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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I took my truck in for the timing chain whine. I took off most of my mods that I could undo without too much trouble. Anyways, I left my crank & PS pulleys on and my headers and cat-back.

Anyways they just called me and told me they were having trouble getting the crank bolt out! That's a little weird I think. I had trouble getting it off too though. They're the dealer, they have the tools and experience. How could it be a problem for them?

When I installed the pulley, I used the advice here in the forums and the Nissan service manual. It says something like 30 ft-lbs and then an additional 60 degrees. 60 degrees is 1/6 of 360 so it's like turning a bolt corner to where the last corner used to be. I'm pretty sure I'm right about that.

They said they wouldn't have honored my warranty if they knew about it before hand, but they're going to straighten it out provided they don't break it getting the bolt out. If they break it I guess I'm straight up F*****.

I guess I should have gone with my gut on taken the time to take it off myself. Now I'm sitting here waiting to hear good news (I hope).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm hoping someone can weigh in on the torque issue so I can rest a little easier. The nissan spec is 32 ft-lbs plus 60 degrees which is 1/6 of a turn, right?. I reused the same bolt, should I have replaced it? They called it quits and are going to try to get it off tomorrow. They are letting it soak (I guess they are using penetrating oil).
 

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They need to make sure they are using an impact gun with enough Tq. A member on here had the issue where his gun wasn't strong enough to get it loose. I believe Brutal uses something like a 500ft lb gun that works well. I am still amazed they said they are going to keep with the warranty. I would figure they would have blamed it on the pulley and said your SOL.

That is the correct TQ spec. Also, since you are a manual, did they place it in 4th or 5th gear to prevent the motor from turning while trying to un-do the crank bolt?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the reply. If they can't do it I guess I'll have to have them put it back together and then uninstall it myself with the impact gun I used. I used a cheaper one from home depot driven off an air compressor.

They were familiar with the timing chain issue and have done it before. They didn't even need to listen to my truck before they agreed to fix it.

Anyways hopefully they get it off and all is well, if not maybe I'm liable for some labor cost and I'll have to put the original back on myself (lightly torqued) and have them go at the chain tensioners again. I'm at a loss how I got it tight enough that they can't get it off.

Has anyone taken off their WRP crank pulley? Maybe the bolt sank into the aluminum? The original pulley is steel. I'm just speculating here, until I have to deal with it or they get it done.
 

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...Maybe the bolt sank into the aluminum? The original pulley is steel. I'm just speculating here, until I have to deal with it or they get it done.
^ya did use the washer.. right? (nevermnd.. never done a CP.)

I doubt the dealer guys' would'nt have a Snap-on, Mac, IR air gun between them running @ 100+psi.
G/L!

add/edit:
Step 1 : 44.1 N·m (4.5 kg-m, 33 ft-lb)
Step 2 :84° - 90° degrees clockwise
 

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I had the same problem when Napa Nissan (Napa, Ca) did my timing chains. They couldn't get it off. They had to borrow a 5 ft. breaker bar and had to hold onto the crank with the holes. It effed up my pulley a little but they got it off. I was lucky, they are very mod friendly at Napa Nissan. At turned out OK. I felt bad for them, they lost a half a day working on my truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
^ya did use the washer.. right?

I doubt the dealer guys' would'nt have a Snap-on, Mac, IR air gun between them running @ 100+psi.

G/L!

add/edit:
Step 1 : 44.1 N·m (4.5 kg-m, 33 ft-lb)
Step 2 :84° - 90° degrees clockwise
No washer, it's a collar bolt that's on there, like most of the bolts and nuts on the truck. I did reuse it though. And I only did 60° from the 33 ft-lbs.

Should I tell them to place a breaker bar against the frame and bump the starter? :crikey:
 

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Since you are a manual, I would advise again the breaker bar trick. It works for autos but manuals, a good TQ gun works better.

I wonder thou, would a heat gun on that area for some time help the situation. I remember when I installed mine, I did it when the motor was still warm. Cold metal contracts and will cause more friction.

Let us know how it goes.
 

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They need to make sure they are using an impact gun with enough Tq. A member on here had the issue where his gun wasn't strong enough to get it loose. I believe Brutal uses something like a 500ft lb gun that works well. I am still amazed they said they are going to keep with the warranty. I would figure they would have blamed it on the pulley and said your SOL.

That is the correct TQ spec. Also, since you are a manual, did they place it in 4th or 5th gear to prevent the motor from turning while trying to un-do the crank bolt?
I USE A INGERSOLL RAND 2131 COMPOSIT IMPACT GUN @WORK, 600FTLBS IN REVERSE, QUIET AND LIGHTWEIGHT. AND IF THAT DOESNT GET IT OUT YOU CAN PULL OUT A TORCH..MANY GUYS HERE HAVE LOUDER AND HEAVIER(THUNDER GUNS) THAT WONT TAKE OUT STUFF MINE DOES. I INSTALLED 4 CRANK PULLEYS FOR PEOPLE HERE AND NEVER HAD AN ISSUE TAKING OUT THE BOLT, AND NO NEED TO LOCK ENGINE EITHER. CALL EM BACK AND TELL THEM TO USE A REAL GUN
 

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I'm surprised their honoring the warranty. Awesome dealership for not giving up on you! If i were behind the desk, my excuse for the chain whine would be the pulleys, LOL! This is why i didn't buy any pulleys from wr*, because i've gone through my 3rd belt/tensioner...
 

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I USE A INGERSOLL RAND 2131 COMPOSIT IMPACT GUN @WORK, 600FTLBS IN REVERSE, QUIET AND LIGHTWEIGHT. AND IF THAT DOESNT GET IT OUT YOU CAN PULL OUT A TORCH..MANY GUYS HERE HAVE LOUDER AND HEAVIER(THUNDER GUNS) THAT WONT TAKE OUT STUFF MINE DOES. I INSTALLED 4 CRANK PULLEYS FOR PEOPLE HERE AND NEVER HAD AN ISSUE TAKING OUT THE BOLT, AND NO NEED TO LOCK ENGINE EITHER. CALL EM BACK AND TELL THEM TO USE A REAL GUN
Thats he impact i have and i have never looked back - that gun is FANTASTIC...
 

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Since you are a manual, I would advise again the breaker bar trick. It works for autos but manuals, a good TQ gun works better.

I wonder thou, would a heat gun on that area for some time help the situation. I remember when I installed mine, I did it when the motor was still warm. Cold metal contracts and will cause more friction.

Let us know how it goes.
it works just fine on manuals... Just put it in neutral and bump the starter... It will pop loose... Thats how I had to do mine when I changer the T-belt
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well they gave up on it. They did fix my two recalls though, the front crash sensor and the vehicle immobilizer.

I'll have to straighten out the pulley when I have time. I have no doubts that I will be able to take it off. This all accumulated to a bunch of wasted time.

They also told me I have 60,000 miles to fix the timing chain and that my particular case isn't that bad.
 
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