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While you're at it, make sure your motor, transmission, and exhaust mounts/bushings are all in good condition. Avoid any aftermarket parts that aren't custom made here in the USA. Anything generic listed on Ebay or similar sites are all "rebranded" Chinese parts. As with all products, you'll have some that may last, but you're more than likely to have fitment issues or quality issues down the line compared to something of much higher caliber and cost.
 
een there, done that. Still have 1 cracked one sitting on the floor in the garage.

I did a full custom exhaust this summer (headers, cats, muffler, etc) - although it's a bit patchy (I used a combination of weld-in parts and factory pipes I had left), I like it so far, but time will tell if the headers hold up (I got the cheap ones...)

Have you tried welding the cracks? Find a fab shop and get someone who knows about metals to weld the cracks? I've heard of that working on the V8 4Runner headers - they develop a small crack as well. I'll probably try that on my 4Runner since it's starting to have an exhaust "tick" too...
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
I’ll keep that in mind. Usually I can tell if it’s a company selling poor quality parts. I’m all about getting a good deal. But not when it’s junk.
While you're at it, make sure your motor, transmission, and exhaust mounts/bushings are all in good condition. Avoid any aftermarket parts that aren't custom made here in the USA. Anything generic listed on Ebay or similar sites are all "rebranded" Chinese parts. As with all products, you'll have some that may last, but you're more than likely to have fitment issues or quality issues down the line compared to something of much
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
een there, done that. Still have 1 cracked one sitting on the floor in the garage.

I did a full custom exhaust this summer (headers, cats, muffler, etc) - although it's a bit patchy (I used a combination of weld-in parts and factory pipes I had left), I like it so far, but time will tell if the headers hold up (I got the cheap ones...)

Have you tried welding the cracks? Find a fab shop and get someone who knows about metals to weld the cracks? I've heard of that working on the V8 4Runner headers - they develop a small crack as well. I'll probably try that on my 4Runner since it's starting to have an exhaust "tick" too...
I purchased the exhaust manifolds from O'Reilly's. They were still under warranty. No reason to take them to get welded. I put the new ones on a few days ago. However I think the drivers side may have cracked again. When I put my hand on the hood you can feel a difference of temperature between the passengers and drivers side. Another sign is when it feels like I'm literally cooking in the drivers seat on longer drives (Balls Soup).

I'm really leaning to motor mounts are the culprit. I will pull the heat shields when I have a chance next weekend and see if it's cracked again. I'll also inspect Motor and Transmission mounts.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
UPDATE

The exhaust manifolds I put on 5ish months ago are cracked again. Every month it get louder. My guess is cracked in the exact same spot as the last 2 I've removed. I'll take pictures once I remove the heat shields to inspect them.

I've decided to bite the bullet and get Doug Thorley headers. I see that they offer Long or Short headers. What is the difference between the 2? Also, should I stick with stock exhaust or get it all re-done?
 
Discussion starter · #26 · (Edited)
It's looking like Short Headers will bolt right up. If I get the Long Headers I will have to eliminate the first set of CAT's and add check engine light eliminators on each side.

I was hoping to add Short headers but it seems like everyone is out and is only listing Long headers. Does anyone know where I can find Shorty's? I'm trying to do the work myself and not have to go to an exhaust shop. I know how to put them on. I've put on exhaust manifolds twice already this year.
 
Discussion starter · #27 · (Edited)
I called AC (4x4parts) and they said that Long headers will bolt directly on. It takes the place of the exhaust manifold and the first set of CAT's. The only other thing I need to order is the Check Engine Light Eliminator to cancel out the codes that will pop up. They have the best price compared to all the other sites also. Works for me!!!

I'll take some pictures when I install the new headers.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Doug Thorley Headers have been installed!!!!!

It took me forever (14 hours). I kept running in to minor issues.

Some things to be aware of when installing.

Use all new studs and nuts. I reused a few stock ones and had no way to get a ratchet in. Also I couldn't get a torque wrench in to tighten the nuts to factory spec. I followed the tightening sequence and went off feel hoping I got everything tight enough. Some spots I had to use an open end wrench to slowly crank down the nut. Specifically the upper nut closest to the firewall drivers side. I will check the nuts in a week to see if any are loose. I have a noise right now that I think may be an exhaust tick. It goes away when I increase the RMS a bit making me think it's not lifters.

Passengers side primary O2 sensor is short. Bung hole is farther away from the harness. I was able to unhook the harness and stretch it just enough to get connected. I will fix that soon. Will splicing and extending the wires effect the signal? Another option is I think I can just get another drivers side primary O2 sensor. That side has longer wiring. Will that work?

Attaching the the bolts provided in the kit to the remaining exhaust can be a little challenging to tighten up.

Heat Shield on passenger side protecting the tubing may rub on headers. Solution bend the metal out of the way.

O2 sensors have an adaptor to fit the stock bung holes. It took me a bit to figure out that I can take them off.

I forgot to put one the Check Engine Light Eliminator at the secondary O2 bung hole. I had already bolted everything back up. So far I have no Check Engine Light/Codes. My truck had 4 Catalytic Converters for a 3.3V6. Does everyone else have the same thing? Is the Check Engine Light Eliminators needed when I leave the 2nd set of Catalytic converter? Or is is for when you only remove all Catalytic Converters.


Over all I'm happy with the Headers(y)(y). Sounds good and no more heat transferring to my floorpan then moving to my seat. Long trips I'd be cooking. NUTS SOUP!!! Chaffed really bad when the drive was over 🤣
 
oil is leaking pass the valve stem seal and is causing the exhaust manifold to develop hot spots to cause the crack. The oil deposit will show up on the spark plug eletrod. It will also contribute to a lean condition. The oil will negitivly affect o2 sensor reading.
 
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