[Haystack1234]

I took my truck into the mechanic today and I'm wondering what's yalls opinions on this.
Background on me: I know cars, not a lot but I can do more then the average kid. I know basic maintenance plus a little bit. I know when I should put red flags up when a mechanic tells me something.
Background on my truck: 2000 Nissan frontier 2wd v6 3.3 king cab. 145000 miles. I bought it a few mouths ago. CEL came on and the code was p0600 I believe. as well as another code. I replaced the EGR valve and that fixed one code. the other code was a fuel leak code. not worried about it. the past month I have been suspecting a wheel bearing going out(front driver) as well as a ball joint(same side) due to bad squeaking when turning and bumps.

I went to the mechanic complaining of wheel bearing noise and front end squeaking and I suspected it to be the ball joints.

mechanic said the bearings are going out. the couldn't find the front end squeak but the rear leaves squeak (normal for a 16Y/o truck). they found other stuff too. a oil leak (didn't say from where). Stabilizer bar bushings and end links worn out. tires are feathering and should replace all shocks. and a wheel alignment with tie rod replacement.

There was nothing said about the obvious CEL. strange? as well as the front end squeaking (one of my original complaints)

All this to be replaced would be $1000 to replace for labor, no parts cost. I know my bearings need replacing(moaning sound) and my tie rod ends(lots of wheel wobble and truck is all over the road). but what about the other stuff?

the red flags went up when they said nothing about the front end squeak, and when the said nothing about the CEL light. soo. what's your thoughts? should I trust the guys or does it seem shady?

Please if you have any questions with what I said just ask, I have a very hard time getting my point across. any info helps. thank you

 

[glamisdude]

When in doubt, get a 2nd opinion. But don't mention that it's 2nd opinion to the next shop until after they are done. This will tell you if the first guy was being honest.

The fact that they missed the CEL is a bit odd, usually that's first thing they come tell me when I bring mine in.

Missing the squeak could be a few things: could have forgot, assumed that it came from one of the many worn parts identified, could not have be able to reproduce, etc

But none of what they suggested seems unnecessary. At 145k those are all things I'd expect to be worn. The tire wear is probably from the combo of all those parts being worn out. $1000 labor seems a bit much to me, but then I do most everything myself. All the parts listed would be long day/ weekend project that you could do in your driveway for about what they want in labor. Shocks figure about $150-400, tie rods $50-100, Wheel Bearings $150-300, Ball joints $15-50ea, Alignment $50-100
So figure between $500-1100 for everything if you bought the parts and did it yourself.

 

[The other Sean]

Not sure how it goes around your part of the world, but some shops are going to look at an older vehicle in a different eye than a newer one. Unless it's a safety issue, they may only bring up what you asked about. I quit going to the last shop I used to use after the guy came at me with $4500 worth of things on my 12 year old $1500 truck when all I asked for was an oil change and a code scan. I looked the list over, said "so none of this is safety related? no? lets not do any of it then." and left with my truck.

But yes, nothing wrong with a second opinion.

 

[daveEM]

Sounds like a fair bit of work on your old truck. Shop probably over $100 an hour (rent, taxes, employees, etc.).

 

[chrisexv6]

All of the stuff they diagnosed you with is probably perfectly valid. its all stuff Ive had to do to my 2001 V6 4WD, and mine only has 75K miles on it (rubber and things that have seals will die with age, not just mileage)

If you figure 80-100 per hour of labor, they are quoting 10-12 hours of labor. Ive done most of the things you listed and I dont quite see 10 hours of labor in them, but they might also be going by a flat rate book. Getting a second opinion is an excellent suggestion. But honestly if you are handy enough, the sway bar end links arent too hard to do, even the shocks aren't bad. You'll mostly have to deal with rusted bolts and nuts but the actual replacement of the parts is simple.

 

[gliznass]

It is about time for the valve cover gaskets to be replaced. That was the one and only oil leak I had on my 2004 vg33. Happened at about 140k mi.

 

[luke9511]

i agree with the others get a second opinion and as for the fuel leak, i would try this

Genuine Nissan Gas Tank Fuel Filler Cap Altima Frontier Xterra 200SX New | eBay

i had the same issue with the gas cap and bought a new nissan one and havent had an issue since

 

[Haystack1234]

thanks for the helps guys. little update here

I took it to my local Nissan dealership. they are replacing my recalled fuel tank and exterior lighting... FOR FREE::grin::

but because of the language barrier (I'm in Germany with the us air force) I don't think the dude at the dealer ship really understood my problems I was explaining. but I have an appointment there and he said he would give it a full walk-through.

that being said I might try and tackle some of this stuff myself, tie rod and wheel bearings and shocks. I'm only an E-3 in the military, with a wife.... so I don't have much money ::laugh:: where do you guys find good deals on Nissan parts? ive ordered my EGR valve from 1A Auto and it was about 115 with shipping.

 

[PIYIRIO]

I don't have much money ::laugh:: where do you guys find good deals on Nissan parts? ive ordered my EGR valve from 1A Auto and it was about 115 with shipping.

I've had good luck on Amazon and eBay. It's usually 1/4 - 1/2 for what I'd pay locally for the exact same part brand and all. That also makes the genuine OEM part affordable so I usually go with that.

 

[Ninety-9 SE-L]

Shocks are the most expensive part, tie rod ends, bearings, and other various suspension parts, you're looking at about $750 for parts, plus markup.

Labor is on the expensive side, for a competent shop, it should be about 5 to 6 hours of work. That's about how long it would take me, and I don't even have a bearing press.

 

[Haystack1234]

Question. as for wheel bearings and hubs. I cant find any hub assemblies with the bearings that fit my truck. can I use a newer year model or some other hub?
or is it easy enough to press out the bearings and replace them

 

[Blue Devil]

Germany jealous

2000 NISSAN FRONTIER 3.3L V6 Wheel Bearing | RockAuto

Since your 2wd I believe the front wheel bearings are just the conical ones they don't press in just seat them to a certain torque and back off the big nut a 1/4 turn and install the cotter pin.

Consult your service manual, I'm just speaking from experience with other 2wd vehicles.

Thanks for your service,

USAF Ret MSgt

 

[kevinjohnson3216]

Not sealed or pressed bearings like you're thinking

These are tapered roller bearings (inner and outer) with races pressed into the hub. There's a seal in the back of the hub.

You need to pack them with wheel bearing grease.

Check YouTube or similar.

There's a special socket for the 2wd spindle nut available at parts stores, or you can use two punches in the holes and move the nut with a pry bar. That's what I do. I have the same truck as you and I have done the job on my truck a few times so if you have any questions I can probably answer them

It's simple after the first time


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[Haystack1234]

so I would need to press out the races for the bearings? and would I need to buy that seal aswell as the inner/outer bearings?

nice to see a fellow usaf dude on here. what was your job in the usaf?

from what ive seen a read up on my truck is there is something you have to press in. I think its the races to the bearings. but I am going to confirm that because I don't have a press here. on my truck I don't have the typical wheel nut, it has 2 holes to put a locking pin in it and turn it, similar to a nut to hold on a grinding wheel.

 

[Haystack1234]

RockAuto

so if I'm going at this correctly this should be all I need for wheel bearings

 

[The other Sean]

so I would need to press out the races for the bearings? and would I need to buy that seal aswell as the inner/outer bearings?

nice to see a fellow usaf dude on here. what was your job in the usaf?

from what ive seen a read up on my truck is there is something you have to press in. I think its the races to the bearings. but I am going to confirm that because I don't have a press here. on my truck I don't have the typical wheel nut, it has 2 holes to put a locking pin in it and turn it, similar to a nut to hold on a grinding wheel.

While not 100% "correct", over the years I have simply put the new bearings on the old races quite a few times. The only time I have put new races in was when I was installing a new set of rotors. Like I said, not 100% correct, But, most times you will be fine. Proper grease and seals is going to be more important than the races.

 

[kevinjohnson3216]

so I would need to press out the races for the bearings? and would I need to buy that seal aswell as the inner/outer bearings?

nice to see a fellow usaf dude on here. what was your job in the usaf?

from what ive seen a read up on my truck is there is something you have to press in. I think its the races to the bearings. but I am going to confirm that because I don't have a press here. on my truck I don't have the typical wheel nut, it has 2 holes to put a locking pin in it and turn it, similar to a nut to hold on a grinding wheel.

No press needed

I use a punch to pound out the races and I use my bearing/race installer set (basically aluminum disc with a handle) to drive the new ones in. You could also use a brass punch, or something soft and hit it with the hammer evenly to drive them in.

Yes you need the seal, inner/outer bearings and races, rotors, and wheel bearing grease. You'll need to look up on YouTube how to pack a wheel bearing by hand.

Your spindle nut should be a special nut without flats like a hex head. It will have two lock screws (Phillips)

You either buy the special socket or you grab two punches. Stick the punches in each hole. Hold them there and then take a pry bar and put it in between the two punches, using that as leverage to turn the punches.

You can also set the bearing preload like this, no torque wrench necessary. I just go until I cant go anymore, while turning the hub, and then back off 60 degrees.

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[Haystack1234]

Yes you need the seal, inner/outer bearings and races, rotors, and wheel bearing grease. You'll need to look up on YouTube how to pack a wheel bearing by hand.


so let me get this straight. the race is the part that the will ride the hub, and the rotor is the actual bearing part?

 

[kevinjohnson3216]

The whole long explanation I typed out somehow got deleted so I'll have to do it again later.

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[Haystack1234]

hmm. I can still see it. that's weird