick to knobs, buttons and dials (like my '19)
 

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All the modern addons is why I went with the generation 2. I had a dealer warranty on my Mustang that I had to practically bring to the dealer on fire, for them to not want to charge a "diagnosis fee", usually $150 dollars. And this was with a "platinum" warranty, the highest level off coverage. A few service tech's would waive the fee from time to time. I bought the warranty at time of purchase because of the potential problems that would not be covered under the remaining powertrain warranty. There was one repair that was covered under the powertrain warranty (water pump) and another that had to do with a tapping noise at startup (TSB bulletin). This one they never really did fix, but at least I had it documented that the issue was to have been addressed should it become a problem, and it never did. I bought the car used with around 15,000 miles on it hence the additional warranty coverage. Really only used the warranty to repair 2 things, both HVAC actuator door failures. On the repair paperwork they charged the warranty company just under $200 per repair. All that, for a initial cost of around $1,300 added to the cost at time of purchase. I'm sure if I did not have the warranty that I always had to almost prove I had that the cost per repair would have been double. Once the warranty had run it's course, and despite my love of the car it was time to move on as the dealership experience spoiled my taste for the brand. Extended warranties are just insurance policies anyway and insurance companies main jobs are threefold.

1. Sell the customer the policy
2. Deny any if not all of the claims made on such policies if at all possible.
3. Show a profit for the shareholders.

We are a nation made to be afraid of everything and the answer to this is to be "insured" against it. Find an honest mechanic if you can't fix it yourself. They can be found at dealerships or independent shops
 

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Techs don't decide warranty claims, so that does make them feel sketchy.
Techs don’t decide but they can create issues based on their flawed opinion and good luck trying to get it corrected. Same as a service writer, I much prefer an old school mechanic who can narrow a problem down until they definitively came up with the actual cause.
Without a scanner most “techs” can’t find the cause to many failures. The term tech is like a garbage man became a sanitation engineer. It’s to make them feel elevated. Pay me what I’m worth and I do not care about a title. They said give the kids a trophy even when they lost, here’s the end results.

Clint
 

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As mentioned, it's all about how much the warranty is and what is covered. When I bought my '11 pro-4x it was a lease return with only the 5/60 powertrain warranty left. I was offered an extended powertrain warranty for I think it was $1200, it was going to add minimal to my monthly payment (20 or 30 dollars a month) The warranty was going to take me to 100k miles which is 40K more miles than the powertrain warranty. I figured a rear locker, a transfer case, auto transmission or engine repair was well over $1200 and it was worth it to me. At 66k miles, my rear locker went out and all I was out was the $100 (or $150?) deductible on a $4400 part.... I won that one. Had the warranty been more or covered fewer miles, I wouldn't have got it.

Similar situation with the used Honda Pilot my for my wife. I forget the cost, but again, it was going to take us past 100k miles, added minimal to the payments. I did sit with her in the finance office and turned down many $$$ worth of add ons, accessories and "Service packages" Knowing as the OP mentioned, that's where they were making their money.

A blanket statement like "don't buy an extended warranty" isn't 100% accurate. It is a gamble, one just needs to weigh the risk before rolling the dice.
 

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But it's not really 10yr/100K (whichever comes first) .

You must subtract out the original factory warranty to see what you really bought because those warranties run together. Your power train, where the real money is, has factory 5yr/60K, so you only get 5yr/40K additional coverage for your $1,400 plus 7yr/64K for the rest of the vehicle.

If you drive 15K per year, you will reach 100K in 6 years 8 months, when the warranties end. In that case the extra warranty is only good for 20 months. (5yr vs 6yr 8mo)

If you buy a 10yr/100K warranty on a used car where the factory coverage has ended, you actually get 10yr/100K coverage. But with a new car, you are partly buying double coverage which does you no good. But the lower price reflects that too.
Well, I've only got 18K miles on it. It will definitely be 10 years B4 the warranty expires. I'm pretty sure if I sell before then I'll recover most of that warranty because the buyer will be motivated knowing its still has bumper to bumper. I generally have to replacae head units with all my nissan's. A new RF head unit will like cost that much. Not really worried about it though. Considering how things are now I feel pretty good about my 2019 purchase. That loaded P4X cost 38K out the door ncluding tax, warranty extension everything. Like I said, it will be easy to sell this truck if that warranty is still in effect being its fully transferable. Allot of people have been paying pretty steep addendums for their 22 Pro 4 X's. Now if I had done something stupid like that I'd be feeling pretty horrible.
 

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Extended warranties require meticulous maintenance and on schedule. Or they can refuse your claim based on a muck up. Read the fine print. Its a gamble. Not for me.
My wife and I have had quite a few extended warranties on our cars and trucks. I have never had coverage challenged or denied due to lack of scheduled maintenance or service. In fact, I don't ever recall being asked for proof of any services. I keep records of all the service I do myself and dealer services, but I don't remember ever being asked to provide any of it. Unless the failure is due to an obvious lack of required service it is probably not going to be challenged. I had a lot of repairs done on my 2007 Frontier both under the factory and extended warranties. None of them had any relationship to scheduled maintenance services. Also, going through the required maintenance schedule for my 2022 Frontier the required service requirements are not really that exhaustive or extensive.
 

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You may not have, but it happens. And why would you risk it by not following a proper maintenance schedule to be safe?

If your engine blows and were supposed to change it every 5000 miles with 5w30 and you do it every 8000 miles with 0w-20. You don't think that would warrant an investigation?

Look at HyunKia's burning oil engines. Not taking accountability and deeming it normal. Even with their mess up, they are refusing warranty work. Just food for thought. Otherwise carry on.
 

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I've bought 2 Nissan extended warranties from Santa Rosa a lot cheaper than my dealer wanted.
Did they require you have the vehicles inspected first?

Clint
 

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From 0-10000 or 10 months, the Genuine Nissan warranty does NOT require an inspection. I am not sure afterwards, but probably not, since its still under factory warranty.

I know RAM does require an inspection after 3/36. It has to go thru a "used vehicle inspection", and the dealer has to sign off onit.
 
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