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Does anyone know of an aftermarket single-mass (convert from the OEM Dual-Mass) flywheel manufacturer/dealer?

The third OEM Clutch in my 2011 Nissan Frontier 4.0L 6-Speed is just about worn out at ~ 60,000. Only grabs right at the very end of letting out the clutch pedal, slips (RPM revs), and smells.

1st Replacement (2nd clutch/flywheel set) Nissan paid for under warranty.

2nd replacement (3rd clutch/flywheel set) they made me pay $500 for a new flywheel.

Now it needs a 4th set and I'm not convinced an OEM replacement is the best this time.

Yes, I know how to drive a manual, been doing it since 1978, and put it in Neutral when prolonged stopped at traffic lights, etc so no riding the clutch: Commercial truck driver too; regular daily driver - no towing, plowing snow, etc. I've never had a vehicle go through clutches like this before. If I have to put an OEM fdual-mass flywheel/clutch set in it this time - time to trade in for a Toyota Tacoma.
 

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when i did mine a while back i used this clutch and flywheel
jimwolftechnology

go to there site and double check the part number

PART NUMBER: LL6B0-NF000
DESCRIPTION:
FLYWHEEL 70+ L24, L26, L28, BILLET ALUMINUM, 11 LBS, FITS 225MM AND 240MM CLUTCH, ALSO FITS L20B, Z20, Z22, Z24 6 BOLT CRANKS 4 & 6...
 

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If the clutch is going out repeatedly you could get an aftermarket clutch to go on the factory flywheel that may have a bit more robust material and hold up better. That being said you are still at the risk of the fly itself failing, which is common in the dual mass flys that Nissan offers in their regular cars with a similar trans (350z, G35, 370z, etc.) so I would imagine the Frontier would probably be no different

If you move away from the dual mass just be aware that the transmission will produce a considerable amount more noise. The dual mass flywheel is damping a large amount of the noise/resonance/vibration through the driveline, so when moving away from it to a one piece, lighter flywheel the transmissions tend to get considerably louder.

In my G35 track car I run a single mass fly and removed the factory dual mass unit, the G uses a really similar trans to the frontier with the exception of the tailshaft/shifter assembly, and with the single mass unit it honestly sounds like there is a bag of small rocks rolling around in the transmission at times. Granted the trans has 250k on it, so its not the freshest ever, but on most other cars I've done single mass conversions I've noticed the same thing (some sound like slight knocking at idle which is a bit unsettling until you get used to it).

Some manufacturers do offer heavier versions of their single mass fly's to help combat that problem somewhat (I know SPEC did for a few applications) but I don't believe they make one for the Frontiers.
 
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I bought a Luk dual mass flywheel from Rock Auto for about $250 and it worked fine. People tell me that the OEM dual mass is made by Luk.

I took a look at the old OEM flywheel before it was scrapped. It did not look really worn in terms of the internal springs. I don't think DMF is your problem in needing 3 clutches in 60k miles. This wear-out rate is not normal.
 

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There is a single mass setup available, it's made by Jim Wolf Technology.

If you ask me something is being overlooked. The OEM clutch isn't known to last forever but it certainly isn't normal for three to fail in 60k. Could it be a bad master or slave cylinder? Bad hydraulic line? Bad free throw adjustment thats not being corrected? Food for thought.

I'm at 70k with my original, I use the truck offroad, tow, load up the bed etc. It's showing no signs of weakness, never any smell out of it. When it does wear out I'm going to buy a Luk dual mass flywheel and a Centerforce clutch.
 

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JIm Wolf

So after 8 years of driving my fronty ,, I still do not like the way this truck shifts ,, I have two other manual shift trucks and a few Motorcycles also that shift and drive/ride perfectly.... I've always found that the Nissan was hard to drive NORMALLY. Like just rowing throu the gears at a nice easy RPM.. because it seems like forever for the rpms to come down in between shifts.. I've always thought this was due to the Dual Mass flywheel?? oh sure if I bang shift the hell out of it its seemless and perfect... but i don't always want to drive my truck like that.. perhaps an ECM flash would help ?? I dunno ,I've just lived with it.. oh and I'm still using the same Clutch since it was new 102,000 KMS ago , and counting.
I plan to switch to a JIm wolf set-up, once the original fails.

MAC in PG
 

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So after 8 years of driving my fronty ,, I still do not like the way this truck shifts ,, I have two other manual shift trucks and a few Motorcycles also that shift and drive/ride perfectly.... I've always found that the Nissan was hard to drive NORMALLY. Like just rowing throu the gears at a nice easy RPM.. because it seems like forever for the rpms tLittleo come down in between shifts.. I've always thought this was due to the Dual Mass flywheel?? oh sure if I bang shift the hell out of it its seemless and perfect... but i don't always want to drive my truck like that.. perhaps an ECM flash would help ?? I dunno ,I've just lived with it.. oh and I'm still using the same Clutch since it was new 102,000 KMS ago , and counting.
I plan to switch to a JIm wolf set-up, once the original fails.

MAC in PG
Put a lightened or under drive crank pulley on, makes a world of difference on the revs staying high. Little cheaper than the flywheel, I used a wrp about 7 years ago, love it
 

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So after 8 years of driving my fronty ,, I still do not like the way this truck shifts ,, I have two other manual shift trucks and a few Motorcycles also that shift and drive/ride perfectly.... I've always found that the Nissan was hard to drive NORMALLY. Like just rowing throu the gears at a nice easy RPM.. because it seems like forever for the rpms to come down in between shifts.. I've always thought this was due to the Dual Mass flywheel?? oh sure if I bang shift the hell out of it its seemless and perfect... but i don't always want to drive my truck like that.. perhaps an ECM flash would help ?? I dunno ,I've just lived with it.. oh and I'm still using the same Clutch since it was new 102,000 KMS ago , and counting.
I plan to switch to a JIm wolf set-up, once the original fails.

MAC in PG
It's programmed in for emmisions reasons, I understand it can be "deleted" with a tune. If I just shift at a relaxed pace it drives beautifully. Only issue is the people behind me don't like it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've got the same problem - 65,000 on a 2011 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X and going on the 4th clutch (been driving manuals since 1978 and a licensed commercial truck driver too). Just do mostly city driving with it.
 

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jim wolf gots some good stuff for sure, thanks for the info!
It is the internet after all, but pretty sure there are a few negative reports about JWT's here at CF. Try a search fwiw.
.02
 

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I like the dual mass flywheel. I can make super smooth engagements. Have about 100K miles on my original clutch. I use my truck for truck stuff, but try to baby the clutch most of the time. No need to slip it for power, use brake to slow/stop the truck from reverse to forward, minimize hard launches...

When It comes time for a new clutch I plan on getting a LUK DMFW, but am unsure of what clutch I should get. Since I got at least 100K out of the stocker, seems like if I get another it should be good for another 100K. But I would like a tougher friction plate material so I can be a little more abusive to the clutch. I have a Kevlar plate in my car and I have beat the poop out of it and it holds up well. Wonder how the Center force clutches are. Pretty spendy, but changing a clutch is such a PITA that money spent on longer lasting parts would be worth it.

In my car I went with a RPS segmented lightweight flywheel at ~12lbs vs the stock 21lb unit, + light weight and under driven pulley,+ a lightweight 1 piece driveshaft. Made a huge difference acceleration. But the clutch engagement is a bit tricky and requires a little extra time in the friction zone. Not what I would want with my truck.
 

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Was actually just looking at a conversion kit on Amazon from southeast clutch has anyone ever seen one ran? Curious how it would perform and drive ability? Trucks daily driven as a commuter.
 

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Was actually just looking at a conversion kit on Amazon from southeast clutch has anyone ever seen one ran? Curious how it would perform and drive ability? Trucks daily driven as a commuter.
Got a link to the part? The only one I found is this one for the 4 banger.
Looks good, but really cheap. THat ol "you get what you pay for" saying might apply here.
 

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Didn't think to grab a link to it, however same company so would assume approx same quality in product. Just was the first conversion "kit" I had seen so wasn't sure if there was more company making them that was flying under the radar on me...
 

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Didn't think to grab a link to it, however same company so would assume approx same quality in product. Just was the first conversion "kit" I had seen so wasn't sure if there was more company making them that was flying under the radar on me...
Are you a i4 or v6. Do you have a link to share for the V6 if that is what you want to buy. I am collecting info one clutches as I am just about at 100K not not sure about the longevity of these units.
 

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No my truck is a 4 cylinder base model. And that's exactly what I was hoping to find was some info on someone who has done the conversion and how it affected daily driving... but I have the Amazon link I will attach for the one i was looking at.
 

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count me interested, as i need to slip the clutch getting up my slippy at times yard to unload several loads of coal yearly + doing so it gets a bit smelly. i would like a single mass + slightly better disc at a reasonable price. i did a similar switch in my 300 ft lb turbo 1.8T + it worked great. it was a quality slightly lighter flywheel but clutching was great.
 

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Does anyone know of an aftermarket single-mass (convert from the OEM Dual-Mass) flywheel manufacturer/dealer?

The third OEM Clutch in my 2011 Nissan Frontier 4.0L 6-Speed is just about worn out at ~ 60,000. Only grabs right at the very end of letting out the clutch pedal, slips (RPM revs), and smells.

1st Replacement (2nd clutch/flywheel set) Nissan paid for under warranty.

2nd replacement (3rd clutch/flywheel set) they made me pay $500 for a new flywheel.

Now it needs a 4th set and I'm not convinced an OEM replacement is the best this time.

Yes, I know how to drive a manual, been doing it since 1978, and put it in Neutral when prolonged stopped at traffic lights, etc so no riding the clutch: Commercial truck driver too; regular daily driver - no towing, plowing snow, etc. I've never had a vehicle go through clutches like this before. If I have to put an OEM fdual-mass flywheel/clutch set in it this time - time to trade in for a Toyota Tacoma.
Dude! Me too.

First one went at 7k, got it under warranty.
Second one went at 22k, paid for that and replaced it with a Centerforce.

Discussion I started is here.

 
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