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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to be doing all the fluid changes on my 2011 Frontier SV 4x4 King cab (auto) very soon and am hoping to clarify a few things (33k on truck). I did a lot of searching and couldn't find the exact answers i was looking for. I have a PDF of the manual, but find it vague for certain answers. I have had good luck here in the past so I'm hoping you guys can help me.

Transmission: Was planning on just draining and replacing with OEM nissan fluid. Most guys i see are having to replace around 4 quarts (not a full flush), so i was going to buy 6 to be safe. Is OEM fluid what most are using?

Is the crush washer on the drain plug critical to replace? and what are the torque settings for the drain plug bolt?

Transfer case: Similar to the transmission, is the drain plug crush washer important to replace? i can't seem to find one online if so. Torque settings for the bolt? Preferred Oil?

Rear and Front Diff: Drain plug crush washer? Again, I'm having a hard time finding these and the size. I know i could go to the dealer and find out, but there are none close to me and I'm hoping to just order everything. Torque settings for the drain plugs? Any brand oil good for this? or anything thats preferred?

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm hoping to have all the answers just in one spot so I'm ready to go when i start the process. I appreciate any responses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not sure if this will help you, but the link below is where I try to get some of my service manuals.

Index of /FSM/Frontier
That is the one i have. I just noticed it was missing the DLN pdf which has all the specs and such. I was able to grab it from the 2010 folder. Found the torque settings. Now just need to find part numbers / sizes for the crush washers. And or whether people are replacing these or not. I rarely do on my dirt bikes and have never had leaks. Just curious though. Thanks man
 

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I have never replaced a crush washer. Had no problems. Don't over torque the nuts. They're just a plug, they don't need to be super tight.
 

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I'm going to be doing all the fluid changes on my 2011 Frontier SV 4x4 King cab (auto) very soon and am hoping to clarify a few things (33k on truck). I did a lot of searching and couldn't find the exact answers i was looking for. I have a PDF of the manual, but find it vague for certain answers. I have had good luck here in the past so I'm hoping you guys can help me.

Transmission: Was planning on just draining and replacing with OEM nissan fluid. Most guys i see are having to replace around 4 quarts (not a full flush), so i was going to buy 6 to be safe. Is OEM fluid what most are using?

Is the crush washer on the drain plug critical to replace? and what are the torque settings for the drain plug bolt?

Transfer case: Similar to the transmission, is the drain plug crush washer important to replace? i can't seem to find one online if so. Torque settings for the bolt? Preferred Oil?

Rear and Front Diff: Drain plug crush washer? Again, I'm having a hard time finding these and the size. I know i could go to the dealer and find out, but there are none close to me and I'm hoping to just order everything. Torque settings for the drain plugs? Any brand oil good for this? or anything thats preferred?

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm hoping to have all the answers just in one spot so I'm ready to go when i start the process. I appreciate any responses.
Auto-Trans fluid-MATIC-S 999MPMTS00P 10-7/8pt $list 10.99 a QT or you can do Valvoline Maxlife SYN

Manu-trans Fluid-75w-85 6-1/8pt

You dont need to replace crush washer on diff or trany they are alum/washers with 33k on you truck you should be ok.

T-case you can use regular 3qt ATF if you want to go cheap if not you can use MATIC-D 999MPAA100P list-$7.49 a QT Specs on torque=SNUG lol

Front Diff (r180)and rear Diff (c200) should be 75W90 or API GL-5 SYN gear oil
Fill till full no crush washer alum-washer. torque till snug.
 

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Nissan instructs to replace the crush washers. Many do not, but I always do. The auto trans pan drain plug washer is the same as the oil pan drain plug washer, Nissan 11026-01M02. Since I have 3 Nissan trucks, I buy these on Ebay by the bag full as they are cheap. They come in bags of 5, 10, 20, etc. The aluminum crush washers on the diffs and transfer case are Nissan 11026-4N200. I had to get these from Nissan last time. Torque for drain plugs is usually around 26 ft/lbs. Do not mix up the fill and drain plugs on the transfer case, as the drain plug has a magnet.
Any synthetic 75W90 gear oil will work fine on the diffs; I use Walmart's SuperTech full-synthetic or Mobil One.
Nissan's Type "J" and "S" ATFs are made by Castrol and is the same as Castrol Transmax Import Multi-vehicle ATF. Most synthetic ATFs meet the JASO-A1 specification and will work in Type "J" and "S" applications, just make sure they say they are recommended for said applications. I use Valvoline Maxlife ATF in the transmission and the transfer case. You can get a 1-gallon jug of it at Walmart for $17.50. I replace the trans, transfer case and diff oils at 60,000 mile intervals. 30,000 mile intervals on synthetic transmission and gear oils is a bit overkill, but that's just my opinion. Nissan doesn't even give a replacement interval for them; it just says to inspect every 15,000 miles. Of course, how you use your truck plays into that, as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nissan instructs to replace the crush washers. Many do not, but I always do. The auto trans pan drain plug washer is the same as the oil pan drain plug washer, Nissan 11026-01M02. Since I have 3 Nissan trucks, I buy these on Ebay by the bag full as they are cheap. They come in bags of 5, 10, 20, etc. The aluminum crush washers on the diffs and transfer case are Nissan 11026-4N200. I had to get these from Nissan last time. Torque for drain plugs is usually around 26 ft/lbs. Do not mix up the fill and drain plugs on the transfer case, as the drain plug has a magnet.
Any synthetic 75W90 gear oil will work fine on the diffs; I use Walmart's SuperTech full-synthetic or Mobil One.
Nissan's Type "J" and "S" ATFs are made by Castrol and is the same as Castrol Transmax Import Multi-vehicle ATF. Most synthetic ATFs meet the JASO-A1 specification and will work in Type "J" and "S" applications, just make sure they say they are recommended for said applications. I use Valvoline Maxlife ATF in the transmission and the transfer case. You can get a 1-gallon jug of it at Walmart for $17.50. I replace the trans, transfer case and diff oils at 60,000 mile intervals. 30,000 mile intervals on synthetic transmission and gear oils is a bit overkill, but that's just my opinion. Nissan doesn't even give a replacement interval for them; it just says to inspect every 15,000 miles. Of course, how you use your truck plays into that, as well.
Thanks for the great info man. This helps a lot. So its safe to say that using the Castrol on a drain and fill would be all good? Since I'm not doing a full flush, its ok to mix the Castrol in with whatever was in there stock. I know thats essentially what you were saying in your original post, but i just like to confirm to make myself feel better:serious:
 

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Yes, the Castrol Transmax Import Multi-vehicle is the same as the factory fill. Don't be surprised if the ATF drains out looking a dark brown color; it seems to be a characteristic of the Nissan-matic Type "J" and "S" ATFs. FYI, Nissan-matic Type "S" ATF is just Type "J" ATF with added friction modifiers that is required by the Nissan 7-speed automatic transmission used in the Infiniti SUVs. Type "S" replaced Type "J." One thing I noticed from using Valvoline Maxlife ATF on my R51 Pathfinders is that after a couple of services, the ATF now drains a cherry red color, instead of dark brown. Also, the fluid on the dipstick looks red, as well, instead of the almost colorless look of the genuine Nissan ATF. Performance is the same after a combined total of over 200,000 miles between two Pathfinders using Maxlife ATF.
 

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Hey can you use Castrol multi import atf in the transfer case? I thought the transfer case called for dex 3. Not meaning to hijack the thread! Thanks.
 

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My '12 got 4 qtsish of Nissan Matic "S " in the trans(bought 6 qts off ebay) T-case got Mobil 1 ATF and diffs got M1 75/90 both from Auto Zone. I did not replace any crushwashers And I NEVER overtighten!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I called stealership on the Matic D for the T case, they said they only use D for warranties and everyone else gets Dexron from the bulk drum. Have fun saving money!
 

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I always anneal the crush washers (copper and alum) and reuse until they flatten out and the diameter is too small on the ID to easily come off the bolt. Has been working fine for years on all vehicles.

Sometimes if they have a big lip from the area that gets crushed 'into' the hole, I just sand it off with some 800+ grit sandpaper.

Never had any leaks with this method.

To anneal copper, heat them up with a torch until cherry red and then immediately quench in water.
To anneal aluminum, the temp is much lower or it will melt. A trick is to apply dish soap and when it bubbles off, that's enough heat. Immediately quench.

I would not recommend reusing the same hardened washers without annealing or replacing, as it will either leak or you'll over-tighten to seal it.
 

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I have never changed any crush washer nor has any of my Nissans ever leaked from the drain plug, currently on #16 with three in the driveway currently.
It's been discussed here often and goes both ways.

Clint
 
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