Nissan Frontier Forum banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
2002 Nissan Frontier SE KC 4x4, 3.3 (non sc) 5-Speed. 3” lift. 285/75R16.
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all. Tomorrow I will be doing the brakes on my 02 Frontier 4x4 king cab. More specifically, I will be doing the rear shoes and spring kit and the front pads and rotors. Have all the necessary parts and tools to complete the job and from what I’ve seen, it doesn’t look too complex (especially the rear). Anybody who’s done their own brakes have any advice to offer before I dive in??? Thanks!
 

·
Registered
2004 Nissan Frontier XE KC KA24DE
Joined
·
4,189 Posts
Make sure to not get any caliper grease on the brake contact surfaces on the new shoes and pads.
Work on one side at a time on the rears. You can reference the other side if you get confused on reassembly.
And burnish them properly after installing and adjusting.
And bleed following the procedures in the FSM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,640 Posts
Always flush your brake lines when replacing friction. Flush until the fluid is clear. I use clear tubing to see the brake fluid coming out. If you don't flush now, you'll never do it. Be careful of fluid level in master cyl as you don't want air to get in.

There are raised pads on the rear backing plate which the shoes rub against. Clean and lube with grease. It will keep them quiet.

Note the orientation of the rear adjuster wheel, which end is which. The adjuster comes apart for cleaning and lube.

Take pics with your phone as you disassemble, especially spring orientation.

For the fronts, always loosen the bleeder screw before compressing caliper piston. You never want fluid from the calipers getting pushed up into your ABS pump or master cylinder. Let it drain out the bleeder.

Wear a good dust mask, especially on the rears.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,850 Posts
Make sure you have the grease seals that go on the front hubs and have the tool to toque the lock nut. OTC 7698 or similar tool will work.

316167
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,113 Posts
I was thinking about doing my drums but when i saw that the brake shoes outlast the truck itself even if you have 500k on them they're still good. I've seen multiple reports where people had like 250-300k and the shoes were only half gone. So i decided against it. I haven't popped the drums off to look either. Have you had a look at your shoes? Does it really need them or are you doing this just because. I may end up doing them just because too at some point as well tho.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
472 Posts
I did my rear drums about 6 months ago. Truck has 178k miles on it. Original drums were out of spec and the shoes were unevenly worn and almost down to bare metal.

Suggestion for the OP though, doing brakes on this truck is like doing brakes on any other vehicle. This was my first time attempting drum brake service as all my previous vehicles had disc brakes all around. I just made sure to take the drum off both rears and worked on one side and used the other side as a reference. I replaced all the springs and minor accessories in there while I was at it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,113 Posts
I did my rear drums about 6 months ago. Truck has 178k miles on it. Original drums were out of spec and the shoes were unevenly worn and almost down to bare metal.
WOW, ok, now you're making me want to have a look at mine. Were you having any noticeable issues before took the drums off?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,713 Posts
Make sure to not get any caliper grease on the brake contact surfaces on the new shoes and pads.
Work on one side at a time on the rears. You can reference the other side if you get confused on reassembly.
Above. I'nly done 2WD rears, but in general:
Use two 8mm x 1.25mm bolts about 50mm long to help extract the drums.
I generally re-use the drums without remachining, if they look good.
I don't bleed the brakes unless I open up the hydraulics.
I use Wagner Thermo Quiet shoes and pads on all my vehicles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
472 Posts
WOW, ok, now you're making me want to have a look at mine. Were you having any noticeable issues before took the drums off?
I in fact did. I had a mushy brake pedal and I was going to bleed the brakes. I figure, I may as well just replace the pads, rotors, drums, and shoes since the initial bite when braking sucked(which also attributed to the mushy brake pedal as well as cheap brake pads).
 

·
Registered
2002 Nissan Frontier SE KC 4x4, 3.3 (non sc) 5-Speed. 3” lift. 285/75R16.
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Get new rear wheel cylinders if you do the rear brakes. Unless you want to do the brake over again in 2 weeks.
Good to know! May I ask why? Didn’t even get to the rear brakes today... I’ll explain why in my next post. Truck will be spending the weekend on the lift.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,113 Posts
The cylinders are just that. Little cylinders in the drum that have a piston in it that pressurizes the brakes. Just like your disc brakes use a piston in the caliper to compress the brakes - so does your drums

Get them. They're only like 10 bucks.

Get a complete rebuild kit for your drums. Springs, Shoes, Cyliders, everything. I think it was like 75 bucks to rebuild my drums when i priced it on Rock Auto a few months ago.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
Wheel cylinders go bad and leak after a while. Then you have brake fluid all over your new shoes (brake that is, not your Jordans). Seems when you do a drum brake change, it moves the wheel cylinders to a spot they don't normally run in and they then leak. Trust me on this..
 

·
Registered
2002 Nissan Frontier SE KC 4x4, 3.3 (non sc) 5-Speed. 3” lift. 285/75R16.
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
(DIY BRAKE JOB UPDATE!!!)
So I do intend on doing my rear brakes and bleeding the brakes as well, however I didn’t get to any of that today. In fact, truck will be spending the weekend on the lift. Completed the front passenger side but have a hang up on the drivers side. The hub assembly itself came off just fine but the fixed cam assembly that sits behind it blasted out of there instead of just gently sliding off like the passenger side. Upon further inspection, I realized that the spring and plastic retaining ring of the fixed cam assembly were damaged (not sure if it’s something I did wrong or if it was pre-existing damage).

Anyway I ran all over town trying to find a replacement part. Had guys telling me that my only choice was to switch out for manual hubs. Others were saying that my only choice was to buy a whole new hub assembly because the fixed cam assembly isn’t sold separately. I then made the dreaded call to my local Nissan dealership and they confirmed that Nissan never made a replacement part for that, and I would have to buy a whole new hub assembly for $325.

I ended up calling the junk yard and they have 3 hub assembly’s in stock but they are still on the trucks and by the time I called, it was too late for them to start pulling it off. I will have to wait until Monday to get it. Grand total of $50. As soon as I get all that cleared up, I will move on to the rear brakes and finish off with the bleed process.

In case anyone is wondering, front pads and rotors I went Power Stop Evolution. Rear shoes are Wagner Premium with spring kit from AC Delco. Right now the shoes and spring kit are all I have for the rears. Anything else I should plan on getting or replacing while I’m back there? Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,113 Posts
I can tell you this. I bought some Drilled and Slotted Rotors a couple years back and WOW. They work great. It's the best braking upgrade you can do for these trucks. The Brakes are Sub Par to begin with. I definitely got a good 30% increase in braking power. I switched to Ceramic pads too. I get hardly any dust from them.

Drilled & Slotted Rotors tho, Win Win
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
Brake hoses if you have to tear it apart enough to bleed the brakes. Cheap assurance to no future problems. Brake hoses collapse over time and can cause brakes to hang up. I never change a front caliper without changing hoses. And there's only one for the rear brakes. Hey, I'm here to spend your money. Haha!
 

·
Registered
2002 Nissan Frontier SE KC 4x4, 3.3 (non sc) 5-Speed. 3” lift. 285/75R16.
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Brake hoses if you have to tear it apart enough to bleed the brakes. Cheap assurance to no future problems. Brake hoses collapse over time and can cause brakes to hang up. I never change a front caliper without changing hoses. And there's only one for the rear brakes. Hey, I'm here to spend your money. Haha!
Haha! Hey thanks for all the advice. I appreciate it. You’re here to spend my money like our Oregon Gov. Kate Brown is trying to keep me from making any! Let the president do his job and open up the damn economy already!
 
  • Like
Reactions: RamTest

·
Registered
2002 Nissan Frontier SE KC 4x4, 3.3 (non sc) 5-Speed. 3” lift. 285/75R16.
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I can tell you this. I bought some Drilled and Slotted Rotors a couple years back and WOW. They work great. It's the best braking upgrade you can do for these trucks. The Brakes are Sub Par to begin with. I definitely got a good 30% increase in braking power. I switched to Ceramic pads too. I get hardly any dust from them.

Drilled & Slotted Rotors tho, Win Win
Yeah the pads I got are ceramic. Looks like I’ll be doing drilled and slotted rotors next time I replace them!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,113 Posts
Yeah, i was skeptical about them at first. Everybody was saying 25-30% increase. Tried them myself and definitely got what everybody was saying i'd get.. They're a little more pricey but for $125 its not bad especially considering the extra braking power you get.

These are the ones i got if anybody is interested:
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top