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Dyno Sheets

2268 Views 18 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  rdrfronty
Also what the heck is this thing??? Picture # 3 and what is its purpose.....


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So what are the gains wirh the cams? Also pic 3 is i think the variable
intake valve.
3 is the controller for the intake intake butterflys you hear them open around 3k
19 hp and 20 trq were total gains from CAMS, Now According to the shop I went to they said my auto trans shaved off at least 15-20hp from what a manual tranny would have produced. Never knew auto tranny's made that much difference. Ill start data logging in a few days cause my cable never came in yet. Apparently Uprev had a pretty big backorder on them. He sent it 2 days ago should be here tomorrow. NOTE: All dyno numbers were based on 91 octane and 3rd gear pulls.

3 is the controller for the intake intake butterflys you hear them open around 3k
I rele cant tell whats what anymore lol Its pretty loud when Im on it. Also I had them shut off my electronic throttlebody so Its WOT from the get Go.......
on your TQ curve you see where their is a little dip at the top but then it flattens out for a whole, thats the butterfly's opening
Im wondering if I can program it to where that valve stays open all the time? If not is there a way you know of........
I looked into it a while ago using a NX sender and there is no real point to as when it kicks in its was great power where I drove my truck. it might help in track use but for the time investment not much gain if any. your best gains now will be to lose the K&N and go a closed box intake
Ya I was thinking about that, but Ill probably get a new filter and enclose the heat shield that K&N gave me and also increasing the size of my exhaust from my 2.25 to 2.50 or2.75 cause I feel there is to much back pressure.
if your running a single pipe then 2.5 duals 2.25
Its Jba headers to stock cats, than stock piping to gutted cats, than 2 (2.25in) into y pipe into 3in magnaflow out into 2 (2.5in) outlets
hmm not sure about that set up i would run 2.25 off highflow cats to an X pipe to a 2.25 in and out muffler and out.

also is there a good drive shaft shop around you. look into getting a 1 piece driveshaft, might be able to cut some weight out there. also lower gears will help
I just got my whole rear fixed and Im not 100% sure but Im almost positive they gave me the manual 3:73 rear instead of the auto 3:36 gears...... I dunno about any good shops around here but ill look into a road trip. Im gonna do testing with out the tailgate to see what/and how much of a difference is. And if im feeling really stupid ill take off the hood lol
I put down more tq to the wheels than you :D
Dyno Sheet please :)
I think your dual 2.25" into to 3" is just fine. The only week point I see is your stock cat tubing. It looked like it narrows down to about 1.75" to me, and is the main reason I changed my cats. You remember I have all dual 2.25" tubing on my truck and I dont think it's hurting me at all. According to calculators I checked, that size should be easily safe to handle 300whp on a motor with our displacement.
So than High flow cats or I just gut them and do the other things than get re-tuned
Well, I honestly think its the primary cats surrounding tubing and angles that do the most harm. But hi-flow cats are an extra bonus. I have everything going as straight as possible and using all 2.25" tubing and all mandrel bends.
Ya man your set up is pretty sweet, I read the whole build from start to finish.
When you goin to the track! lol
Very soon, maybe tomorrow is the weather holds out. I've has alot of rain lately closing the tracks around me. Also, remember every dyno reads different. I would say your shop is pretty conservative. With the times you are running, I wouldn't worry much about your HP numbers being so-so. Your truck is putting great power AND very important, your getting it to the pavement great too. Again your times and little wheel spin is the real proof.
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