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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New to the forum, need some advice. I have a 2008 Frontier SE 4x4 . LOve it LLLLOOOOVVVEEE it. Have had little to no problems with it in the 5 years Ive owned it. It recently began making a rotating squeaking sound from the rear area. Narrowed down to definitely a drive train issue. (noise stops in neutral)
The noise originally seemed to be coming from the transfer case where the pinion exits to the drive shaft. A good soaking with W-D40 made it go away for a while , months actually. The noise is now back accompanied by a slight vibration in the rear between 50 and 60 mph. Also the dose of WD-40 is not working.
Im stuck on whether to replace drive shaft as well as pinion and rear propeller all in one with U joints already on it. But was wondering what all I can replace without getting into transfer case and the pumpkin?
Does this lend itself to being a bearing issue?
Let me know what you think
Thanks
pdad

PS i have a sound file im trying to upload
 

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if you have never replaced your u joints, you should either way.
post that, see what noises are being made.

for wd40 to get in and penetrate better than the trans fluid thats already in there and circulating would be a bit of an odd one...
especially since there is no exposed bearing of any kind on the end of the shaft or on the length of it, its all sealed.


edit, im pretty sure you already made a thread like this. please stop making a bunch of threads for the same issue just because you didnt get the answer or answers you were looking for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
well Andy, my intentions were not to "post in a bunch of threads because I dint get the answer I was looking for" as you so kindly mentioned. Just wasnt sure that posting in New Member area would get the same results as the threads geared towards Drive train discussions which I found after the fact. Not sure either how the WD-40 was a factor. Maybe I soaked the U joints at the same time and dont recall.
 

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i could have been worse, trust me.

the only reason i mentioned it, is because i remember someone specifically saying change your u joints.
change your u joints.



or at least take the time to take a detailed video and upload it. You are basically asking people to diag your truck from thousands of miles away through text messages, not really a solid foundation for troubleshooting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well Andy you have clearly identified yourself as the Forum Sheriff.
You have ASSumed once again that you know my intentions, and once again you are mistaken. I can absolutely just run right out and buy and replace the first response I get but that would be foolish . Hence the reason I posed the question on the forum, knowing that one persons response to a described symptom isn't necessarily going to be exactly the same as someone who experienced the same symptom and was actually something different.I also posed a second part looking for someone with the knowledge (minus the Forum Nazi attitude) to explain what I could replace without going into the transfer case and rear end.
 

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:suicide-santa::boxing::machinegunner::chainsaw: :eek:rgy_owned:
 

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Don't worry about Andy. He means well, but has a bit of a sharp tongue/fingers. Don't get caught up on the dialog. Keep focused on the reason you posted (to fix your truck).

Change your u-joints. At least test for wear. Jack the car off the ground. Make sure the wheels spin freely. Even the most minor play means the u-joint is bad. Do not mistake pinon slop for u-joint play. When the joint first dies (and squeak) the needle bearings start to bind and you do not get play, so sometimes it is hard to tell. But you should get the squeak when you rotate the shaft. The front joints fail first and do not make noise. Change all four. I did them one after another after another until all four were changed over the course of 5K miles. Would have been easier if I just did them all at once.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm not worried...TLDR (Guarantee he did)

Thank you though for explaining that. the reason I ask about what all can be replaced w/o getting into t he case is I found a pinion,shaft, with all U joints already on for $500. Might as well do it all at once. Can the seals be replaced if I do that?
 

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I would start with spending the least amount of money and the easiest thing to check, the u-joints. Sure you could change you're entire driveshaft when it's more than likely perfectly fine for $500 or change the u-joints for around $50. Start with u-joints.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Found it...

Well with Nissan4Life's very helpful reply I am happy to say that the problem was related to a bad U-joint at the front of my rear shaft. Completely rusted out and shot. I replaced both. Followed a lot of helpful tips on-line, made sure to mark the shaft prior to removing. Also very careful to make sure the caps went on right because those needle bearing s can easily pop out and get out of place then when you press it in it screws it all up:frown:. Just added some extra grease and that held them in place.The hardest part was finding a socket short enough to get onto the 4 bolts for the drive shaft. I found one and it was all good. Thanks again.







Don't worry about Andy. He means well, but has a bit of a sharp tongue/fingers. Don't get caught up on the dialog. Keep focused on the reason you posted (to fix your truck).

Change your u-joints. At least test for wear. Jack the car off the ground. Make sure the wheels spin freely. Even the most minor play means the u-joint is bad. Do not mistake pinon slop for u-joint play. When the joint first dies (and squeak) the needle bearings start to bind and you do not get play, so sometimes it is hard to tell. But you should get the squeak when you rotate the shaft. The front joints fail first and do not make noise. Change all four. I did them one after another after another until all four were changed over the course of 5K miles. Would have been easier if I just did them all at once.
 

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Well with Nissan4Life's very helpful reply I am happy to say that the problem was related to a bad U-joint at the front of my rear shaft. Completely rusted out and shot. I replaced both. Followed a lot of helpful tips on-line, made sure to mark the shaft prior to removing. Also very careful to make sure the caps went on right because those needle bearing s can easily pop out and get out of place then when you press it in it screws it all up:frown:. Just added some extra grease and that held them in place.The hardest part was finding a socket short enough to get onto the 4 bolts for the drive shaft. I found one and it was all good. Thanks again.
And once again, the wheels on the truck go round and round.

That was pretty fast start to finish. I think the first time I heard my truck squeak till I got it fixed was 6 months or so. Since I could not feel play I was convinced it wasn't the joint. I also sprayed lube thinking that it was a seal or something squeaking. No just dry rusted steel on steel.
 

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I think you are seriously overthinking this one. Why are you going to spend $500 on parts you don't need when you can change all the u joints and solve you problem for under $100? The driveshaft is easy to remove, 4 bolts at the rear diff flange and then it slips right out of the t case. Even if you don't feel comfortable changing the actual joints themselves a shop will only charge about $100 to do them for you.

EDIT: Disregard.... Missed the 2nd page
 
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