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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know if the replacement exhaust kits that Rock Auto sells (made by Walker I think) have the fittings installed for the sensors to screw into?

My muffler is shot so I figure I might as well replace the entire system.

Open to other suggestions as well. It's a 2002 Desert Runner VG33 Auto. It does need to remain emissions-compliant.

Thanks for any input.
 

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I bought some Walker exhaust pipes to replace my secondary cats on my 2004 and they were pre-drilled and threaded for down stream 02 sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is there any hope of getting those sensors out or should I just get new ones?
 

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I couldn't get mine out no matter how much penetrating oil or torque I used. I bought Bosche replacements and wired them myself.

This is what I ended up getting:

http://www.autozone.com/engine-mana...282410_170066_16521_3498_98504/?checkfit=true

You'll need two. It was easy enough to wire up and hasn't thrown any CELs since I installed them.
For reference these were the pipes I bought too:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C91FF8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C94EWY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was a real pain in the *** to get the existing pipes out. I ended up sawzalling them to get them out once I unbolted them from the headers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How hard is it going to be to get the pipes off the stock manifolds? I envision broken studs. Or should I bite the bullet and get the Doug Thorley headers? And, then I'm still faced with unbolting the old factory manifolds from an engine with almost zero clearance on each side.
 

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The best thing you can do is about a week before you pop off exhaust parts is just start hitting them daily (multiple times even) with penetrating oil and letting it soak in ( do not drive it). Then, day off, have you a torch handy (I mean acetylene, not a propane bottle) and you gotta get the bolts and nuts cherry red, then let them cool enough to not be glowing any more and slowly work at them until they come out. It's a beast on older motors and when it comes to steel bolts in aluminum heads it's just going to suck no matter which way you try it. My advice would be to take it to a mechanic and have them take everything off and then have it hauled back to your place if you want to crawl under and bolt it all back on, then use plenty of anti-sieze.....

Ask me how I know.... Those were done by the puller.... The rest that came out were done by me..... If you have bolts broken off in the head its a PITA to resolve.



 

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How hard is it going to be to get the pipes off the stock manifolds? I envision broken studs. Or should I bite the bullet and get the Doug Thorley headers? And, then I'm still faced with unbolting the old factory manifolds from an engine with almost zero clearance on each side.
When I unbolted my down stream cats from my stock headers I used a generous application of penetrating oil about 30-45 minutes prior to getting the bolts free. I used an extension and a swivel to a breaker bar and I didn't break any bolts or strip anything but as someone else said it totally varies from vehicle to vehicle. For the record I had just about 200k when I did this and everything looked completely stock. The only thing that I genuinely could not get un-seized during this whole process were the old 02 sensors, I even torqued on them after I cut the cats out for stuff and giggles and I still couldn't get them loose.

On a side note, I'm dying to do DT Headers but I'm not sure I want to pay a shop to do it. Anyone here done DT Headers on the first gens yourself? How much would need to be taken out to get to them?
 

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If you don't want secondary cats Walker sells a set of b-pipes that are a direct fit without cats, it's for the earlier model frontiers but they bolt up to later 1st gens. There's a thread about it here too with part numbers and everything, that's what I did

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
 

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If you don't want secondary cats Walker sells a set of b-pipes that are a direct fit without cats, it's for the earlier model frontiers but they bolt up to later 1st gens. There's a thread about it here too with part numbers and everything, that's what I did

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
I followed the same guide. Sold my cats for about what the Walker pipes cost too.

Here's the original thread: http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f46/walker-b-pipe-cat-delete-63791/
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I wonder if I'd be better off going to a Monro or similar and having them cut off the pipes just below the 2nd set of cats and fabricating a dual exhaust.
 

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I wonder if I'd be better off going to a Monro or similar and having them cut off the pipes just below the 2nd set of cats and fabricating a dual exhaust.
I have no idea what they would charge but you could just use a Sawzall and do it yourself. When I did it I rented a Sawzall from HomeDepot for $40 and got it all done. Or you could buy one for less from Harbor Freight.

Unless you were talking about also having them fabricate the exhaust in which case I have no input, I'm playing around with the idea of fabricating my own exhaust if I DIY my headers.
 
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